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Looking at the log, it looks like a tune in there - or it could be another issue (like low fuel pressure). I don't trust the ICP sensor - I think it should be tested. I'm not saying replace it, but it looks just a little hinky at idle.
I don't know what your speeds were, but your torque converter is averse to locking up. Watch that PID when you get above in-town speeds. If the TC Slip doesn't lock on near zero while cruising down the highway - there goes all of your fuel economy.
Any way to do a good hard WOT up a steep grade, or tow something heavy?
Some quick testing reveals at cruising speed around 60 mph, the torque converter fluctuates between zero and 28. Is this normal or is this too much fluctuating indicating my torque converter has a problem?
Also checked the ICP sensor and it has oil on it. I replaced it in December of 2016. Looks like I’ll be ordering another F6TZ9F838A from Riffraff.
Should I go to a Ford dealer and have it flashed to stock just to eliminate that variable? I can't say that the PO of the truck didn't burn anything to the ECU, and it's been hiding on it.
Originally Posted by exbxtoy
Some quick testing reveals at cruising speed around 60 mph, the torque converter fluctuates between zero and 28. Is this normal or is this too much fluctuating indicating my torque converter has a problem?
Also checked the ICP sensor and it has oil on it. I replaced it in December of 2016. Looks like I’ll be ordering another F6TZ9F838A from Riffraff.
If you are reading TC Slip with the "stock" Ford PIDs in Torque Pro, then you may want to read the 2018 PID thread - particularly about the TC Slip formula. Just make sure you have good accuracy with the TC Slip PID, log your MPH, RPMs, TC Slip, ICP, IPR, FIPW, EOT, TFT, and skip everything else. This is how you can check your fueling and your transmission.
I wouldn't spend money on the truck until the data and some tests reveal more info... it's not like you're dead in the driveway. As for the ICP sensor, use some electrical contact cleaner on the contact, put a dab of dielectric grease in the (both available in small packaging at the auto parts store), and hook it back up before you log your next run. I would also avoid the stealership right now - low fuel pressure can cause some symptoms that mimic poor aftermarket tuning.
You can never go wrong with making sure the fuel delivery system is doing its job. If you're itchin' to walletize somthin'... this is the place.
If you are reading TC Slip with the "stock" Ford PIDs in Torque Pro, then you may want to read the 2018 PID thread - particularly about the TC Slip formula. Just make sure you have good accuracy with the TC Slip PID, log your MPH, RPMs, TC Slip, ICP, IPR, FIPW, EOT, TFT, and skip everything else. This is how you can check your fueling and your transmission.
I wouldn't spend money on the truck until the data and some tests reveal more info... it's not like you're dead in the driveway. As for the ICP sensor, use some electrical contact cleaner on the contact, put a dab of dielectric grease in the (both available in small packaging at the auto parts store), and hook it back up before you log your next run. I would also avoid the stealership right now - low fuel pressure can cause some symptoms that mimic poor aftermarket tuning.
You can never go wrong with making sure the fuel delivery system is doing its job. If you're itchin' to walletize somthin'... this is the place.
Thanks Tugly. You are right, I am using the "stock" Ford PID's. I have downloaded your 2018 PID's, I just need to read up on how to get them loaded on my Sansung S4. I have already pulled the trigger on a small cash infusion with Riffraff, getting some maintenance stuff like fuel filter, air filter, and a new ICP sensor. My fuel pressure stays constant at 62 PSI, the only time it dips is when I hit 100% WOT from dead start. I also plan on getting the Racor PS120-02, so I can see if I am getting bubbles coming from the tank, and if so, I will take the fuel tank down and replace the quick disconnect o-rings connecting to the fuel tank.