Upgrading to a SD250
I went from a diesel 3/4 ton to a gas powered truck 1/2 ton for fuel economy reasons. Towing the camper with the 3/4 ton was easy and no "white knuckle" experiences due to a stiffer suspension and pulling power of the diesel. Loved the the fuel economy for my daily commutes but dreaded pulling the camper for those reasons already stated and how hard the truck was working to make it up hills.
The other things that need to be considered when buying a diesel vs gas motor, one item is applicable to both, is distance and type of daily commute.
A) Stop and go traffic and short distance. Can the engine reach normal operating temp?
B) How often does/do you get on the highway ?
Be it gas or diesel, an engines oil needs to reach operating temp to "cook" off the impurities in the oil, water etc.. When you drive short stop and go distances regularly this cannot happen and the oil needs changed at shorter intervals. They call that "severe" conditions in your manual along with regular towing which raises oil temp and breaks down the oil faster.
Modern diesel engines have the added issue of emission controls designed to operate at cruising speeds which need to be fairly steady. These are the DPF and SCR system.
If you short commute all the time and rarely have a steady cruising speed for extended periods then the DPF cannot regenerate. Other issues I have seen are clogged EGR coolers from excessive soot and SCR faults.
We run both city tractors and road tractors with these systems and the city units that never run the highway and idle excessively, require us to "force regenerate" the DPF system every two or three days. The road units can passively regenerate, that is to say do it as they are cruising. Ford system relies on passive regeneration to keep both DPF and the SCR clean as do GM and FCA.
Several guys in the shop have short hops to work everyday in their 6.7 trucks but take weekend highway trips and on occasion remove the DPF and blow the soot out. Unless your a mechanic and have access to the place and tools to do this, not a typical option.
Hope that helps somewhat. I know for me, I missed my diesel for many reasons and with my 2017 6.7 getting about 19 mpg combined, the fuel costs are less than $10 a week more and when I need to pull a tree out of the ground I can do that too!
And besides, we have no hurricanes in my part of the country.
My thoughts are that if you tow heavy and tow often, get the diesel. Daily drive it and tow occasionally, then get the gas as long as what you tow is in spec. The 4.30 rear end makes the gasser quite spunky around town.
In my neck of the woods, diesel techs are extremely busy and they carry a shop rate of about $100+/hr. Oil and filter changes cost more, and initial expenditure is more. Comes down to whether you want it or need it; there isn't a wrong answer.
On an aside, my commute is 2.5 miles to my office. The facilities that I service are no more than about 7 miles from there. With winter temps that dip to -40, a diesel wouldn't even have a chance to warm up. And I'd have to manually regen or take a road trip. There would be no fuel savings for me, higher per gallon fuel costs, higher maintenance costs, and no real benefit. This is why my daily driver is a 15 year old toyota, by the way.
Best of luck with your shopping. Gas or diesel, you can't go wrong with a new Super duty.
Ten seconds to give people considering the same question a factual basis for the discussion rather than a "ballpark" figure? That's just being a helpful contributor to the site. No biggie.
Sticker difference on the build site is $8995. You cite invoice. Semantics.
Looking back, Ive been on the highway twice this year since January, maybe 3 times. This time of year I don't drive a lot of
highway miles. In this time period all of my miles have been city driving and my drive to work is about 4.5 miles, anywhere from
25 to 40 mph.
and because of that how often im i going to have to do a manual regen, Once or twice a week? and for what length of time.
From what I understand I cant do a manual regen and lock the truck up, walk away and assume the truck will shut its self off
and leave the doors locked when its done. Unless somehow this is a option.
So guess that means sitting in the truck until its finished. So how long does that normally take? 10 minutes 20-30 minutes.
I don't know if Ive got 30 minutes of my day where I just want to sit in a truck for no reason for a regen to work.
Someone suggested doing a 'high idle mod' so that when starting in the winters it would idle faster and help a bit, but not
sure what this involves and what it would do to my warranty.
Thanks
.
Its my daily driver, I don't tow with it yet. My commute is 10 miles. The engine is a beast I love that it will break the rear tires loose doing 40mph. The Ford 5 liter is a joke in comparison, the Ram hemi would beat it off the line but when the Ram starts gasping for air at high RPM's that's when the Ford diesel is entering BEAST mode. That's the big difference to me between my previous gas V8's and this diesel, top end is HUGE get some!
I have the Ford 8 year/125k mile warranty so cost of repairs is not a concern. But lets say it needs a new engine just past that warranty, so what. That would cost a fraction of what a new truck would cost which will be close to $100k by then. Worse case drop a new engine in and keep on trucking. My plan B is to sell at 7 years/100k miles giving the new owner a 1 year/25k mile warranty as the warranty will transfer. If I were buying a truck that's 7 years old with 100k miles a 1 year/25k mile Ford warranty would be really attractive vs no warranty on other trucks for sale in that range right.
That's my 2 cents worth.









