Crewcab Superduty (7.3) A/C Feedback Request Southern Region
#1
Crewcab Superduty (7.3) A/C Feedback Request Southern Region
I have a 2003 crew cab F350 (7.3) that the A/C just seemed inadequate last summer. I purchased it in the early Spring of 2017 and the A/C was adequate but come July-September, it just wasn't cutting it at all in the San Antonio, TX heat. I suffered through the summer because I wasn't sure if I wanted to keep this truck or not. Note, I have a 7.3 Excursion that will freeze your knickers off, but it has the rear air system.
Before sinking money into this rig, I wanted to get feedback if the A/C system was engineered adequate for these large cabins or if they all struggle in the dead of summer. Does your full size cab get frosty on those July-Sept hot summer days? I have no problem doing a complete overhaul on the A/C system (if needed), but I don't want to sink a couple of grand into it with new OEM parts to only find out its the nature of the beast on these trucks. A/C is a deal breaker at 48. When I was younger, I was more tolerant, but I will sell this one and move to a different truck if this is just a "big cab Ford thing". I hope its not, because I really like this 4x4 dually. Being a 2003, I already have the coolant shutoff valve to the heater core. I read that the aftermarket one was better, so that is an option. Money isn't the issue, I just don't want to throw good money after bad if you know what I mean.
What say you? Are you frosty in the summer or just getting by?
Thanks
Chris
Mods - **I also posted this in the Texas subforum, so I hope this isnt a violation **
Before sinking money into this rig, I wanted to get feedback if the A/C system was engineered adequate for these large cabins or if they all struggle in the dead of summer. Does your full size cab get frosty on those July-Sept hot summer days? I have no problem doing a complete overhaul on the A/C system (if needed), but I don't want to sink a couple of grand into it with new OEM parts to only find out its the nature of the beast on these trucks. A/C is a deal breaker at 48. When I was younger, I was more tolerant, but I will sell this one and move to a different truck if this is just a "big cab Ford thing". I hope its not, because I really like this 4x4 dually. Being a 2003, I already have the coolant shutoff valve to the heater core. I read that the aftermarket one was better, so that is an option. Money isn't the issue, I just don't want to throw good money after bad if you know what I mean.
What say you? Are you frosty in the summer or just getting by?
Thanks
Chris
Mods - **I also posted this in the Texas subforum, so I hope this isnt a violation **
#3
What do your summers get up to? Sadly, we can stay over a hundred for weeks down here. I am not sure what the cab volume is between the crew cab and extended cabs. I have never been in one of the extended cab Fords.
#4
I just meant that my air blows really cold, and I haven't done anything to my a/c, and I bought this used in 2010. we never see temps that high, maybe the mid 90's and high humidity, but I don't need to run it on max fan once the cabin cools. You said you just got the truck, maybe it's got a slow leak and the PO charged the system just for the sale?
#5
#6
I have the factory ball valve (well I think this is a ball valve to shut off the coolant). Is this the coolant shut off valve to the heater core when on max AC?
#7
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#11
Compressor, condenser, evaporator, dryer, orifice tube. Anything else on the list you replaced?
#12
EVERYTHING....... that is just the way all fords are
Compressor, condenser, evaporator, orifice tube, lines, o-rings................... the whole enchilada
Added the ranger valve and an electric fan on the condenser. Those helped a lot.
#13
Need to put some gauges on it to figure ot out. It likely is one of a few issues:
1. Compressor cycling off on low pressure. Causes a) low freon, b) partially plugged orifice tube
2. Freon overfilled
3. Compressor disengaging due to too large of clutch gap on the compressor.
My experience was as follows: mine would get cool but not ice cold. Added some freon due to cycling off on low pressure. Didnt improve but actually cooled better at idle than when running down the road. Pulled and replaced orifice tube (didn’t look too bad) and viola! Ice cold all the time.
1. Compressor cycling off on low pressure. Causes a) low freon, b) partially plugged orifice tube
2. Freon overfilled
3. Compressor disengaging due to too large of clutch gap on the compressor.
My experience was as follows: mine would get cool but not ice cold. Added some freon due to cycling off on low pressure. Didnt improve but actually cooled better at idle than when running down the road. Pulled and replaced orifice tube (didn’t look too bad) and viola! Ice cold all the time.
#14
The tight shutoff heater valve was not a standard 2002 install, but it WAS a standard install on all Excursions.
First, check your clutch air gap and shim/reshim accordingly to get the proper specs. More than likely, that will resolve your issues, it won't cost hardly anything at all, and is fast and easy to do. I've attached a PDF which details the process for you.
Second, if the clutch is so worn that you cannot get the proper air gap with NO shims, then a new clutch is rather inexpensive part to do as the second step. Know, though, that if you end up following David's example (empiretc) to replace the entire system, this clutch will be "throw away" money.
When I removed my shim over 7 years ago (well over 100,000 miles ago), my air temps got frigid cold. It's only now (last summer) just beginning to indicate that the clutch is now about worn out and the new one "sitting on the shelf in the garage" should probably get installed before it gets too hot here again.
First, check your clutch air gap and shim/reshim accordingly to get the proper specs. More than likely, that will resolve your issues, it won't cost hardly anything at all, and is fast and easy to do. I've attached a PDF which details the process for you.
Second, if the clutch is so worn that you cannot get the proper air gap with NO shims, then a new clutch is rather inexpensive part to do as the second step. Know, though, that if you end up following David's example (empiretc) to replace the entire system, this clutch will be "throw away" money.
When I removed my shim over 7 years ago (well over 100,000 miles ago), my air temps got frigid cold. It's only now (last summer) just beginning to indicate that the clutch is now about worn out and the new one "sitting on the shelf in the garage" should probably get installed before it gets too hot here again.
#15