How does this sound?

Headers
True Dual 3 inch Exhaust
Cam
Throttle Body
MSD Ignition?

Already Have K and N intake

Any other order you guys can have?

Whats best bang for buck without having the truck out of service to long, say 3-4 day projectd at a time.

 

Sounds pretty decent to me, But im not the HP, torque, power guru around here. (not by a looooong shot)

 

sounds good except the cam. changing the cam takes more work than youre planning, and if you dont break it in right itll wipe itself out within the first half hour and then youre stuck getting a new one again. also make sure you put in new lifters, and make sure your valvetrane can handle the new cam or it wont perform as well, also make sure the new cam doesnt affect the pushrod length, and be really careful when you install the cam to not hurt the cam bearings because if you do- youre pretty much tearing the engine out to replace those bearings, and may as well replace all of them while youve got it apart. oh, and while youre in there you may as well replace the timing set- ford used teflon coated gears, and while quiet are not the best for longevity. use a multi-keyway roller timing set and install it straight up or 2 degrees advanced

 

where could I find the right cams and lifters?

Where to find New lifters?
What’s a valvetrane?<O></O>

How will I know if the new cam doesn’t affect the pushrod length?<O></O>

Where Could I find a multi-keyway roller timing?

Lot of questions I know, but when I do get the time to let my guy go to town in this, I want to make sure he can just get in once and never go back. I see Summit Racing has in incredible selection, but the language on that site is very confusing and unmeaningful to my knowledge of the motor, they have the cam sets with lifters, but dont know which ones to get.

 

ok... truck's computerized, so youll need to be careful of what cam you run. im assuming youre wanting to stick with the stock springs/retainers/locks/rocker arms (valvetrane) so youre pretty limited on cam selection... actually i just looked and the only computer compatible cam i was able to find was CCA-34-255-5 at summitracing.com its just a little over stock and will work with stock valvetrane, but with as little over stock as it is i dont know if its worth the price. youll probably only see about a 10-15 horse improvement, and taking the risk of wiping it out for that little gain i wouldnt bother.
as for the timing set CLO-9-3122A should work for you, or if you want one a little cheaper go with CLO-9-3522X9. playing with the timing settings on those timing sets would probably give you more of a power increase than that cam would. now if your truck were, say, 20 years older, and no computer, and didnt care if you swapped out valvetrane, you could put as big of a cam in there as you wanted

 

Looks pretty good.

Just for comparison, here is my first stage of desired mods:

Stage 1
1. L&L Headers
2. 3"(2) to 4" Flowmaster "Y", 4 inch single exhaust (designed for Diesel applications), free flowing 4" core straight through muffler.
3. UD pulley
4. 180* Thermo
5. Throttle body (would a lightning throttle body bolt on to our intake??)
6. K&N with insulated intake tubes
7. Fuel Pressure regulator
8. possibly ingition upgrades, not sure of the worthiness here?


Stage 2
1. Vortech SC kit
OR
1. moderate cam
2. mild head/valve work
3. supporting computer tuning and injector changes

 

I love modding vehicles.

 

So no cam darrin? what types of power would i feel with a new bigger cam? Do i have to change the springs and stuff to? Heads?

 

you cant change the heads if you want to keep fuel injection, as far as i know there are no aftermarket fuelie heads. it depends on what cam you decide on as to wether or not you need to change your springs/retainers/locks/spring seats. if you pick a cam thats close to stock you could get by with all stock valvetrane, but then youd also still get close to stock power out of it, and then its not worth risking wiping the new cam. the bigger the cam the more stuff youll have to change to get the cam to work properly. i think the stock springs are only good for about .500" of lift. im not sure what the fuelie head flow numbers are though. if the fuelie heads have peak flow at .500" then increasing lift beyond that wont help power any. increasing duration will kill low end power but raise peak power. if you increase the duration too much youll need to put a stall converter in. also if you increase duration and/or decrease the lobe separation angle your computer may freak on you. to get proper tuning youll probably have to get a chip made if you change much. its all in what you want to do... but if it were me and had to keep the fuel injection i probably wouldnt bother with a cam unless i were also going to change everything else in the valvetrane, and had the fuelie head flow numbers so i knew where the peak flow was. wherever the peak flow is is where you want your lift to be for max power. i might go a little over stock on duration but i dont like the way a stall converter feels so i wouldnt go much. well... im off to work... good luck

 

Sorry for late response. Wow, thats alot of info, thankyou. Yeah your right, I prob will just stick to basic boltons like headers, throttle body, MSD igntion, ect... That alone will make me happy, and I dont need to invest to much time into the motor. Maybe down the road I will dive into the motor, but for now, I spending more money on this Coolant leak that I have no right to start thinking performance. Friggen lower raditor intake mount is bubbling coolant out of it, and sucking air in. Another $600 for that from the dealer.

 

you know... for that radiator leak you could have probably gotten a nice 2 or 3 part epoxy, pulled the radiator, cleaned it up good, and put the epoxy mix over the leak... fixed the problem for around 10 dollars for the epoxy and around 20 dollars for coolant and around 4 hours of your time... thats what i would have done, but im cheap when it comes to that sort of thing.

 

Yeah, with my personal experience, I would have no right to get into that. The only motors I am comfortable working with are snowmobiles. But that radiator was replaced 2 weeks ago, but i will still feeling the hard starts, brought it back to the dealer, and they confirmed that the lower coolant intake on the motor is leaking, and bubbling, and taking air in, and he said it shouldnt be being driven. So thres another $600 for that tiny job. But the dealer makes me feel most comfortable, because what whinds up happening when I do go anywhere else, they will charge way less, but not even address the problem, and I whind I paying more for getting jobs done that arnt even going to fix the problem. Also, how does information get on to Carfax? Does the dealer put the info up?

 

yep dealers and insurance companies contribute. any time an accident gets reported or someone goes to the dealer to get something fixed it goes into a file on that car, even some national chains contribute... most any time a place records your vin when they do something it goes into that database

 

wow, man....mine must be all messed up, been going all over the place

 

thats why i usually tell people they should try to do their own work, or at least give me a few bucks and have me do it ... most of it isnt hard, it saves money, and if you have to work on it alot- the vehicle doesnt look as bad on the report