Is my EOT too high?
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 107
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[QUOTE=JoshC017;17880062]With what i've learned the last few days from you all and reading on here, this video makes perfect sense. One question I have, is if I do the flush with the Fleetguard and Restore, should or could I do this as well? Would you do this first or last? Using VC-9 is something different, so do I also do that in conjuction with Fleetguard or is this a competitor of Fleetguard? Sorry for the newb questions.
If it were me, I'd go after the silicate as being your most likely contaminant (ie. use Restore only). Using VC-9/'Restore Plus' is likely to loosen up scale/rust that you don't want in your system when there is a chance you can save your cooler. Don't worry about using the EC-1 rated coolant until you've thoroughly flushed with water (then distilled water)....adding the red coolant doesn't happen until the work's over. Your coolant filter should help going forward to filter out rust/casting sand etc.
If it were me, I'd go after the silicate as being your most likely contaminant (ie. use Restore only). Using VC-9/'Restore Plus' is likely to loosen up scale/rust that you don't want in your system when there is a chance you can save your cooler. Don't worry about using the EC-1 rated coolant until you've thoroughly flushed with water (then distilled water)....adding the red coolant doesn't happen until the work's over. Your coolant filter should help going forward to filter out rust/casting sand etc.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 865
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Hopefully you don't give others the advice you can run any motor oil in a 6.9.......it calls for diesel rated oil.
The coolant does, in fact, call for SCA's, you are correct in the standard antifreeze works. That said everyone I have ever known with a 6.9/7.3 IDI runs something ELC with SCA's.
The 7.3 IDI did suffer from cavitation, correct there that the 6.9 did not have those issues.
I don't think anyone ever claimed the PSD coined the phrase "it runs 500,000 miles", that originated with the OTR trucking industry.
My apologies to the OP for hijacking this thread in my effort to clear some things up.
The coolant does, in fact, call for SCA's, you are correct in the standard antifreeze works. That said everyone I have ever known with a 6.9/7.3 IDI runs something ELC with SCA's.
The 7.3 IDI did suffer from cavitation, correct there that the 6.9 did not have those issues.
I don't think anyone ever claimed the PSD coined the phrase "it runs 500,000 miles", that originated with the OTR trucking industry.
My apologies to the OP for hijacking this thread in my effort to clear some things up.
offended anyone i apologize for the princess remark,its just what us loggers call a office workers truck,
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 110
From: Lakeland, Fl
With what i've learned the last few days from you all and reading on here, this video makes perfect sense. One question I have, is if I do the flush with the Fleetguard and Restore, should or could I do this as well? Would you do this first or last? Using VC-9 is something different, so do I also do that in conjuction with Fleetguard or is this a competitor of Fleetguard? Sorry for the newb questions.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
If it were me, I'd go after the silicate as being your most likely contaminant (ie. use Restore only). Using VC-9/'Restore Plus' is likely to loosen up scale/rust that you don't want in your system when there is a chance you can save your cooler. Don't worry about using the EC-1 rated coolant until you've thoroughly flushed with water (then distilled water)....adding the red coolant doesn't happen until the work's over. Your coolant filter should help going forward to filter out rust/casting sand etc.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
You need to determine what is clogging the system. From my experience, VC9 is more of a rust treatment, where Restore will remove the gel. Restore+ and VC9 are similar. It won't hurt to run VC9 thru but if the system is gel clogged Restore is the way to go. I have had good luck with backflushing, very simple to do with just a hose the correct size. Hardest part is getting the cover off over the outlet port. I would definitely try it before tearing into it and replacing the cooler.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,900
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Fleetguard is the "brand name" for the product. Cummins Filtration Division was started from the Seymour Filter Company to supply filters for Cummins engines. They later changed their name to Fleetguard and then changed it back to Cummins Filtration. Many of their products still carry the Fleetguard label. "Restore" (silicate gel alkaline cleaner)and "Restore Plus" (acid based iron cleaner) are names for specific Fleetguard products. VC-9 is the part number for the Ford version of the acid based iron cleaner.
That detail is added as I see some things being posted repetitively and am thinking there is some confusion ......
That detail is added as I see some things being posted repetitively and am thinking there is some confusion ......
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2016
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I think I'm going to do my flush tomorrow. I was just doing some more reading and I'm not sure if I need to remove the two block plugs to help drain my coolant. I've seen conflicting info on that. Any pros or cons you can think of?
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
Defiantly the driver's side. If you put a Fumoto into it you can drain off any volume of coolant you want later with zero mess; t-stat change, fan shroud removal, degas or heater hose replacement. One of the most useful things on my truck is the block drain Fumoto on the driver's side. It does reduce the number of drains compared to just the radiator, something like an extra gallon or so per flush.
Passenger side cuts down on the number of flushes you have to do also, and it's an excuse to make sure your starter bolts aren't lose. I didn't mess with that side, and haven't seen a reason to yet really. You have to drop the starter to get the drain in, it's just tight and I didn't want to mess with it.
Passenger side cuts down on the number of flushes you have to do also, and it's an excuse to make sure your starter bolts aren't lose. I didn't mess with that side, and haven't seen a reason to yet really. You have to drop the starter to get the drain in, it's just tight and I didn't want to mess with it.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
For the non-chemical water flushes I did, to circulate the water you run the truck at high idle for a couple minutes, then shut it down and drain it. The one time I did VC-9 I drove it with the t-stat in for two hours before pulling it for the drains and flushes.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2016
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Help me with the steps, if you don't mind.
-I'll drain the coolant from everything first.
-Fill with fresh water, run for about an hour then drain that?
-poor in the Restore and top off with fresh water, run for an hour or so then drain
-then I fill with distilled water then run it for a bit, correct? Fill and drain until all I get is clear?
At what point is it best to back flush through the oil cooler?
-I'll drain the coolant from everything first.
-Fill with fresh water, run for about an hour then drain that?
-poor in the Restore and top off with fresh water, run for an hour or so then drain
-then I fill with distilled water then run it for a bit, correct? Fill and drain until all I get is clear?
At what point is it best to back flush through the oil cooler?
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
Powerstroke Cooling System Flush Overview and Flush PDF
Thanks, Nylyon
Coolant Flush, Change
Discussion and Instructions
Thanks, 03-6L-X, beachbumcook, and 69cj
Thanks, Nylyon
Coolant Flush, Change
Discussion and Instructions
Thanks, 03-6L-X, beachbumcook, and 69cj
I did just a coolant swap, no chemicals, and it took something like 28 gallons of distilled water to get to clear fluid draining out. There are a couple of YouTube videos of people flushing with a garden hose in the degas bottle for the first part to cut down on the number of drain/fill cycles you have to do to get the old coolant out before you run the Restore.
Back flush after the chemical IIRC? Did you get ever get links to the two fancy backflush valves?
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
That's what I did, pulled the stat and let the truck run for a couple mins, then drained. Rinse lather repeat until the water is clear.... 28 gallons later 
It really doesn't take that long, and it's better to do it right than do it again.
Found this in another thread, these are the backflush valves I was talking about:
It really doesn't take that long, and it's better to do it right than do it again.Found this in another thread, these are the backflush valves I was talking about:
You can backflush though a special cover over the EGR cooler outlet, it works with a welded cooler installed.:
Oil Cooler Backflush Valve Kit - Gen 2
https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-...SABEgI97_D_BwE
Oil Cooler Backflush Valve Kit - Gen 2
https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-...SABEgI97_D_BwE