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BenchWrench's thread on the Mishi T-stat and seeing Sean's post on the International, got me to looking for an online source for the International T-Stat. I believe mine is getting just slightly weak... In looking around I found this GATES 33958 T-Stat on Rock Auto that is a pretty close, appearance-wise to Internationals Thermostat. For the price, I thought I might give it a try (it definitely looks different than the Dorman unit). So, anybody try one, and???
Yup, I tried the Gates. It looked like a quality part. Brass bleed valve and stuff, but in the end I got similar service to the Ford tstats out of it. It worked well through the fall ( when it was new), winter, summer, but sagged in temp the following winter.
like I said in the other thread, if you’re making it to 185° I think you’re ok. Maybe being a little hotter may make it a little more efficient. If you think about it, we’re using the melting wax to vary the pressure against a spring and measuring the result with a computer. I suspect no two trucks are exactly alike and there’s no magic bullet for everyone. It’s a relatively inexpensive part and easy to change so experiment and find what works best on your truck.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; Mar 1, 2018 at 05:27 PM.
Reason: Add
Yup, I tried the Gates. It looked like a quality part. Brass bleed valve and stuff, but in the end I got similar service to the Ford tstats out of it. It worked well through the fall ( when it was new), winter, summer, but sagged in temp the following winter.
Thanks, it does look good Stainless and brass and 192 degree (I noticed several Ford descriptions say the Ford is a 190 deg unit??) -- I figured I would be the guinea pig and ordered it off Amazon for a whole $16.79, but you beat me to it, heck while I was there I ordered a Motorcraft oil filter -- just seemed like a good price at $17. If the t-stat fails in a year I'll Try IH next.
Scott
This is the one in my reman motor, years of use with no issues. It does not carry any part number, Motorcraft or INT designation, just the build date of March 2010 and its temp range. 89 to 104C, aka 192 to 228F.
I'm running a Stant, it is more consistent than any of the 4 motorcraft I have run. It holds 192-194 empty and 196-198 towing the 5th wheel. all the motorcrafts would vary 15* towing on flat ground, 200-216 was common, when empty they would hold ok, 190-194*.
Since I ended up buying both the Gates and Stant thermostats (installed in housings and the o-rings are included in both), I thought I'd be using the Stant for-sure, based on feedback here. In looking at the two, they are vastly different looking quality-wise. So I thought I'd post up pictures and comments for you all to ponder, along with a hot water test I ran on them and the results. Spoiler alert: I'm sending the Stant back and keeping the Gates.
Stant:
Made in China
Rough casting appearance including casting ridges left
Smaller Valve diameter with smaller sealing surface
O-ring fit loose in housing
Hose seal barb not as sharp or large as Gates
Valve opened wider than Gates
SS cross support only held in by flat part of support and loose fit (you'll see in picts)
bypass valve is SS but hangs up on spring
Initial opening Temp @ 197 deg F
Weight of Housing + T-stat (no o-ring) = 8.54 oz
Gates:
Made in Isreal for MotoRad of Germany
Overall fit and finish everywhere is nicer (semi-polished housing)
In particular: larger internal piston support and SS cross support tight and more engagement (full flange)
O-ring is tight in housing - took a bit to remove it, where Stant pretty much fell out
Initial opening Temp @ 198 deg F
MUCH quicker to close when luke warm water poured in pot (like several seconds)
Weight of Housing + T-stat (no o-ring) = 7.94 oz
Valve didn't open as wide as Stant, but is so much larger with smooth wide necked out opening, likely flows similar or maybe more than Stant.
pictures:
Stant is closest and wider open
Rough cast finish on Stant with casting ridge. Sharper sealing barb on Gates for main hose. Note raised bolt surfaces on Gates.
Gates SS cross support has full flange engaging upright
Stant Flange is cut back, only flat of SS cross support is engaging upright - see bypass valve against spring in background?
Gates SS cross support is tight
Stant SS cross support is loose (see bent flange?)
Well, there you have it guys... My current Stat is not all that weak yet, so I may put off changing them until warmer weather -- I will be interested to see what 198 deg "bath" water reads on the Truck's coolant PID...
Scott
Last edited by diesel_dan; Apr 15, 2018 at 01:56 PM.
Reason: missing pictures
Ya know, I think you’ve got a future in this testing pictorial thing. Have you tried videos?
I'm lucky I didn't burn myself trying to hold the camera, take a shot, and hold the thermometer in the other hand when my glasses steamed up! Video may be a bit out of my league right now...
So while I have you (or anybody) -- how relative is a static pot of boiling water to what is going to happen in an active cooling system, temperature operation wise? I guess I could have tried multiple thermocouples and took an average reading... I'm still a beginner at this test and report, and get it right, thing...
Actually that’s what I did back in 2001 or so when Dieselsites higher T/C came out.
What you did is valid. What I did back then was use 50/50 to get the boiling effect out of the equation to get higher then 212°F. But I wasn’t sending anything back so it could be contaminated. I did use a thermocouple, and gradually went up in temp to full open. The issue at the time was a dispute in crack vs full open. Bob had it wrong.
A tripod is also good for pictures. Use the timer to reduce motion.
Actually that’s what I did back in 2001 or so when Dieselsites higher T/C came out.
What you did is valid. What I did back then was use 50/50 to get the boiling effect out of the equation to get higher then 212°F. But I wasn’t sending anything back so it could be contaminated. I did use a thermocouple, and gradually went up in temp to full open. The issue at the time was a dispute in crack vs full open. Bob had it wrong.
A tripod is also good for pictures. Use the timer to reduce motion.
I guess I'll need to get my bro-in-law to get me one of those Apple watches to remotely control the cameras, and I only have one regular tripod and then a mini.... I dunno' Jack, I think I'll stick to tape measures and leave the caliper version to others....
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