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Lost for words. P0171

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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 08:41 PM
  #16  
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I have bought the BAFX and the Forscan software. I'm getting a 1537 code. The intake has been replaced and the IMRC has been replaced. I'm wondering if the IMRC is just a bad one. Or do I need to have the PCM checked? It runs good going down the interstate. At idle the RPM's go up and down and it will rock the truck a little. It still has a little hesitation sometimes, Sometimes the trans will shift hard and other times it's like butter, so smooth. All I've read so far points to the IMRC stuck open. Is there a way I can bypass this just to check if it's bad? Still learning the software. Thank You.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 09:20 PM
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OK, maybe review the "Tech Note" video here https://www.engine-codes.com/p1537_ford.html & be sure to check the condition of Both vacuum lines & their fit to the IMRC solenoid & to their other end connection points, along with the IMRC solenoid electrical connector wires/pins/sockets for damage & let us know what you find. The solenoid & both vacuum lines are common problem parts, so belong on your suspect list.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 09:27 PM
  #18  
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Thank you pawpaw. I already ran across that tech note in one of my searches. I will inspect the lines and wires in the morning. I'll post what I find.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 12:32 AM
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Have a look at this video also.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:25 AM
  #20  
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Well fordsincebirth how is the troubleshoot going, 696 curious minds would kike to know?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:00 PM
  #21  
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Oh yes, so I inspected the vacuum lines and connections all around the IMRC. Found nothing. With both the Intake and IMRC being replaced I thought about trying to replace the IMRC with another one hoping it might have been a bad one. But I came back to the conclusion that I had paid Ford to diagnose the problem in the first place and it still was not fixed, so I contacted the service manager about my service record. They told me to bring it back in and they would give me a loaner vehicle at no cost. So last Monday I took it back and am still waiting to hear back from them. I don’t know what the outcome will be but will wait for their call. They said they might have to get Ford Engineering involved to find the problem. We’ll see. I’ve read so much information on the codes that I get frustrated. I appreciate the info on both the ELM and FORscan. Those are some nice tools to have on your side. Thanks all.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:19 PM
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Ok good feedback.
It's possible there is a mechanical problem internally with the intake runner damper being stuck closed, or its spring being detached, or broken.
Will be interesting to hear what they think/find is wrong.
So you never tried the replacement IMRC control solenoid you purchased, before taking it back to the Ford Dealer?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:35 PM
  #23  
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No I didn't replace The IMRC a second time. The intake may have to be removed to check internally.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:42 PM
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If you can move the part by hand, without difficulty, that the IMRC solenoid is supposed to be actuating, then the IMRC solenoid itself, or a vacuum line to it, or the electrical signal to the IMRC solenoid, or some combination thereof, likely has a problem.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 10:00 PM
  #25  
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EDIT: Double post
 
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Old May 2, 2018 | 09:06 PM
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Update?

Hi all,
I know it's only been a few days - have you heard back on what might be the cause? I too have started registering the dreaded P0171 but have only started monkeying with it. Cleaned the MAF, replaced plugs, wires and coil. Began chasing all the stupid little (and big) vacuum lines, looking for leaks. Replaced brake booster line and plug assembly as it was loose there - seemed to have corrected the occasional soft pedal I was experiencing so there's one thing that got better at least... today replaced the fuel vapor line that runs from the top of the intake to under the manifold and connects on the driver side to some sort of small vacuum module. That line was so bad the rubber was deteriorating in my hands although I didn't *see* any cracks.... Won't know until tomorrow if I found my problem yet as it usually takes a few miles of driving a warmed-up engine to kick that light on. Been reading up on this, and it seems to be a trouble for more than a few of us... Although, this afternoon when I was lying under there trying to guess how old the fuel filter might be I noticed evidence of two exhaust leaks - one just past the cat where the pipe bolts into another pipe to the muffler and then at the base of that second pipe into the muffler. Irritated about the PCV valve, but I guess it has to be done, or at least looked at to see if it's even been replaced recently.

I've had the truck for 3 years, purchased it with 112K miles now have 129k miles on it. It was formerly a fleet vehicle for the state of Utah (or Colorado, can't remember which), so I'm fairly confident the maintenance was done regularly - at least, that's what they tell you about fleet vehicles... I'm pretty confident in my ability to do a lot of stuff, but I'm not equipped to take apart the motor. At some point, if I can't figure it out I am going to have to take it in but if I can eliminate as many things as possible I would like to. Due to the age and mileage I consider a lot of what I am doing under "needs to be done" so it isn't as big a deal to replace the things I am replacing *except* I can't keep chasing the problem either. In the long run this can cause a worse problem. So, I read these threads to help in the troubleshooting process.

Truck runs fine first thing in the day on my way to work - about 10 miles - but if I have to take an extra trip then it eventually chokes hard under acceleration. It runs even better after sitting with the battery disconnected while I tinker. Then it slides back into trying to give me whiplash...

2006 Ranger 2.3L RWD, 5spd @129k miles
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #27  
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Well well. The dealer had for three weeks. I picked up today, not fixed. No charge and am trying to get credit for their first invoice. Wish me luck on that! So the ranger still runs the same way. No power on throttle, rough idle in gear, seems to run worse after it warms up. Then chokes out trying to start up again. If I’m lucky and hold the gas to the floor it might start otherwise I have to wait for it to cool down… So I got home and hooked up my new ELM tool with FORScan. Wow, code 1512 comes up again. They told me they tried all kinds of things short of just starting to replace parts. Now I think I have a spark knock. It isn’t always there. I’m so over this crap. You would think the dealer would be able to figure it out. I’ll wait for it to cool down then run the scans again. One thing they told me was if they applied vacuum to the IMRC then the chocking would go away? So is that the ECM? I’ve said before that the intake and the IMRC have been replaced. One other thing, the thermostat was replaced and ELM is reading 235 but the dash reads normal? So far the P0171 hasn't come back. Thank you all
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 01:48 PM
  #28  
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I meant to add after reading feeniks4.9 post; it reminded me of what happen to me. At one time I disconnected the battery to take the PCM out in order to get the part #’s of it. Then found out that it had already be replace at one time, but after I reinstalled both the ranger seemed to run perfect for about 5 miles or so. Throttle and shifting were like right on. I might try that again. Makes me wonder if the PCM is bad.
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 08:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fordsincebirth
Well well. The dealer had for three weeks. I picked up today, not fixed. No charge and am trying to get credit for their first invoice. Wish me luck on that! So the ranger still runs the same way. No power on throttle, rough idle in gear, seems to run worse after it warms up. Then chokes out trying to start up again. If I’m lucky and hold the gas to the floor it might start otherwise I have to wait for it to cool down… So I got home and hooked up my new ELM tool with FORScan. Wow, code 1512 comes up again. They told me they tried all kinds of things short of just starting to replace parts. Now I think I have a spark knock. It isn’t always there. I’m so over this crap. You would think the dealer would be able to figure it out. I’ll wait for it to cool down then run the scans again. One thing they told me was if they applied vacuum to the IMRC then the chocking would go away? So is that the ECM? I’ve said before that the intake and the IMRC have been replaced. One other thing, the thermostat was replaced and ELM is reading 235 but the dash reads normal? So far the P0171 hasn't come back. Thank you all
Maybe if you don't get any more trouble code clues with a new ELM scan, put together what the Dealer told you about their finding when applying vacuum to the IMRC control, along with a review of the thoughts in post #24 & see if you can perform some more tests there that'll help narrow down your drill down trouble shooting testing. Keep in mind you may have more than one problem & having the ELM/FORScan combo watching whats going on with fuel trim when it acts out, may also shed some light on other factors mudding the trouble shooting waters.
Also keep in mind if you come up with more than one trouble code, we're supposed to fix/put right, the root cause of the Lowest trouble code numbers First, then work our way up the list. Let the trouble codes be your guide on what to do First.
If you don't have any more code clues, then the problem is being caused by something the computer Isn't monitoring, like a vacuum leak, or a clogged air filter, or maybe a clogged intake air tube, like maybe a varmint has built a nest behind the inner fender liner that's choking off air flow at throttle up, or maybe a fuel pressure drop, or wimpy fuel pump delivery rate.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 08:09 PM
  #30  
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Next I tried disconnecting both vacuum line from the IMRC and plugged them both, that didn't seem to make a difference. then I connected them both together, same thing. I was getting a vacuum from the intake side. still getting the p1537. The ELM is reading The IMRC at 2.49 volts.
 
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