460 cam options help
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460 cam options help
hey guy i got a 1976 f 250 highboy with a 460.
need help on cam opnions
right now the motor has a thumpr and its garbage...im in the process of redoing the motor. 10:8:1 compression....eddelbrock aluminum heads, roller rockers, eddy intake, 850 holley, and the whole 9.... wondering if the edelbrock rpm cam is good or not. ive hearn rumors they are junk. they have a 300 duration 5.80 lift and a 108 lobe sep
need help on cam opnions
right now the motor has a thumpr and its garbage...im in the process of redoing the motor. 10:8:1 compression....eddelbrock aluminum heads, roller rockers, eddy intake, 850 holley, and the whole 9.... wondering if the edelbrock rpm cam is good or not. ive hearn rumors they are junk. they have a 300 duration 5.80 lift and a 108 lobe sep
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Eddy products IMHO are just middle of the road...there is nothing really good or bad about them.......Considering the cam has such critical importance to the engines performance and life, to me it makes sense to use a cam grinder who will talk with you directly- even modify the cam grind to fit your needs even better and to address the possibility of cam lobe failure with the new oils. When it comes to making an engine breathe, there are so many variables including elevation, humidity, fuel blends/available octane, most cam mfgs will vary a "core grind pattern" to match the external impactors in addition to the internal impactors- which today IMHO makes the different between and engine that runs well, to one that just seems to run a little bit better, smoother and gets better mileage than expected. With regards to price...the difference is nil- especially considering its cheap insurance to know exactly who is machining such a critical part for your engine. And remember, advertised lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertised and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. I would also IMHO avoid Comp Cams like the plague..... as IMHO Comp is a mass production (McDonald's type) company which - seems to have experience more cam lobe failures than most and places the blame on the low ZDDP in the oils...then experiences valve spring failure, and it just does a cycle.With regards to their cams billets, I highly suspect that they are also using Chinese & they do not include (for most of their cams) Parkerizing their cams unless you want to pay extra for it (Parkerizing is the final step and a crucial step to help break the cam in- a heated acid bath that microscopically etches the metal surface and adds a very thin layer of graphite coating which allows the cam lube to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during cam break in) unless you specifically request and pay additional money for it. However, If the cam is cut on Comps 8620 core and has a copper colored base to it, you should be OK. If it looks like a standard silver / metal camshaft all throughout you probably got one of their cheaper 5150 cores that won't last 20K miles before wiping out and failing- IMHO. and BTW the 8620 cores run $400+.
While there are some cam failures cause by start-up/break-in error, cam lobes that are of a street type profile should not be completely worn out in 10,000-30,000 miles- and while just about every cam mfg recommends adding ZDDP (and sells) to the oil, I still highly suspect Parkerizing is not done by some and the billets are of Chinese origin with inferior properties, specifically low carbon- which would explain the proneness to lobe failure (lack of carbon reduces the harness of the steel)
hope this helps...........
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. I would also IMHO avoid Comp Cams like the plague..... as IMHO Comp is a mass production (McDonald's type) company which - seems to have experience more cam lobe failures than most and places the blame on the low ZDDP in the oils...then experiences valve spring failure, and it just does a cycle.With regards to their cams billets, I highly suspect that they are also using Chinese & they do not include (for most of their cams) Parkerizing their cams unless you want to pay extra for it (Parkerizing is the final step and a crucial step to help break the cam in- a heated acid bath that microscopically etches the metal surface and adds a very thin layer of graphite coating which allows the cam lube to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during cam break in) unless you specifically request and pay additional money for it. However, If the cam is cut on Comps 8620 core and has a copper colored base to it, you should be OK. If it looks like a standard silver / metal camshaft all throughout you probably got one of their cheaper 5150 cores that won't last 20K miles before wiping out and failing- IMHO. and BTW the 8620 cores run $400+.
While there are some cam failures cause by start-up/break-in error, cam lobes that are of a street type profile should not be completely worn out in 10,000-30,000 miles- and while just about every cam mfg recommends adding ZDDP (and sells) to the oil, I still highly suspect Parkerizing is not done by some and the billets are of Chinese origin with inferior properties, specifically low carbon- which would explain the proneness to lobe failure (lack of carbon reduces the harness of the steel)
hope this helps...........
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