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Hi gang, quick question. Just dropped in the adjustable crane roller rockers stud mounted on dive 460 heads. What is the proper method to set these up? In the past I've just gotten them close, fired it up, then fine tuned it by ear (loosen them till they make noise, snug them down till quiet plus half a turn), but those were chevies. If somebody could outline the proper procedure step by step I'd appreciate. Wanna do it right the first time.
Another dumb question. My buddy was telling me that with these 460 heads, there is a right and a left one. I told him they are the same and if you have a pair it doesn't matter what side you bolt them on. Who's right? Thanks guys.
With hydraulic lifters, back the nut off until you have no tension. Hold the pushrod between two fingers where you can twirl it back and forth. Slowly tighten the nut while twirling the push rod. When you feel tension on the twirling pushrod, you're at zero preload. I like to use 1/4 more turn of the nut as a preload adjusment, others prefer 1/2 turn. Tighten the set screw.
thank you George. I was pretty positive about the heads being the same but you never know. So it doesn't matter what position the piston or cam is in, I just drop on the rockers, snug them up untill they pushrod won't spin easily, then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn...right? For some reason I thought I rememberd having to have the piston at tdc or something...must just be getting senile. If it doesn't matter what position everything is in it makes it easier anyways.
Its best to make sure the cylinder you are adjusting is at TDC on the compression stroke. If you start with #1 and work your way thru the firing order turning the crank every 90 Degrees you should be ok.
Yup, I was thinking about it and know that you can't just snug them all down...phew, trying to think when your tired. so the question is, when the piston is at tdc to I adjust the intake in the above method...or when exactly. Sorry for the dumb questions I guess I just need to be walked through. I've fine tuned the adjustable type when they were already on the engine and they were already close, never from scratch. All these years of working with the non adjustable type have given me brain lock, lol.
Okay, I think I've sorted out my muddled thoughts. preload needs to be adjusted when any given lifter is on the base of the cam lobe, zero lift. So basically, I'll just crank over the engine untill the pushrod is at its lowest point, snug the rocker down untill it doesn't spin freely, and tighten 1/4 turn. Repeat 15 times. Maybe there are easier ways, but this is how it came back to me, when setting them up from scratch. Let me know if theres an easier way.
Sorry for excluding that, you said you had done them before and I ommited that step. There are easier ways, but I also do them one by one to make sure I'm on the base lobe.
Yup, I have, but its been awhile since I've set them up from scratch...usually they where already in the ballpark on the engine. Anyways, its bone simple, and it finally came to me...for some reason I couldn't gather my thoughts yesterday. Blame it on an ill-spent youth. Anyways, thanks for the replies.
Ok I have two cents to add to this. If you adjust the rockers that way you are suggesting you could actually be "hanging the valve open". The only way that has ever worked for me is to roll the engine over until #1 is TDC. Then rotate until the exhaust lifter is at full travel then tighten the intake rocker arm. You should not use the roll method unless you want to do this step multiple times. Instead try to move the pushrod side to side or up and down. once you have no more free movement then you can tighten an aditional 1/2 turn. Repeat the same process for the exhaust rocker. Then continue with the rest of the firing order. Roll through all of this without the spark plugs installed to make the job easier. I did the other method and found that I had open valves when trying to do my initial start up (engine turned over with no resistance). So keep this in mind. You can also go to any of the cam shaft makers websites and read what I wrote. Just an idea.
I guess I'm a little confused but would like to hear more. I did check the Crane sight, and they basically put it out like I understand it: Adjust each valve one at a time, when the hydraulic lifter is on the lobe base of the cam at zero lift, tighten untill just snug plus 1/4-1/2 turn. I didn't exactly follow your explanation of how this could be "hanging the valve open". If anybody can explain further I'd appreciate it.
Tightening the adjustment nut too much will force the rocker to open the valve. There are two choices for the force you are adding, 1 bend the pushrod or 2 open the valve. Kind of like the cam lobe was pushing the lifter up. Make any sense now?
Well, sure, I understand why its bad to overtighten it. What I don't understand is whats wrong with adjusting valves by the method I described above: Have the lifter at its lowest point, which will be on the base of the cam lobe at zero lift, take up all the slack in the rocker, then tighten a further quarter turn. The valve will still be closed. Sorry if I'm being dense?
TDC doesn't mean much to the cam if it has any overlap ground in, as most performance cams do. For an easy adjustment with a stock or mild cam, follow Tom Monroe's instructions on hydraulic lifter adjustment. Its a no-brainer and will work every time. I still prefer to do each cylinder on an individual basis, turning it over with the plugs out and I can make sure lifters are on the bottom of the cam lobe. Adjust intake as the exhaust just starts to open, exhaust as the intake begins to open.
Don't tighten until you feel tension. Twist, and as airharley says, move from side to side until the slack is out. That's zero preload. Then tighten 1/4-1/2 turn and lock set screw.
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