Key programming unsuccessful
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Key programming unsuccessful
I bought uncut 2 keys off ebay for spares for my '99 F-150, had them cut at the hardware store.
I watched several Youtube videos and attempted to do the programming.
I followed the procedure exactly, but neither replacement key took the programming.
What's worse, one of my original keys would lose it's programming. However, I was able
to restore it, using the programming procedure.
At this point I'm not sure which way I can go with this DIY key programming.
Anyone have experience with this?
I watched several Youtube videos and attempted to do the programming.
I followed the procedure exactly, but neither replacement key took the programming.
What's worse, one of my original keys would lose it's programming. However, I was able
to restore it, using the programming procedure.
At this point I'm not sure which way I can go with this DIY key programming.
Anyone have experience with this?
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Well, you mentioned the "S"...made me take a second look at the ebay key auction.
I missed the fine print, mentioning not being compatible with keys bearing the S stamp.
Screenshot
I missed the fine print, mentioning not being compatible with keys bearing the S stamp.
Screenshot
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I watched a couple "redneck PATS bypass" videos...that looks exciting. 
I'll just try the programming again, with a OEM key.
I'll just try the programming again, with a OEM key.
Last edited by hrsetrdr; Mar 2, 2018 at 01:20 PM. Reason: spelling!
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I watched a couple "redneck PATS bypass" videos...that looks exciting.
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I have no idea what you saw, so it's impossible to comment on the videos. What I referred to is to have the head of an authorized key (or a complete authorized key) inside the PATS transceiver ring for it to be read. One can dismount the ring, zip tie the key in so it reads, and then stuff and tie the assembly up under the dash (aka "Redneck PATS Bypass").
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I've bought spare keys and remotes for my 2005 Escape and spare keys for my manual door locks 2002 F-150 from Amazon. They all programmed in accordance with the owner's manual directions and work great. I don't think I paid more than $10 for any of the items and with Amazon, I could return them. The remotes and keys were exactly like the OEM but without the Ford logo.
My only complaint was getting the keys cut. The Ford dealership wanted $10 per key. Lowe's refused to cut them because I didn't buy them there. So I took them to my Honda car dealer and they cut them for free. Guess where I'll shop for my next used Ford!
My only complaint was getting the keys cut. The Ford dealership wanted $10 per key. Lowe's refused to cut them because I didn't buy them there. So I took them to my Honda car dealer and they cut them for free. Guess where I'll shop for my next used Ford!
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And so the saga continues. I bought an OEM key with the Ford logo and the "S" on the shank of the key. Programming failed, I was afraid at one point that I may have lost the programming of the 2 original keys. I speculate that the reason for the failure was that my 2 originals were clones...?
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I bought a used Ford that had two original keys but I wanted a third. Following the directions in the owner's manual, I successfully cloned a new generic one that I bought from Amazon and had cut at a local hardware store.. Note that ALL THREE KEYS have to be near the ignition switch for this to work without deleting any key that is out of range.
Then I bought another used Ford that only had one key. I bought a matching generic Ford key from Amazon and had it cut to match the original and then I took both keys to a local mechanic (It does not have to be a Ford garage.) who had a programming computer. It worked fine. Be sure to shop around for the best price because mine varied from $50 to $80. Once you have two keys, you can program any future ones that you have cut to match.
Then I bought another used Ford that only had one key. I bought a matching generic Ford key from Amazon and had it cut to match the original and then I took both keys to a local mechanic (It does not have to be a Ford garage.) who had a programming computer. It worked fine. Be sure to shop around for the best price because mine varied from $50 to $80. Once you have two keys, you can program any future ones that you have cut to match.
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From: St Louis
I bought a used Ford that had two original keys but I wanted a third. Following the directions in the owner's manual, I successfully cloned a new generic one that I bought from Amazon and had cut at a local hardware store.. Note that ALL THREE KEYS have to be near the ignition switch for this to work without deleting any key that is out of range.
Key "clones" are the ones that you can have made at hardware stores and certain home centers. The blanks used have a one-time-programmable memory device that allows them to accept the ID information read from a known good key and copied into the blank with the store's machine.
You do NOT have to have the three keys "near the ignitions switch" except that you have reach each of them in order, insert it in the ignition switch, turn it, etc per the instructions.
Then I bought another used Ford that only had one key. I bought a matching generic Ford key from Amazon and had it cut to match the original and then I took both keys to a local mechanic (It does not have to be a Ford garage.) who had a programming computer. It worked fine. Be sure to shop around for the best price because mine varied from $50 to $80. Once you have two keys, you can program any future ones that you have cut to match.