Alternator charge cable
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Alternator charge cable
Upgrading the alternator to a 130 amp version. Want to upgrade the charging cable too. Have a 4 gauge cable with fusible link. Any reason I can't run the charging cable directly from the alternator to the battery? Factory cable runs to the fender solenoid.
1994 F150 5.0
1994 F150 5.0
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Thank you sir. Any reason not to stick with the 4 gauge cable? I am also upgrading the battery cables to 1/0, and have plans for a pretty beefy stereo in my future. Figured bigger is better.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
So I did my upgrade today - new 130 amp alternator, 1/0 battery cables, 4 gauge charge cable with 8 gauge fusible link running straight to the battery, military terminals, etc.
Only problem I have is that the voltage gauge is reading low. Like 10v instead of the usual 14 when it is running. This has caused the battery light to light up. I double checked all of my connections and let it run for awhile to see if it would die. Shut it off and started up a few times and it cranked every time like a raped ape. Took it for a spin around the block and it drove great.
I need to check the voltage on the terminals while it is running (buddy has my DMM), but I am suspecting the new TYC alternator has a buggy voltage regulator. I was wondering if I could take the old one off my 95 amp original motorcraft alternator and just slap it on there and see if it solves the problem. The new alternator is TYC brand 2-07768.
Only problem I have is that the voltage gauge is reading low. Like 10v instead of the usual 14 when it is running. This has caused the battery light to light up. I double checked all of my connections and let it run for awhile to see if it would die. Shut it off and started up a few times and it cranked every time like a raped ape. Took it for a spin around the block and it drove great.
I need to check the voltage on the terminals while it is running (buddy has my DMM), but I am suspecting the new TYC alternator has a buggy voltage regulator. I was wondering if I could take the old one off my 95 amp original motorcraft alternator and just slap it on there and see if it solves the problem. The new alternator is TYC brand 2-07768.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Note that the 1994 Ambulance uses 2GA wire with the 130amp alternator and no fusible link in the circuit.
The 1994 F53 uses 6GA wire with a 12GA fusible link with the 130amp alternator.
The 1994 F-series with a 95amp uses 8GA wire with a 12GA fusible link.
After doing some reading the fusible link is to protect the wiring harness and not the alternator (Generator).
The 1994 F53 uses 6GA wire with a 12GA fusible link with the 130amp alternator.
The 1994 F-series with a 95amp uses 8GA wire with a 12GA fusible link.
After doing some reading the fusible link is to protect the wiring harness and not the alternator (Generator).
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
How does the dash gauge receive its voltage reading? I am assuming it is from the voltage regulator on the alternator itself - the actual unit that has the receivers for the plugs.
The truck runs like normal - I haven't gone out today yet to try and start it up so knock on wood. The voltage gauge reads steady at 10-ish volts, and does not waver from KOEO to KOER. Lights are bright, everything works as it should.
I guess I am just looking for how to diagnose it most efficiently. I'll get my DMM back today and measure. If it is as I suspect and I get proper readings while off/running, should I assume something on the regulator on the new alternator is bunk? Can I swap out my old one from my 95 amp alternator or is that a bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
The truck runs like normal - I haven't gone out today yet to try and start it up so knock on wood. The voltage gauge reads steady at 10-ish volts, and does not waver from KOEO to KOER. Lights are bright, everything works as it should.
I guess I am just looking for how to diagnose it most efficiently. I'll get my DMM back today and measure. If it is as I suspect and I get proper readings while off/running, should I assume something on the regulator on the new alternator is bunk? Can I swap out my old one from my 95 amp alternator or is that a bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 567
Likes: 2
How does the dash gauge receive its voltage reading? I am assuming it is from the voltage regulator on the alternator itself - the actual unit that has the receivers for the plugs.
The truck runs like normal - I haven't gone out today yet to try and start it up so knock on wood. The voltage gauge reads steady at 10-ish volts, and does not waver from KOEO to KOER. Lights are bright, everything works as it should.
I guess I am just looking for how to diagnose it most efficiently. I'll get my DMM back today and measure. If it is as I suspect and I get proper readings while off/running, should I assume something on the regulator on the new alternator is bunk? Can I swap out my old one from my 95 amp alternator or is that a bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
The truck runs like normal - I haven't gone out today yet to try and start it up so knock on wood. The voltage gauge reads steady at 10-ish volts, and does not waver from KOEO to KOER. Lights are bright, everything works as it should.
I guess I am just looking for how to diagnose it most efficiently. I'll get my DMM back today and measure. If it is as I suspect and I get proper readings while off/running, should I assume something on the regulator on the new alternator is bunk? Can I swap out my old one from my 95 amp alternator or is that a bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
What did you do with those two or three small wires that plugged into the old alternator? If you hooked those up to the new alternator, it may just be a bad connection making it think it's only puting out 10v. I don't think it would start right up like that for you if the battery were weak and not getting charged. I called it a dummy gauge because I don't think this generation trucks have real gauges, its just on or off essentially.
swapping back to the old alternator entirely and seeing what happs would help diagnose for sure, but labor intensive.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Your DMM (multimeter) will tell you exactly what you need to know. I am guessing your dummy gauge is lying to you, but I could be wrong.
What did you do with those two or three small wires that plugged into the old alternator? If you hooked those up to the new alternator, it may just be a bad connection making it think it's only puting out 10v. I don't think it would start right up like that for you if the battery were weak and not getting charged. I called it a dummy gauge because I don't think this generation trucks have real gauges, its just on or off essentially.
swapping back to the old alternator entirely and seeing what happs would help diagnose for sure, but labor intensive.
What did you do with those two or three small wires that plugged into the old alternator? If you hooked those up to the new alternator, it may just be a bad connection making it think it's only puting out 10v. I don't think it would start right up like that for you if the battery were weak and not getting charged. I called it a dummy gauge because I don't think this generation trucks have real gauges, its just on or off essentially.
swapping back to the old alternator entirely and seeing what happs would help diagnose for sure, but labor intensive.
I'll get the DMM back today (hopefully) and test. If all of the voltage comes back with the correct readings both running and not, then I just need to figure out why the gauge is not working with this setup when it was perfectly fine with the old one.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
After finally getting my DMM back and testing, it was pretty apparent that I had good voltage at the battery, but the alternator was not charging the system. After swapping back in the old alternator, but keeping the new cables, the system still would not charge. So there was a lot of cursing. I replaced the new alternator charge cable with the factory cable to the starter relay, and BAM 14.8v while running.
So I am fairly certain the new charge cable is bunk - further testing to be done today.
So I am fairly certain the new charge cable is bunk - further testing to be done today.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Which one? Looks like there are 2 from what I can see. My ignorance is strong reading wiring diagrams.
New alternator and battery cables are in and the system charges fine with the old charge cable for now. I tested continuity on the new charge cable itself and it is also fine, so my guess is that I am missing something that you are trying to tell me with that diagram, like somehow the ability of the system to sense the correct voltage, or to activate the alternator, is somehow tied up in that factory charge cable. Right now I haven't added any new components to the system to cause a stress compared to the old system, so the factory charge cable will do for the moment, I think
Took her out for a spin for about 20 miles and all seems well. The starter sounds brand new - never sounded so good.
New alternator and battery cables are in and the system charges fine with the old charge cable for now. I tested continuity on the new charge cable itself and it is also fine, so my guess is that I am missing something that you are trying to tell me with that diagram, like somehow the ability of the system to sense the correct voltage, or to activate the alternator, is somehow tied up in that factory charge cable. Right now I haven't added any new components to the system to cause a stress compared to the old system, so the factory charge cable will do for the moment, I think
Took her out for a spin for about 20 miles and all seems well. The starter sounds brand new - never sounded so good.