DECISION TIME
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From: coldwater Michigan
DECISION TIME
ok....recently had engine trouble.... Had to put in new starter after changing fuel filters oil and air filter.
Engine started but running with a knock on top at the back ....before I got the chance to shut it off it shut down ...I went to turn it over but engine is locked up .
Starter installed correctly.
Before this I'll explain why I changed filters and oil.
I was driving on freeway for about an hour when the engine started running rough or sluggish...
Figured I got bad fuel so I turned around and went home.
herein lies the decision time ....do I replace the engine or get a new truck?
Engine started but running with a knock on top at the back ....before I got the chance to shut it off it shut down ...I went to turn it over but engine is locked up .
Starter installed correctly.
Before this I'll explain why I changed filters and oil.
I was driving on freeway for about an hour when the engine started running rough or sluggish...
Figured I got bad fuel so I turned around and went home.
herein lies the decision time ....do I replace the engine or get a new truck?
Last edited by iwsmitty25; Mar 19, 2018 at 08:11 AM. Reason: Forgot the reason for post ...
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From: West Michigan
What year truck is this? Problem with not fixing it first, is the trade/sell value will probably go down more than the cost of the repair. Is it a 2011 that fell into the bad exhaust valve date range?
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From: coldwater Michigan
That's a possibility..... It's a 2011 with 310k miles on her.
I've only pulled my friends' RVs and my own
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From: coldwater Michigan
what or where do I find the date range on the bad exhaust valves?
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From: West Michigan
So 2011's with a build date prior to 3/30/2011 had the suspect exhaust valves that are known to come apart. After that date, the design was modified. We are starting to see more reports of these as they age. It's only a guess that is your problem, wouldnt know until torn diags could be performed. After that, I guess you do have a decision to make. Depending on what they find you have several options, including looking for an engine out of a wreck, new replacement short/long block, or buy something newer. I guess it all depends on your financial situation.
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From: West Michigan
Sorry, our posts crossed. You can search this forum, as it has been discussed. There is some confusion about it, as the diagnostic procedure required the tech to pull the glow plug looking for damage from the valve coming apart in the cylinder. Many folks interpreted that as the glow plug itself failed, causing the problem. There is a TSB floating around about the issue, that is just a service bulletin, to help the tech's, not a formal recall. My personal opinion, is that there should have been a recall. personally, I traded my 2011 in, as it fell into the date range before it was out of warranty for this very reason. Not that that helps you in your case.
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From: coldwater Michigan
So 2011's with a build date prior to 3/30/2011 had the suspect exhaust valves that are known to come apart. After that date, the design was modified. We are starting to see more reports of these as they age. It's only a guess that is your problem, wouldnt know until torn diags could be performed. After that, I guess you do have a decision to make. Depending on what they find you have several options, including looking for an engine out of a wreck, new replacement short/long block, or buy something newer. I guess it all depends on your financial situation.
Any problems with the 2016 F350 diesel I should be aware of ?
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Logistics Pro
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From: West Michigan
I've got 45K on the clock of my 2016, and it has not been in the shop once. The 2015's and up have the better turbo amongst other minor modifications. I intentionally bought the last year before the redesign, and am glad I did, although the guys in the 2017's and up are having good results too. I jumped onto the first year of the 6.7 bandwagon with the 2011, and that will be the last time I do that. If you buy a used one, bring it in to the dealer to have them flash the latest calibration, as somewhere along the line in late 2015/early 2016 they change the regen to be done from all 8 cylinders, vs just one bank, as well as lowering the max temp that the regens occur at. My impression is that has made a big difference in reducing a lot of the sensor failures, etc that we were seeing in the earlier years. I believe that calibration change was pushed back to the earlier model year 6.7's as well.
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From: coldwater Michigan
I've got 45K on the clock of my 2016, and it has not been in the shop once. The 2015's and up have the better turbo amongst other minor modifications. I intentionally bought the last year before the redesign, and am glad I did, although the guys in the 2017's and up are having good results too. I jumped onto the first year of the 6.7 bandwagon with the 2011, and that will be the last time I do that. If you buy a used one, bring it in to the dealer to have them flash the latest calibration, as somewhere along the line in late 2015/early 2016 they change the regen to be done from all 8 cylinders, vs just one bank, as well as lowering the max temp that the regens occur at. My impression is that has made a big difference in reducing a lot of the sensor failures, etc that we were seeing in the earlier years. I believe that calibration change was pushed back to the earlier model year 6.7's as well.
Thank you.... That may be a big help for sure as I'm looking at a 16 with 84k miles on her and a long bed with the gooseneck and 5th wheel receivers already installed. $49k
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From: coldwater Michigan
I'm also looking at a 17 dually with 34k miles for $47.4 out the door without the gooseneck/5th wheel assembly in Florida
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From: coldwater Michigan
one is FX4 AND THE OTHER IS JUST 4x4
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From: coldwater Michigan
I am a little skeptical of the Florida truck even though it's a rental company because of flooding last year down there from hurricane Irma
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