I regularly use my '76 supercab to tow race bikes, cars, equipment and so forth. However getting past smog is getting annoying on a 42 year old truck. So naturally my answer was to buy a '75 (smog exempt in CA). I was disheartened to find the values have shot way up in the past years however that leads me to this post. I am going to do a quick 'n dirty frame off restoration of the '75. Basically clean and paint everything, fix rust and replace everything rubber. I am not going to stress over getting the sheet metal laser straight or every detail concours correct. I am aiming for clean, sound and comfortable, with some modern upgrades.

I am going to run down ideas I have and am curious what people think about it based on prior experience with these trucks. I figured I should use the collective knowledge here to help limit the "I wish I did x" when I'm done.

Both trucks are 2wd F250 supercab camper specials with 8100lb GVWR. The 76, 'Burt' has a 460 that I rebuilt from a high-compression Lincoln motor. 'Carl' the 75 has a 390 that supposedly runs but I have not fired yet. Burt is an XLT with factory air, cruise, etc. Carl is a standard ranger w/o air.

So the direction for things that I have not decided on are which motor to use and to rebuild the factory AC, vintageAir, or combine the two for modern parts in a factory look.
Also do I run the polished aluminum wheels, or stock steel with the factory hubcaps? I like the look of both.
Do I keep the chrome bumpers or build custom ones with utility like front hitch ball, winch, etc. I actually use the truck and these things would come in handy, but may not look proper on an old truck. I am also keeping the ride height stock.

So here is my tentative plan:

Tear down to the frame and repair any rust (drivers floor really). Re-plumb the entire truck for fuel injection, remote trans coolers, brakes. Update all the electrical for trailer wiring, lights, etc.
Replace the heavy duty but brutally harsh springs with lighter units from the 150 and airbags with a pump and self leveling switches.
Lizardskin/dynamat/cld the cab as much as possible
all new carpet/vinyl
respray the hideously appropriate two-tone green.
line-x the bed
modern stereo
Keep dual batteries but add modern isolator
replace the 18gal aux tank with a 38 for 55 gallons total.
hydroboost and rear disc upgrade.
locking diff

And the big money stuff that I can't do now but would entertain eventually:
monster motor build
modern 6-speed trans

I don't have a set budget but I also don't want to go crazy as this will already cost more than it will ever be worth.

-Greg

 

Keep everything with a '75 VIN and build the rest to suit yourself? That's what I gather from your description. I would do the same thing in your shoes. I would use the 460 with straight up timing set for the '72 and earlier trucks, before EPA stepped in.

 

Well, here is my $.02 worth. I like my 390, I think it is one hell of a strong engine that can do anything I will ever ask of it. And for the most part, it is all stock. I would do a combo on the A/C, OEM inside and modern under the hood. As long as the wheels are 16" and not 16.5", I am with you, they both look good. You can make or buy a receiver for the front and keep the chrome bumpers. Add quick connects actually like the tow truck jumper cable things and mount a winch on a hitch plate to mount in the front, or rear receiver. The rest of your list sounds good, except for the f150 springs. I don't think mine rides all that bad, so I would keep the heavy duty stuff.



https://www.grainger.com/product/3BY...180322175920:s

 

The reason I bought the '75 in the first place is to register and use the '75 vin! screw CARB!

The reason I mentioned the springs is that everytime I hit a pothole on the freeway it feels like I am going to loose a fender! Feels much better when I have 1500+lbs in the bed. Even 3000lbs barely levels out the ride height. EDIT: I compared the leaf packs on both. The '75 has 5 leaves at ~2in thick. The '76 is stamped D2TA5560MB but has 7 leaves and is ~3" thick. Maybe that's why it rides like school bus?

As for 390 vs. 460 I have never driven the 390 and I am addicted to the 3rd gear uphill passing while towing 5K. Even if I still get 9mpg empty.

The electrical hookup is something I forgot to add, and a front hitch mount is the perfect solution. This is why I asked, great ideas already!

 

Since you are putting the time and money into it, go with the nicer rims. Steel ones tend have rust spots. If you are not putting anything heavy duty on the second battery, the continuous duty solenoid works great. Mine is rated at 80 amps. Also, do the 3G Alternator mod, if you haven't yet. This will help supply your power needs for the extras you want. If you add a 79 ignition switch, you can also get more wires at the ignition to add your extras. Since you plan to go to the frame, now is the time to do a new wire harness. You may wish to do the 38gal gas tank, but at least do all the gas hoses. I installed the 38gal and love the idea of almost 60gal cruising range. Finally, if your headliner is the worse for wear, look for a bullnose crewcab at the yards. Snag that headliner and trim it down to fit yours. Those work great and are durable.

 

I will probably just go for hand building a full custom wiring harness. And good call on the ignition switch however I think I am going to run a modern style fuse and relay panel and keep the amperage away from the ignition. I will probably pinch the alt from the '76 as well. Its modern GM internals with a Ford case by TuffStuff, 140amp I think. More expensive but was a simple drop in. I will start a thread when I actually start digging into the project and include the parts I go with.

The whole fuel system is going to be redone with ethanol compatible hoses, AN fittings pump valves and filters. I have experience with old cars that sat with the older MTBE laden CA gas that literally oozes fuel out every inch of line. So first thing I do is replace all the rubber hoses. I will do the filler necks and vents too.

Thanks for the tip on the headliner, mine is destroyed. In fact I am about to go hit up some junkyards today.

 

I have a 75 SC with 460. I bought it because:
1) My 84 failed smog here in Cali
2) My 84 had an inline 6 that got 12 mpg.

I installed a Painless fuse panel. This helped me to clean up the engine bay by installing an HEI and a 1 wire alternator. I only went after a 100 amp unit. I utilized the 2nd battery solenoid to shut off my whole system when the key is off. No more forgetting the headlights. I also installed ground stations throughout the truck so that it would be easier to run ground wires. One more thing to consider: For your rear lights, run the same colored wire that is used for trailer wiring harnesses if you can. Makes for a much easier connection.