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Since you have a 2g already, you should already have the red/green and yellow wires to your alternator correct? That should be a direct transfer of wires to the 3g.
You really should not use the original battery wire. The 3G has a lot more output, and can melt your original wiring(Since you have a 2G, You have 2 output wires correct?). I would hook the original wires up to the output, and also run another heavy wire directly to the battery like your picture shows. Make sure if you are adding any heavy loads, that you tie in where the heavy wire goes to the battery, and not anywhere else in the harness.
If you have a idiot light in the dash, that will work fine. That is where the green/red wire comes from that hooks to the alternator. If you have a factory ammeter gauge, it will not work properly( most never did anyway).
Just run a new 4ga charge cable to the battery. You can tie the sense wire into that on the alternator if you're lazy but really you should run that back to the battery as well. Then tie in your key on 12v and you're golden. Very easy swap.
I did as said and the alt bogs down start to squeaks belt starts to wobble. Anyone know what I did wrong? I disconnect the yellow and runs smooth but doesn't put out any juice. Will this truck run without the battery hooked up?
Last edited by waine5; Feb 27, 2018 at 06:41 PM.
Reason: adding question
i had the same problem on startup when the alternator was trying to put out a lot of amperage. Installed a soft start regulator ( comes on slowly with a delay ) and solved the problem. I see you're in Nashville. Check your local listings for Automotive Electric Shops. Find someone who rebuilds alternators and have them change your regulator. Just tell them you want one with soft start and they'll know what you mean. If you can't find someone locally here are some part #s.
Transpo F795
Ford GR814
You can actually find it on Amazon if you want to install it yourself.
DO NOT RUN ANY COMPUTER CONTOLLED VEHICLE WITH THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED. That’s an old school test people used to do to see if the charging system was working. It’s always been an inaccurate way to check because you may be getting enough output to run the ignition but if the amperage is low it won’t put out enough to handle accessories and charge the battery. The problem with disconnecting the battery with electronic ignition and various computers is that you could get a voltage spike when you take the battery cable off and fry some big dollar parts.
I tried the soft start alt reg. (tks btw) It worked for a couple days. Now its back to the squealing. I'm sure it's the same problem... when I disconnect, it doesn't make the noise. Whats my next line of action to fix this @#$@#$. It's driving me bat $#!^ crazy. BTW the alt guys said the alt is pushing 105 amps. The old alt was a 1g and all connection are correct, I even doubled up on the ground.
Last edited by waine5; Mar 10, 2018 at 08:19 AM.
Reason: more info
First I would check the belt tension and that it is not glazed.
It could have gotten glazed before the soft start was installed.
If the belt is ok then I am no expert but I would say the "soft" part is not working.
Dave ----
Also make sure that the alternator isn't staying at high current output caused by overcharging or a low battery demanding a lot of current. Since it fixed your problem when you first installed it, the regulator may have failed. Also a grounded rotor in the alternator could cause it to overcharge and also low voltage on the A+ terminal will.
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3g Alt
connecting
