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Going to replace the balljoints in one side of my 94 Bronco. I know I need to remove the rotors, spindles, axleshaft and then the two balljoint nuts. My service manual CD then says to strike the upper balljoint stud with a plastic or rawhide hammer so the threads are not harmed.
Rawhide hammer ...............Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight!!! That's a good one. How do they really come out guys. 10 pound maul? Balljoint separator fork? Torch or dynamite??? Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. I haven't changed a 4x4 balljoint for nearly a decade and don't remember any tricks.
definatly not a torch this will remove the temper from the knuckle. on my ranger i left the nut on so i didnt ruin the threads and smacked it good hard and quick wit a 4 lb hammer and they popped rite loose. if you are replaceing any way who cares if you ruin the threads.
Did all four not too terribly long ago and truthfully the rubber mallet worked.... ...after banging away at the serperator fork for about twenty minutes a piece. I assume you are talking about two on one side. Because if you are talking about the upper pair or the lower pair...do yourself a favor and do 'em all while you have that much of the front end apart. You end up tearing it down til you have the steering knuckles with the ball joints in them left in your hand. Then you can get the old ones out and mount the new ones.
Sudsrat...I haven't seen him either. Don't know him well enough to email and ask.
Thanks guys, I should have known there were a ton of threads on this. It looks like the usual balljoint game. I'll have a big hammer handy and hope I don't need it. I was kidding about the torch. I won't lie and say I have never warmed a suspension component, but I know it is to be avoided. I am replacing both joints on the passenger side. I'll do the shaft joints while I'm there. I need to break the other side down and install a camber shim. I'll replace the joints on that side if I screw up threads.
Something else that might work a little quicker than banging on it for 20 minutes with a rubber mallet would be a 2x4 and a sledge. You will have a little more of a blow to the ball joints without the thread damage that usually happens. On our old race car this method worked well with removing stubborn stub axles and putting the spring plates on.
If you're going to replace them ... I have had excellent luck with a pipe wrench of all things. spray the offending lower ball joint with oil, adjust pipe wrench to get a good bite, add long cheater, twist. You'll ruin the threads so don't try this one if you have the intention of re-using. Don't hammer on the ball joint without the nut on the threads .... it's not so much there to protect the threads as it is to prevent mushrooming of the stud (which prevents removal until you file the shi-it out of it, guess how I know )
I just did mine a few weeks ago, and this is the procedure I followed. Once I tore it down to the knuckles, I loosened the top and bottom nut. I beat the crap out of the top nut until the stud broke free. You'll know when it breaks free because suddenly the knuckle will be a whole lot easier to turn.
Leave both nuts on. Then beat the crap out of the bottom stud. When it breaks free, the knuckle will try to fall off. Keep the nuts on up until this point so the knuckle doesn't fall on your foot.
I got mine off with a 16 oz carpenter's hammer, but I was sure close to getting a 3 lb sledge to make my life easier.
I also recommend getting a gear puller for the spindle. My experience was (and I've taken both sides off now) the job's impossible without one. Thread one of the locknuts back on the spindle and put the fingers on it, pushing against the end of the axleshaft.
Good luck, and keep a large swear jar next to the truck.
If you like Bronco violence you should be in Iowa tonight. Corrosion is complicating this as I thought it might. First problem was the front antilock speed sensor is very happy right where it's at. I may have to leave it in the steering knuckle and pull the harness. Got the spindle off with out damage. It wasn't any fun. I am ready to pull the right axle now and assault the balljoints. It doesn't want to come out of the Dana 44. surely it should??? Or do I have to separate at the slip yoke instead?
passenger side is retained at the housing internally via C-clip ... just pull the shaft apart at the slip joint, mark for 'balance' .... driver side just pulls out in traditional manner.
Originally posted by Sudsrat Hey Fenders.
Steve83 had a good description of the procees.Try a search.
BTW, I haven't seen him post in quite awhile.Anyone know why?
Sudsrat : you know i was wonder the same thing. when i first joined the boards he was on here all the time, and i havnt seen a post by him in a while. hope he okay. DW
"passenger side is retained at the housing internally via C-clip"
Thanks, that's what I suspected so I split the shaft to change my balljoints. I wanted to change out the inner U-joint while I'm there. I'll have to explore the possibility of changing it on the truck then Don't think I have ever done that before. We'll see tomorrow I guess.
same principals apply for off truck changes ... it's just a little more awkward ... if you have a ball joint press, use it to help - makes life easier.