notes on gauge install, Isspro EV2s
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Troy
I am somewhat hesitating of drilling into the exhaust without making sure to remove all the debris though, the last thing I want is a broken turbo.
On the other hand I also don't want to remove the up-pipes since mine aren't leaking (yet)..
I was thinking of tapping into the y-collector but I don't know how good that can be done.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,566
Likes: 2,036
From: North Texas
My old 6.4 PSD used an uppipe mounted thermocouple from the factory. Worked fine there.
Dual units would be smart, could help show if one bank is significantly hotter than the other amd alert to a fueling issue.
Dual units would be smart, could help show if one bank is significantly hotter than the other amd alert to a fueling issue.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,421
Likes: 197
From: AZ
How accessible is the driver side manifold?
I am somewhat hesitating of drilling into the exhaust without making sure to remove all the debris though, the last thing I want is a broken turbo.
On the other hand I also don't want to remove the up-pipes since mine aren't leaking (yet)..
I was thinking of tapping into the y-collector but I don't know how good that can be done.
I am somewhat hesitating of drilling into the exhaust without making sure to remove all the debris though, the last thing I want is a broken turbo.
On the other hand I also don't want to remove the up-pipes since mine aren't leaking (yet)..
I was thinking of tapping into the y-collector but I don't know how good that can be done.
I used a isspro in the drivers side manifold and a glow shift in the passenger side. The isspro runs 100° hotter then the isspro. I contribute that to the two different brands but IDK for sure.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 226
Likes: 45
From: Louisville KY
How accessible is the driver side manifold?
I am somewhat hesitating of drilling into the exhaust without making sure to remove all the debris though, the last thing I want is a broken turbo.
On the other hand I also don't want to remove the up-pipes since mine aren't leaking (yet)..
I was thinking of tapping into the y-collector but I don't know how good that can be done.
I am somewhat hesitating of drilling into the exhaust without making sure to remove all the debris though, the last thing I want is a broken turbo.
On the other hand I also don't want to remove the up-pipes since mine aren't leaking (yet)..
I was thinking of tapping into the y-collector but I don't know how good that can be done.
Question for folks who know more than me: If you had a performance problem that dual EGT gauges would indicate, would you have some other indication as well, such as a noticeable miss, or a failed contribution test? Or would you get noticeably different bank temps long before you ever failed a contribution test or noticed a miss?
I used a lot of grease on the drill bit when drilling into the exhaust manifold and used a small magnet thru the hole to make sure there wasn't any filing left in there. Collector? Good luck getting to that to drill a hole. If the up pipes aren't leaking I would leave them alone. Easy to get at, drill into the bend towards the rear. There are pictures around here someplace.
I used a isspro in the drivers side manifold and a glow shift in the passenger side. The isspro runs 100° hotter then the isspro. I contribute that to the two different brands but IDK for sure.
I used a isspro in the drivers side manifold and a glow shift in the passenger side. The isspro runs 100° hotter then the isspro. I contribute that to the two different brands but IDK for sure.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I recently installed gauges in my truck. I assume this upgrade is a pretty straightforward task for most folks here. However I had not installed gauges before, other than my Aeroforce scangauge, so I needed to do some research first. The process is pretty well documented between write-ups on the internet and install instructions from various vendors. However there were several small steps where a picture would have really helped clarify the process for me. So I took pictures during my install and thought I would post here in case it helps any other entry level folks like me.
I used Isspro EV2s, primarily because I thought they would match the factory gauges, and an Autometer pillar pod. I did the usual pyro/EGT and boost gauges, and went with a fuel pressure gauge for my third since I have a ZF5 truck (therefore trans temp is not a major concern). I got the snubber kit for the fuel pressure gauge, and I installed the gauges with the potentiometer dimmer that Isspro offers to enable me to brighten or dim the gauges as needed to match the factory cluster. It’s worth noting, this potentiometer enables you to both use your factory dimmer to adjust brightness of the gauges AND adjust them up or down additionally if their relative brightness does not match the factory cluster. I did not understand this at first and assumed the factory dimmer would be sufficient. But it seems the gauges are often X percent brighter (or dimmer) than the factory cluster, so just adjusting brighter or dimmer would always maintain that percent difference between the new gauges and the factory cluster.
The aspects of the install where I could have used more clarity were:
1) Fittings needed to make a T for the MAP
2) Exact location of hole for EGT probe
3) Fuel pressure sensor fitment on the factory fuel bowl
4) Where to route wires into firewall
5) How much to drill factory A-pillar trim piece
6) Good location for Isspro dimmer
7) Basic wiring and power sources
Forgive me, I know this is really basic stuff for a lot of folks here. Photos to follow...
I used Isspro EV2s, primarily because I thought they would match the factory gauges, and an Autometer pillar pod. I did the usual pyro/EGT and boost gauges, and went with a fuel pressure gauge for my third since I have a ZF5 truck (therefore trans temp is not a major concern). I got the snubber kit for the fuel pressure gauge, and I installed the gauges with the potentiometer dimmer that Isspro offers to enable me to brighten or dim the gauges as needed to match the factory cluster. It’s worth noting, this potentiometer enables you to both use your factory dimmer to adjust brightness of the gauges AND adjust them up or down additionally if their relative brightness does not match the factory cluster. I did not understand this at first and assumed the factory dimmer would be sufficient. But it seems the gauges are often X percent brighter (or dimmer) than the factory cluster, so just adjusting brighter or dimmer would always maintain that percent difference between the new gauges and the factory cluster.
The aspects of the install where I could have used more clarity were:
1) Fittings needed to make a T for the MAP
2) Exact location of hole for EGT probe
3) Fuel pressure sensor fitment on the factory fuel bowl
4) Where to route wires into firewall
5) How much to drill factory A-pillar trim piece
6) Good location for Isspro dimmer
7) Basic wiring and power sources
Forgive me, I know this is really basic stuff for a lot of folks here. Photos to follow...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 226
Likes: 45
From: Louisville KY
Yes I agree, having done it now, just drilling and tapping the y-pipe would have been simpler. But really my only complication with using the T into the MAP sensor hose was not knowing exactly which fittings to get. If you know what to get then this approach is really no trouble either. I just didn't want to mess the factory piece up. I wanted to keep as much as possible the way it was from the factory...so using existing holes, drilling as little as possible, etc.
Intercooler is on my to-do list. Seems like the E99 spyders are getting harder to come by.
Intercooler is on my to-do list. Seems like the E99 spyders are getting harder to come by.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 226
Likes: 45
From: Louisville KY
Wow, pictures came out huge this time. In case it helps anyone, I put them in with the pyrometer gauge on top, boost in middle. fuel pressure on bottom. My fuel pressure was low in these pictures (before shimming FPR with BB).
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