Ignition switch wire identification

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Apr 2, 2018 | 09:18 PM

#16

Gigemags05

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From: Denton, TX

From the info on of 96, looks like I am missing one yellow wire on the ign switch. Other than that, they’re all there.

Apr 3, 2018 | 05:57 PM

#17

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

You are making this up yourself, so it can work any way you want it to. Do you want your turnsignals to work even with the ignition switch off? If so, hook them directly to a fuse and then the battery. Do you want them to work like the factory had them, which is only work when the key is on? Then you need to hook the to the fuse and then the fuse is hooked to the ignition switch, not the battery.

I do not know what sort of wiring "kit" you have, it must not have very good instructions. I can't say how your new fuse box is arranged, but usually half of the fuse box is hooked directly to the battery, the other half is hooked to the ignition switch. So if you want something to work all the time, you hook it to a fuse that is in the hot all the time part of the fuse box. Key on components hook only to the fuses that have power with the key on.

Apr 3, 2018 | 07:40 PM

#18

Gigemags05

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From: Denton, TX

I don't think the kit is the problem, its the user. I am just a little slow on the uptake. After getting into it a little more today I think I have a little bit better idea of how the harness is laid out. It has all the circuits that should fire with the ignition grouped together and set up to be installed into the ignition switch.

What was throwing me off is that the harness, although it says it works with all makes, is more geared toward GM vehicles and I am afraid I am going to mess a connection up.

Like I said, I appreciate both of you taking the time to help me and point me in the right direction. I know its frustrating to try and answer questions from someone who seems to not understand what he's asking, haha.

Apr 4, 2018 | 08:14 AM

#19

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

Although it will work, it's not a very good plan to tie everything together at one point and run it to the ignition switch. It's better to separate the circuits out with smaller fuses in each circuit, so if something goes wrong in that one branch circuit, that branch fuse will blow and not kill the whole vehicle. You have to be reasonable about it, you usually can't run fuses for everything, so you combine a few things on one circuit.

Apr 4, 2018 | 08:36 AM

#20

Gigemags05

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From: Denton, TX

Yeah that makes sense. There are separate fuses for each of the wires that we have been discussing. So hopefully we are good there. I am planning on separating each of those wires from their fuse to the ignition switch.

May 31, 2018 | 07:39 AM

#21

Gigemags05

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From: Denton, TX

I am still having an issue with this switch. I have tried two different switches (had an extra one on hand for some reason) and get the same thing. The accessories do not turn on until the engine is almost cranking. If I turn the key to the on position, nothing happens. When I put a test light on the black/green wire, it is getting a constant 12volts, even when the key is off. So I have something wrong here.

My harness has 5 wires that go to the ignition switch:

1.) Ignition power -Going to Yellow
2.) Accessories - Going to Black/Green
3.) Ignition Switch Ignition - Grey/Yellow
4.) Ignition Coil - Red/Pink Brown
5.) Ignition Start - Going to Red/White and blue

For some reason, my electric choke wire is getting a constant 12v as well. Its on the same circuit as would be an electric fuel pump, etc. so I believe that its going to the (Ign swith Ignition) grey/yellow wire.

Any ideas on what could cause this? Is it backfeeding somewhere?

May 31, 2018 | 05:03 PM

#22

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

1st thing I would do is unplug the switch, get your meter and set it to ohms, and then clip on meter lead to the ignition power, and then with the switch in off, see if you have continuity to any of the other terminals. Then put it in Accessory position and see which terminals have continuity. Then put it in run and check them all again, and then spring it over to start and check them all again. Make sure what the diagram and wiring says, is jiving with what the switch is doing. If the switch checks out, then you know you have a wiring problem in the harness somewhere.

Jun 1, 2018 | 09:45 AM

#23

Gigemags05

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From: Denton, TX

Last night I wired up a universal ignition switch and it all worked properly. I have now tried two brand new ford ignition switches and my original ignition switch and all have the same issues. I am thinking I may have something connected to the wrong terminal on the factory switches.

Even so, when I turn the ignition on the column, it is very finicky. It gets stuck easily and does not reset itself at all. The lock cylinder is new. I am not sure what the issue is there.