When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, another question. I have a 1950 F1, the dashboard is in rather poor condition. It is bent and dented around the new Dolphin insert. Is it possible to remove the whole metal dash to restore it. If so how is it held in. At the moment I cannot even see how the Dolphin 5 gauge insert is held in place. The wiring is none to tidy under there, but if I could remove the dash it would be much easier to repair. There are 4 screws running along the top of the dash under the windscreen, I do not know if these are original or not. Any advice would be much appreciated.
The screws at the top of the dash are for the defroster ducts. The dash is welded in, I believe. The original guages were held with threaded studs on the back side. Perhaps the Dolphins use a similar arrangement.
49er is correct. The metal dash is welded in place, in more places than you can see. Removing it is not a viable option if you plan on putting it back in. You'll need to work with it the best you can.
49er is correct. The metal dash is welded in place, in more places than you can see. Removing it is not a viable option if you plan on putting it back in. You'll need to work with it the best you can.
I just went through that exercise with my 50 F1.... it's not much fun. I removed the wiper motor to get the old dash out.
Yes - there are 3 studs w/nuts which hold the dash in however, you will have to make different holders for the Dolphin insert as the ones they send are worthless.
Make sure to fit the insert "before" you install the gauges into it - don't ask how I know.
I just went through that exercise with my 50 F1.... it's not much fun. I removed the wiper motor to get the old dash out.
Yes - there are 3 studs w/nuts which hold the dash in however, you will have to make different holders for the Dolphin insert as the ones they send are worthless.
Make sure to fit the insert "before" you install the gauges into it - don't ask how I know.
Phil, just to clarify, when you say "dash" you really mean gauge cluster, correct? The dash panel in question the op is asking about is the metal structure welded as part of the cab, and we don't want to confuse anyone.
Phil, just to clarify, when you say "dash" you really mean gauge cluster, correct? The dash panel in question the op is asking about is the metal structure welded as part of the cab, and we don't want to confuse anyone.
Yes..... I meant the dash cluster not the "dash" itself.
Sorry - if it might confused anyone....
I just went through that exercise with my 50 F1.... it's not much fun. I removed the wiper motor to get the old dash out.
Yes - there are 3 studs w/nuts which hold the dash in however, you will have to make different holders for the Dolphin insert as the ones they send are worthless.
Make sure to fit the insert "before" you install the gauges into it - don't ask how I know.
Thanks for the reply. Yes my Dolphin Gauge insert is already fitted into my beaten up dash. So I was thinking maybe it might be easier to unplug all the gauge connections, speedo etc, then remove the whole dash with insert still in situate. Well it seemed like a good idea, but as many have pointed out it is not practical to do that..A job I might postpone for a while why I get some mileage in my new truck.
I got my dash panel out by loosening the headlight assymbly! Re-wired it and put in a 12v neg ground alternator, new 12v coil and electronic ignition! As well as found a bunch of useless wires or ridiculous twisted wires in the harness!!
it all came together in the end, but had to re-install the original solenoid to get the 1-wire start button to work right!
Now intead of running for 5 minutes until the battery was drained, I took it on a 30 minute cruise around the neighborhood!! Yay!! Victory for that part!!!!
Just to clarify;
instrument cluster = the part with the gauges in it
dad = the interior metal structure that the instrument cluster bolts into.
I once had ideas about replacing the dash....Nope. It's an integral part of the cab. Its welded along the edges and the upper edge of the dash is also the pinch-weld seem for the window opening. I suppose you could hack one out with a cut-off wheel or something bit it would take quite a bit of welding, smoothing, cussing, beer, etc to get it fitted back in place.
This diagram helped me get mine out. The arrows show the nuts that need to be removed, in addition you’ll need to remove the wiring and speedometer cable. Take the seat out, it’ll give you more space, and your cursing will echo around the cab better.
Here's a tip for 53-55 clusters. I don't know if it works for 48-52 clusters. Once you have the nuts off and the cluster is pushed into the dash you can twist it and turn it and bring it out the hole rather than bringing it the whole way down towards the floor to get it out. This is important especially after you have it cleaned up and the bezel is painted if 48-50 clusters have a painted bezel . Which, I think they don't.
Here's a tip for 53-55 clusters. I don't know if it works for 48-52 clusters. Once you have the nuts off and the cluster is pushed into the dash you can twist it and turn it and bring it out the hole rather than bringing it the whole way down towards the floor to get it out. This is important especially after you have it cleaned up and the bezel is painted if 48-50 clusters have a painted bezel . Which, I think they don't.
Good point, yes that worked for me on my 48, but not until it was completely disconnected. When I rewired I put bullet connectors on all the wires to make it easier the next time.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
Removing Dashboard F1
