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Ford did a really s**tty job with this engine, IMHO.
I hear and feel your frustration but at the same time the information you seek is available with the right equipment. Test equipment is just like socket and wrench sets. There are ones that do basic work and more expensive ones that do more extensive work, it just takes time to acquire all of the tools you might need or want.
I hear and feel your frustration but at the same time the information you seek is available with the right equipment. Test equipment is just like socket and wrench sets. There are ones that do basic work and more expensive ones that do more extensive work, it just takes time to acquire all of the tools you might need or want.
Absolutely - there's no way to work on a modern engine without it. It's not like you can turn a screw and listen to see what happens, or pull a wire off to see if it makes a difference. Mode 6 is the "behind the curtain" stuff I was looking for, so huge thanks to everyone here for turning me onto it.
But, I stand by my criticism: Ford did a poor job setting up the "front end" on the ECM programming for this engine. If a problem is causing a noticeable drivability issue then that should definitely be something that "shows up" as a code. In my case, I should have been getting a "random/multiple cylinder misfire" for months, but the truck wouldn't register a code and it clears pending codes. I know this only because I looked at it twice in the space of an hour and there was a cylinder 7 misfire and pending codes for "random/multiple" and several other specific cylinder misfires, but when I re-checked it again later everything was gone except for the Cylinder 7 code. This also explains previous times when the check engine light would flash and then go out, and there was no pending code when I checked it.
So owners are left "throwing parts at it" - replacing everything one at a time chasing the problem. Unless they get the red pill and learn to look into the Matrix and see what's really happening in there.
Add to this the unfortunate spark plug issues, plugs blowing out, the difficulty of removing the factory plugs, and then getting them tight enough to seal again after a change, and there's no denying there are many very disgruntled owners of the 5.4L. Which is a real pity, because when it's working well it's a fine engine.
You post a lot for a guy who has nothing to say and contributes zero to the conversation.
I've told you everything you NEED to know, you just don't want to hear or accept it but instead wish to continue whining about what you perceive as Ford's shortcomings. These parameters are all in the OBDII technician specification industry-wide, it was not exactly Ford's decision to make on their own.
No, that's not what the computer says, the computer isn't saying anything since the problem isn't severe enough to set the fault condition.
So if the computer doesn't show a fault condition, it's telling the user that everything is "A-OK" so he IS correct in saying the computer shows all is ok. Once again, you're wrong. But based on past posts, you will NEVER admit when you're wrong.
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
I've told you everything you NEED to know, you just don't want to hear or accept it but instead wish to continue whining about what you perceive as Ford's shortcomings. These parameters are all in the OBDII technician specification industry-wide, it was not exactly Ford's decision to make on their own.
Good luck.
No, in this case, your "help" has not helped, only antagonize. Stop the madness.
I'll give my $.02 to the tech side, plus this tidbit: Everyone calm the F down.
I'm surprised no one has actually offered any real advice so far.
Check the fuel pressure under load. After all the other stuff you've already done, there's almost (ALMOST!) no other reason it would do this. It can't supply enough fuel to the engine under load.
I believe it should be around 28-30PSI at idle, and 38-40 under load. If it has a vacuum-actuated fuel pressure regulator, let it idle, check the pressure should be 28-30. Then disconnect the vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator and see if it jumps to 38-40. That's the first test. If it passes, move on to the next one:
Under load, where you say it craps out, measure the fuel pressure. If it can't maintain 38-40, there's a fuel delivery problem. Either the pump is going bad, or just as likely, it has a voltage problem because of wiring or the fuel pump relay is going bad. Usually when the relay is going bad, it'll make the pump overheat and eventually fail. Whack the tank with a 2x4, and it'll start running again.
You post a lot for a guy who has nothing to say and contributes zero to the conversation.
Just FYI, in your User CP there's an "Ignore" feature you can use to make it so you don't see another users posts. It works well for those who grate on others nerves.
Click your User CP, then on the left side of the web page you'll see the Control Panel Pane. The third box or section down is titled, Settings & Options, and the last choice there is Edit Ignore List. Click that.
I'll give my $.02 to the tech side, plus this tidbit: Everyone calm the F down.
I'm surprised no one has actually offered any real advice so far.
Check the fuel pressure under load. After all the other stuff you've already done, there's almost (ALMOST!) no other reason it would do this. It can't supply enough fuel to the engine under load.
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