I have a 2000 f350 with 7.3 wont start. so yesterday I changed the hpop an put a fuel filter on to while I was there also replaced the ipr while there.. got it to start finally off ether but wouldn't take any acceleration at all just idle. so this morning I swapped and put the old ipr back on had use ether again but wouldn't stay running.. I have oil pressure

 

Don't use ether if your glow plugs are working. Better yet, don't use ether at all.

My first questions are what was the air temperature when you tried to start it, and what was the overnight low?

 

the temp only got down like 50's or so.. I start it in same conditions everyday usual temp is around 70 or so lately

 

 

it turns over normal like it was before.. the IPR is a BWD.. and the gpr idk I can get it to start but wont take any acceleration.. well got it start earlier now nothing again.. and plug what in??

 

The "plug" refers to your block heater. There is a standard power cord connector hiding somewhere under/behind the front bumper. Grab an extension cord and connect it.

With low temps in the 50s, you might be having a glow plug issue. So if it starts easier when plugged in for several hours (overnight), that is a clue.

If it makes no difference, then you probably do not have a glow plug issue, but testing it is very easy and very quick. Worth doing just to rule it out. Ask if you need some guidance, you will need a reasonably accurate voltmeter.

My rig started having problems at 50 degrees, really annoying at 40, and serious at 30 degrees. A $30 part (the relay) made it start like a champ. But I have learned to not throw parts at the 7.3. An orderly approach to troubleshooting will save time, minimize frustration, and stretch the dollars. Hey, they do need a lot of oil for a change.

Oil... What viscosity are you running and when was the last change? Too thick will make starting difficult at low temps. But plugging it in will likely get you past that too.

 

 

 

 

when I replaced filter it was a filter and cap together and I already pulled it out once after it didn't start first time..

 

could it possibly be the HPOP?? it come from sinister was a reman.. I have an extra should I try to swap them out and see if that works??

 

Welcome back!

I really doubt it is the HPOP. That the truck fired up at all leads me to doubt it without more proof.

Another member here was fighting a problem that ended up being two wires shorting together at a connector. He also suspected his HPOP.

Continue on the glow plug test, it takes less than ten minutes and only requires a multimeter to check it out. Lets us know if you need instructions. Well, it will take less than ten minutes the second time you do it.

By this point, I think my frustration level would lead me to getting some real data from the engine as it tries to start. Check out Torque Pro and the OBD dongles. Combined with a cheap android phone -- or better yet a tablet -- you can pull all sorts of data from it. Pressures, RPMs, duty cycles, and more. And best of all, there are a few folks here who can read that data and help understand what the problem is.

But first, got to know if the glow plug relay is good, and at least one measurement of the glow plugs resistance as a set. Even better, after testing the relay, is to pull the valve cover harness connectors and measure the resistance of each glow plug one at a time. Again, ask for more detail if needed. I admit I'm still learning this engine myself, but from reading here I know throwing parts at it can get very expensive, when the right fix might be a $10 part you did not even suspect.

ETA: That oil should be fine now that temps are warming.

 

yeh the truck fired but it only did with either (my plugs were disconnected) and even when did I had no acceleration the relay wasn't grounding on the bottom and it broke yesterday so I'm ordering a new one.. looks to be the original relay thought about ordering plugs also cause doubt they have ever been changed what do yall think? doing relay should order plugs to?

 

I was thinkin later today or tomorrow pullin gcovers and making sure all my connections are good and that oil is infact getting to the injectors..

 

My GPR fell apart when I went to change it. It tested bad with my multimeter which is why I decided to replace it. Truck starts so much better now. Less than $40 from dead to running. Less than an hour total time on the problem. Lots of thanks to the members here for guiding me through it easily and inexpensively.

While you could pull the valve covers to check things out, you can get a lot of information by just removing the connector on each valve cover and using the meter to measure resistance. IIRC, glow plugs should each be between 1/2 and 2 ohms. If they all read good, no reason to replace any of them.

And your truck might fire up fine after you replace the GPR.