Difficult Distributor Removal
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Difficult Distributor Removal
Help, I can't get it out! WD and Pblaster doesn't work. Tapping, prying, and belt wrench doesn't budge it. What to try next, am I missing something?
And just in case, how do I mark it for reinstall if I do luck up and get it removed?
And just in case, how do I mark it for reinstall if I do luck up and get it removed?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
Difficult Distributor Removal
Before you remove it, turn the engine to #1 TDC. The rotor will point to #1 plug wire. Just put it back with the rotor pointing the same way, provided you didn't turn the motor while it's out.
BTW, why do you want to remove it?
Maybe someone else has some ideas for removing it, I would be doing just what you are.
BTW, why do you want to remove it?
Maybe someone else has some ideas for removing it, I would be doing just what you are.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 2,297
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From: Indiana
Difficult Distributor Removal
crawlfish
Patience will prevail. And a little
Do you have another distributor housing if you trash your existing one, trying to get it loose? If so get a little rougher with it.
I don't know how long you have let it set with penetrating oil on it. But if you can, let it soak a few days. Give it a fresh spray every day.
Patience will prevail. And a little
Do you have another distributor housing if you trash your existing one, trying to get it loose? If so get a little rougher with it.
I don't know how long you have let it set with penetrating oil on it. But if you can, let it soak a few days. Give it a fresh spray every day.
Last edited by Superdave; Sep 17, 2003 at 11:52 PM.
New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 19
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Difficult Distributor Removal
I had the same problem pulling the distributor from my 77 351M....turned out the oil pump drive shaft was cattywampus and not aligned correctly when it was previously installed. Had to destroy the distributor to get it out...good thing I was replacing it.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Difficult Distributor Removal
Thanks for all the good replies! I especially like the graphics, very appropriate for my mood while trying to get it out.
Well, it's my first distributor removal and I'm taking it out because I'm wanting to rebuild the motor.
I guess I could trash it if I have to, but was going to try to salvage it though the motor was so mistreated that I suspect the distributor needs replacing as well.
I soaked it for three days. I'll try the Pblaster stuff again.... it seems to penetrate better and is preferred by many in these parts.
As to aligning to no. 1 cylinder I'll do that. I guess then I'll mark rotor position with white paint against the distributor case and the case to the block for reinstall if I do get it out?
Good advice on the anti-seize, I will keep that in mind, wish the guy who put it in had known about ford truck enthusiasts, huh!
I might wait until tomorrow to try again in case I get other suggestions. For the situation where the oil pump was installed incorrectly, can't I help that by removing it? The pan's off.
Well, it's my first distributor removal and I'm taking it out because I'm wanting to rebuild the motor.
I guess I could trash it if I have to, but was going to try to salvage it though the motor was so mistreated that I suspect the distributor needs replacing as well.
I soaked it for three days. I'll try the Pblaster stuff again.... it seems to penetrate better and is preferred by many in these parts.
As to aligning to no. 1 cylinder I'll do that. I guess then I'll mark rotor position with white paint against the distributor case and the case to the block for reinstall if I do get it out?
Good advice on the anti-seize, I will keep that in mind, wish the guy who put it in had known about ford truck enthusiasts, huh!
I might wait until tomorrow to try again in case I get other suggestions. For the situation where the oil pump was installed incorrectly, can't I help that by removing it? The pan's off.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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Difficult Distributor Removal
If the pan is off you can spray some PB blaster in from that side. The distributor seal keeps the PB etc from reaching under the seal. You could also push on the distributor from below. I don't know how much pressure you can put on that shaft tho.
Use Anti seize EVERY time you have aluminum next to iron or steel. Aluminum is corrosive as hell, very nasty stuff. I use all stainless steel fasteners with AS every time I have to go into or thru aluminum.
Use Anti seize EVERY time you have aluminum next to iron or steel. Aluminum is corrosive as hell, very nasty stuff. I use all stainless steel fasteners with AS every time I have to go into or thru aluminum.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Difficult Distributor Removal
Torque1st, thanks for idea about spraying from underneath.
When I posted the question I didn't know whether one could visually/physically access the distributor from below (free access or whatever).
I've now removed the oil pump and the distributor drive to oil pump shaft but I still have the motor on the lift so I'll put it on the stand and roll it over now. I'll see if I can get something over the distributor bottom piece to help lift or tap on the seal portion only.
I'm willing to sacrifice the distributor if I have to, otherwise if I'm successful I'll be posting questions about inspecting the distributor for wear, but that's a bit optimistic right now
When I posted the question I didn't know whether one could visually/physically access the distributor from below (free access or whatever).
I've now removed the oil pump and the distributor drive to oil pump shaft but I still have the motor on the lift so I'll put it on the stand and roll it over now. I'll see if I can get something over the distributor bottom piece to help lift or tap on the seal portion only.
I'm willing to sacrifice the distributor if I have to, otherwise if I'm successful I'll be posting questions about inspecting the distributor for wear, but that's a bit optimistic right now
Last edited by crawlfish; Sep 19, 2003 at 07:32 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 187
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From: North Alabama
Difficult Distributor Removal
Drill a small hole at the base where the flange and the motor meet. This hole will let the PB Blaster penetrate past the dried up o-ring. The only bad thing is, you will have to flush all the metal filings out of the motor. This was my last result after a week of frustration.
Hopes this helps.....grif95
Hopes this helps.....grif95
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Difficult Distributor Removal
Alright, looks like lost cause from the recent posts. I didn't get to banging on it today, but I did get the motor on the stand.
I'll mess with it tomorrow, get a little more aggressive and will keep in mind the tips including drilling at the base...
I checked on prices and a stock single vacuum is not too pricey, but pricier than dual vacuum [why?]. The higher spark performance types are upwards of $200.
I'm not racing so unless there was some absolutely big benefit to warrant the big price I'll go with the stock unit and probably single vacuum which is only ten dollars more and the parts guy said it's better.
I'll mess with it tomorrow, get a little more aggressive and will keep in mind the tips including drilling at the base...
I checked on prices and a stock single vacuum is not too pricey, but pricier than dual vacuum [why?]. The higher spark performance types are upwards of $200.
I'm not racing so unless there was some absolutely big benefit to warrant the big price I'll go with the stock unit and probably single vacuum which is only ten dollars more and the parts guy said it's better.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 491
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From: kirksville mo
Difficult Distributor Removal
I had the same problem with a 351m in a 79 truck that had a gas leak and burned some milted the distributor plastic parts that is i ended up using a torch and heated up the dist shaft after that it came out with a few good blows with a chisel hope tis helps dave
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Joined: Dec 2003
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You will probably need a new dist. , but I got one out of my 1978 f150 351m by locking vise grips (med size curved jaw) onto the dist shaft housing and placing a 2 ft piece of pipe over the screw end , working back and forth and spraying with PB. not uncommon with any aluminum/cast mating surface to corrode and get STUCK!
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
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Pound if out from the bottom with a sledge hammer and steel drift. Get a new one then.
If it's still in the truck, wrap a chain around it, and use a bodyman's slide hammer, and slide hammer it out. You will most likely also need a new one, with this method.
Mine is stuck since I got the truck. It was pinging and I couldn't retard the timing. Instead, I removed the vacuum advance hose, and only run premium fuel, the pinging stopped, and the truck has loads of power (broke the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd yesterday, it's a 4-speed). So I decided not to fix what wasn't broken yet...
If it's still in the truck, wrap a chain around it, and use a bodyman's slide hammer, and slide hammer it out. You will most likely also need a new one, with this method.
Mine is stuck since I got the truck. It was pinging and I couldn't retard the timing. Instead, I removed the vacuum advance hose, and only run premium fuel, the pinging stopped, and the truck has loads of power (broke the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd yesterday, it's a 4-speed). So I decided not to fix what wasn't broken yet...
