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I went around and did an initial inspection back on St. Paddy's, and was a fairly easy cold start (Around 30 Degrees out), cycled the plugs once, and let her whirl. Few seconds of cranking, and just condensation out of the tail pipe. No black or Blue smoke, which is good. Did an inspection underneath and the oil pan is damp, but not wet. Does not seem like there is any visible leaks, and well, the engine was not detailed so that was a plus. Also flipped the oil cap over to check for blow-by and there was none. The best thing, is that there is dang near no rust at all. Rockers are solid. Frame is solid. Was undercoated and Rust Proofed with the first owner according to the CarFax. Once I finished, I told the salesman I'd be in touch.
I went back yesterday with the wife and did a test drive. It surged on braking. So, I'm assuming Pads and Rotors are the culprit. Second issue was corrosion on the battery posts. May be able to skate around getting new batteries for a few months, but the other issue is the tires are two different sets. Tread pattern has probably around 50% life left. I know dealers avoid putting on new tires because they will never get their money back on them. Also, the DVD Player is not functional (18 years old, kind of figured it would not). Steering has some play in it, and I know it can be helped with a turn on the steering box, upgrading the springs and shocks as well as adding a better stabilizer bar. Seeing as these issues, do you think the price is right? I've been haggling back and forth in regards to price.
I offered $13.5K because of the Brakes, Tires, and Batteries. They declined, but said they would get the mechanic back on to fix the brakes, and would allow me to purchase tires at their dealer discount price ($525-$550 for 10ply, Load Range E, All-Terrains). So, with that being said, would you figure a 165K Mile, 7.3 Excursion be worth it for 14.5K? Or walk and keep hunting?
Clearly and tips and pointers would be helpful. If he says they "Fixed" the brakes, I'll go back up for another test drive to see if they are true to their word.
(I currently drive an '03 Ram 3500 with the 5.9 Common Rail)
Tall Timbers: I too wish Ford made the Excursion. It would be the only thing I believe I would ever buy brand new.
ArmyLifer: I've actually read through your entire build thread, and if I remember reading correctly, you had right around the same mileage when you purchased? Your build has been a pretty good guide on what to expect and how much.
I'm very close to jumping on it. My biggest concern is having them rectify the brakes before purchase. The Sales Rep. stated that it will be in their Service Dept today for the Mech's to go over it. Once I get the word that it is all set, I'll be up there for another test drive and then on to hashing out a deal.
Of course, if they do not rectify the issue, after saying they did. I'd walk away and shred the check. Then bide my time and keep looking. I'll be posting updates.
I personally wouldn't walk away because of the brakes. That is a simple and relatively cheap fix, considering the cost of the vehicle. Good luck with the purchase!
VQ or VP? I was in VQ-2 for a tour when they were in Rota back in the 90s.
I was with VP-69. I was up there on Whidbey when they decommed VQ2. I've been on Shore Duty in Ohio for two years, and man, I really miss the noise of those old T56 Engines.
I'm just waiting on a response from the dealer. If I do not have a response by 4PM, I'll be reaching out again. The wife is more concerned about the brakes than I am, just because we'll be florida bound on Leave come the 31st. The tires are two different matching sets, but tread is good enough to get by for a 2,000 mile round trip. Would be a great "test" for it.
I'll be keeping this post updated. I already have a check in hand from the bank ready to go. Just waiting on a response.
We paid about the same for an '02 Limited with 60,000 more miles than that in Colorado back in 2015.
I'd be all over that thing if all the electronics are straight. Ours had several wiring issues we never got resolved. We were just glad to have it. They're a gold standard and doing a little maintenance yourself right away is cheap insurance.
Don't let those brakes hold you back. You could do them yourself in about 2-3 hours with Powerstops and that's with beer involved. Simple with hand tools.
Others read this thread, don't miss it.
We paid about the same for an '02 Limited with 60,000 more miles than that in Colorado back in 2015.
I'd be all over that thing if all the electronics are straight. Ours had several wiring issues we never got resolved. We were just glad to have it. They're a gold standard and doing a little maintenance yourself right away is cheap insurance.
I’m assuming you love it? Even through the troubles? But this also helps assure me the price is right.
So, quick update: Sales Rep. stated that they pulled it into the shop. Once it is out, he’ll let me know, and I’ll take it on a second drive, then come up with a deal. Im eager to pull the trigger, but if I can get them to knock out the brakes on their dime, I’m okay with that fully. If the brakes aren’t recrified, well, I’ll still pull the trigger. In the meantime, I’m indulging with flavored water called “Labatt’s Blue”
Don't let those brakes hold you back. You could do them yourself in about 2-3 hours with Powerstops and that's with beer involved. Simple with hand tools.
Others read this thread, don't miss it.
Aye. No matter if rectified or not, I’ll pull the trigger. Wife probably wont be too happy if the brakes are fixed. That’s what she has been on about, and I dont blame her. Plus side, is a full front and rear brake kit from Rock Auto runs around $450, and hell, I have the Motor Pool. Just gotta give the Marines a heads up, and I’ll have free reigns to all the goodies in there for tools on a weekend.
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