Considering a Rebuild
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New User
Joined: Feb 2018
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Slow your roll here a bit. If it will pass the oil cap test, you are likely golden.
Next up, do a boost leak test. Do you have a boost gauge?
After you fix the boot leaks, rig up a boost gauge (any 0-30psig gauge will work).
Tee it into the map sensor line. How much boost does she make under load?
18 and above and its OK, Under 15, I would push the up pipes to the top of my list.
Next up, do a boost leak test. Do you have a boost gauge?
After you fix the boot leaks, rig up a boost gauge (any 0-30psig gauge will work).
Tee it into the map sensor line. How much boost does she make under load?
18 and above and its OK, Under 15, I would push the up pipes to the top of my list.
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I crawled under it last night and tried to take some pictures, I wasn't able to get a good one of the passenger side, but I believe they are original. No signs of black soot either.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
I'm no expert but based on all of the reading I've been doing lately on the oil, HEUI and injection systems, I agree with 00t444e's above statement.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
It doesn't look like you have any huge leaks.
The place where soot would be most evident would be at the connection of the 2 up pipes and the back of the turbo. Looks like some black in the one picture but hard to tell. The original design was a couple of doughnut style gaskets and they wear over time. This can be a source of lost pressure to drive the turbo. Try to stick the camera up close and get shots of that area.
The place where soot would be most evident would be at the connection of the 2 up pipes and the back of the turbo. Looks like some black in the one picture but hard to tell. The original design was a couple of doughnut style gaskets and they wear over time. This can be a source of lost pressure to drive the turbo. Try to stick the camera up close and get shots of that area.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: SGV SoCal
Yep there is nothing obviouly leaking, but you need to do a boost leak test first.It the tubo intake drive side is not pushing much the exhust side will be doing a lot less work.
If you can build 20pig of boost, you are much more likely to find the up pipes leaking than if you can't break 10 psig!
If you can build 20pig of boost, you are much more likely to find the up pipes leaking than if you can't break 10 psig!
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New User
Joined: Feb 2018
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Slow your roll here a bit. If it will pass the oil cap test, you are likely golden.
Next up, do a boost leak test. Do you have a boost gauge?
After you fix the boot leaks, rig up a boost gauge (any 0-30psig gauge will work).
Tee it into the map sensor line. How much boost does she make under load?
18 and above and its OK, Under 15, I would push the up pipes to the top of my list.
Next up, do a boost leak test. Do you have a boost gauge?
After you fix the boot leaks, rig up a boost gauge (any 0-30psig gauge will work).
Tee it into the map sensor line. How much boost does she make under load?
18 and above and its OK, Under 15, I would push the up pipes to the top of my list.
I also looked a little closer at the sticker and realized it is an early 99 (build date of 7/98).
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,523
Likes: 483
From: Southern OH
I made a quick boost gauge today by pulling the map line, putting a t-insert in and hooking it up to a 0-60 air gauge. At max load I would hit 20 briefly but that quickly fell to around 15-16 ish.
I also looked a little closer at the sticker and realized it is an early 99 (build date of 7/98).
I also looked a little closer at the sticker and realized it is an early 99 (build date of 7/98).
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I already have FORSCAN setup with a scanner.
This is a point in time snapshot, but I could upload a dashboard save file to my Google drive and share it if that helps.
RPM: 1962
Torque: 292 ft-lb
ICP: 2278 psi
IPR: 30.47 %
Trans: Drive
TC_Slipact, rev/min: 3
This is a point in time snapshot, but I could upload a dashboard save file to my Google drive and share it if that helps.
RPM: 1962
Torque: 292 ft-lb
ICP: 2278 psi
IPR: 30.47 %
Trans: Drive
TC_Slipact, rev/min: 3
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,523
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From: Southern OH
Those look pretty normal. In your first post you mentioned needing an egr, sensor and line, there is no egr on a 7.3 so I am assuming it is the exhaust backpressure sensor and line you are talking about, if the sensor is bad it will cause the engine to feel sluggish. Sometimes all you have to do is clean the sensor and line.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
Not to nit pick on you but that is not a gas re-circulation tube, it is a dead end tube that just feeds the exhaust back pressure sensor. The only emissions controls on these engines is the crankcase vent (CCV) that sends crankcase gases through the intake system to get burnt. It feeds out of the driver's side VC towards the firewall to the intake tube right adjacent to it.
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New User
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Not to nit pick on you but that is not a gas re-circulation tube, it is a dead end tube that just feeds the exhaust back pressure sensor. The only emissions controls on these engines is the crankcase vent (CCV) that sends crankcase gases through the intake system to get burnt. It feeds out of the driver's side VC towards the firewall to the intake tube right adjacent to it.
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I appreciate all the help everyone has given me on this topic. After running through the FORSCAN tests the only 'failure' I am coming up with is the parking brake switch, which is just a little corroded. At this point I think the consensus is to hold off on the rebuild and find the boost leak I may have, which I am going to try to find tomorrow.
One thing to note, is that when I hooked up my gauge the needle wouldn't stay constant. Instead, it would flutter rapidly between 16 - 20. Could this just be in the gauge itself since it was just a regular air gauge?
One thing to note, is that when I hooked up my gauge the needle wouldn't stay constant. Instead, it would flutter rapidly between 16 - 20. Could this just be in the gauge itself since it was just a regular air gauge?
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