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Originally posted by AlM that odor has me wondering about any sounds you might have heard at the same time; such as a screech from the belt?
Hey AlM, what did you have in mind when you mentioned this? I am starting to wonder if something is wrong with my pulleys or something. Let me know thanks.
yo AU,
I was thinking of a frozen belt tensioner; ths the serp. belt could be smokin' at higher speeds. Run it and watch the belt w/a/c on or cycling.
Of course, the simple things could be a courtesy or brake light stays on (brake if the brake switch is out-of-adjustment).
Ok i just checked out the engine with the AC running...the chirpping noise got louder but all the pulleys we turning and the belt doesn't seem to have any wear. some of the pulleys seemed to have a wobble in them but it look like it was in rythm with the engine. I still can't pinpoint the chirp from in the cab it sounds like it is coming from right under my feet or right behind the firewall...but from the outside it sounds kinda like its from the front. So basically I have no idea whats up.
Yea the electrical thing is wierd there was absolutely nothing on in the truck. I don't know what happened but i have a feeling it was a realy or something like that getting stuck open.
I will look into the pulleys when I get back from a weekend in New Orleans.
Check to see if your new exhaust setup is too close to the radius arm bushings. The heat generated from the exhaust will melt the bushing...usually the front bushing.
I don't know if the set up is the same on the newer trucks, but on my 81 the mount for the smog pump was cracked to the point that the pump leaned formard, and that slowly ruined the pulleys on both the pump and the alt. My battery was getting less of a charge each day, until finally it got no charge. Also, the exhaust smell was different for me due to the smog pump pulley wobbling and not operating the pump.
The AC Amp setting on your meter will NOT measure the DC current you need to measure here. You need a meter with a DC Amp setting. You can also burn up a meter quick using it to measure current and you pass too much thru it. Make sure it is a fuse protected meter with a 10 or 20 Amp DC current setting.
The test light method will not work on modern vehicles with constant current draw devices like the radio memory and computer modules. Unless you figure out how to disconnect those circuits for testing. Both of those circuits will show a drain. If the short is on one of those circuits the only way you can tell is with the meter.
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