Picked up my 2002 F350 7.3.
#1
#7
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#8
It took me a while to pull the trigger on this truck the up pipes bad the defroster is always on and two bad front rotors.
After I found this stuff they knocked 1400 off the I figured u could fix it for that so I got it and plan to work on it every weekend until it’s all fixed. On to the defrosters next.
shawn
After I found this stuff they knocked 1400 off the I figured u could fix it for that so I got it and plan to work on it every weekend until it’s all fixed. On to the defrosters next.
shawn
#12
Ok after crawling around the motor with a flashlight found that the oil leak is from the EBPV even though it’s not plugged in. I’m guessing that solenoid that controls oil flow is leaking and that is where oil is coming from. But it’s leaking around the arm.
Am I correct on this assumption?
shawn
Am I correct on this assumption?
shawn
#13
Most likely, that is a very common leak and the reason why a lot of us use the EBPV delete pedestal. Based on your location and if you ever plan to use this as an exhaust brake of sorts, you may want to consider a rebuild, replacement pedestal or a delete pedestal.
RiffRaff and Diesel-O-Rings are our go-to sources for repairs of this nature.
RiffRaff and Diesel-O-Rings are our go-to sources for repairs of this nature.
#15
Slower to warm up is all. My truck will go to high idle if the temperature is low enough after it has been running/idling for a period of time. Here in north GA I have only heard/seen it kick into high idle on its own a hand full of times.
I have a high idle tune from my chosen tuner as well. I use this to warm the truck up after it has warmed a bit to where I feel comfortable bumping the RPM up to 1000. For example, the other day we needed to move our 5th wheel trailer up the driveway about 25 yards. I started the truck, let it idle for ~7 minutes and then changed the tune to high idle. After another 5 minutes or so, it was at operating temperature and ready to push the trailer 25 yards and then be parked again.
Another "advantage" of deleting the EBPV is you can remove the flap/shutter valve on the exhaust side of the turbo. You can do this manually or you can buy a high flow outlet made by Garrett. This will give you a little more free flowing exhaust, but nothing to call home to mom about.
If you plan to use the EBPV as a brake or you see the truck activating the EPBV valve a lot in the winter, you may consider keeping it and rebuilding/replacing the pedestal with another one just like it.
I have a high idle tune from my chosen tuner as well. I use this to warm the truck up after it has warmed a bit to where I feel comfortable bumping the RPM up to 1000. For example, the other day we needed to move our 5th wheel trailer up the driveway about 25 yards. I started the truck, let it idle for ~7 minutes and then changed the tune to high idle. After another 5 minutes or so, it was at operating temperature and ready to push the trailer 25 yards and then be parked again.
Another "advantage" of deleting the EBPV is you can remove the flap/shutter valve on the exhaust side of the turbo. You can do this manually or you can buy a high flow outlet made by Garrett. This will give you a little more free flowing exhaust, but nothing to call home to mom about.
If you plan to use the EBPV as a brake or you see the truck activating the EPBV valve a lot in the winter, you may consider keeping it and rebuilding/replacing the pedestal with another one just like it.