I have a couple of D-Ring shackles that stay on my hitch.........

 

When I hook from the rear, the mechanical mouse gets caught on the edge of the hole. I simply continue to rotate the hook forward until the mouse clears the edge and snaps closed. When unhooking, rotate the hook downward until the mouse clears, push it open and rotate the hook upward, simultaneously sliding it back off the hole. Some hooks need to be turned a bit sideways to clear but it's not hard at all. I have yet to come across a hook that wouldn't go on. I do have a rather large carabiner I leave on for the break away cable, but that's it.

 

The top one is probably OK but the bottom one is crap. I stopped to help a guy who had lost his travel trailer just few miles east of Salt Lake City a few years ago. The couple came off and he had a pair of those S hooks for his safety chains. When I looked at the trailer the S hooks had the bigger end bent back almost straight.

Before then I hadn't given the safety chain connections much thought. Sure the S hooks could support the weight of the trailer but its the big shock load that happens when the slack runs out and/or the tongue hits the ground. That's way more than just the trailer's weight. Looking at those S hooks and what happened to this guy's trailer was a big wake-up call for me.

I wouldn't use anything less than the beefy D Ring shackles.

 

Steve, I have the s-hooks on my ATV trailer. I've wondered for some time if they were reliable. I need to add safety hook replacement to my list of things to do. I was planning to replace the 2" coupler with a 2 5/16" just so I don't need to have a second ball. All my other trailers are 2 5/16".

 

I can't say that I disagree. These S hooks are on a pair of 7x18 enclosed trailers that I have. One is for my business and has a total weight of probably 5500-6000 pounds.
The other is used primarily once a year to haul 4 bikes & some luggage to my annual Daytona vacation.
I think that maybe it's time to remove and replace those hooks before I head out next month.
The heavier hooks in the top pic are what came from the factory on my #9900 6x12 dump trailer and my 21', 14k tilt bed trailer.

 

I'm not sure the point of the new chain loops. But I've had to carry extra shackles, extra chains, extra break away cables, and extra trailer plugs for 20 years now. I don't see how this is any different.

You can open up the holes if you want to. I'm not. I don't even have hooks on my trailer. It's been shackled for years.

 

This is something I came across. Might give this one a try.

 

Class V hitches have been around for years and indeed are what Ford was using on the 2011-2016 diesels. The 3" hitch is unique to Ford (at least in the pickup world) and is more than likely a Class VI hitch, but there is no official designation for it yet as far as I know.

I've had a 2017 F-350 dually and a 2017 F-250. The dually had the 3" hitch and I actually was able to connect all of my bumper pull trailers without issue. The 250, though diesel, does not have the high capacity tow package and therefore gets the Class V 2.5" hitch. Surprisingly, the chain connection holes are smaller than the 3" hitch and not suitable for 2 of my trailers. Basically, the holes aren't large enough. I never had any issue attaching safety chains to the 2.5" hitch on my 2016 F-350 diesel which used the old-style hitch.

While disappointing that a vehicle designed for towing would have too small of chain hookup loops, I will say these new loops whether on the 2.5" hitch or 3" hitch are vastly more robust than what was available on the previous generation.

 

I have 3 different trailers and changed everything to the larger hooks shown on the top of post #15. What I have found is if I trim the end of the "keeper" a little it fits fine and is no problem. No d-ring or shackle needed.

 

The bottom line is; how big a load are you towing? If its just a simple, lightweight utility trailer and the S hooks are pretty big, maybe that's enough. Me? I _really_ don't want to have a trailer come loose so I overkill on stuff like this.

The guy I stopped to help was towing a pretty big Travel Trailer. Probably a 28 footer. The trailer went off I-80, driver's right, down an embankment, through a fence and into the trees. A half mile sooner and it would have been near a busy exit with traffic.

It happened about 1000 feet ahead of me. I wasn't sure at first what I had seen happen. I slowed and rolled up on the stopped truck (Dodge 2500 I seem to remember). The guy was just getting out and looking around for the trailer. I had seen the trail off to the right. It took me a moment to locate it in the trees at the bottom. The road bed was probably 20 feet above where it stopped. The trailer, fairly new, had the front half shredded by the trees.

The guy and his wife were probably in their late 60s or early 70s and pretty shook up by it. I couldn't help but wonder what would have happened had it gone the other way, crossed the median and into oncoming traffic.

 

I'm OK with overkill. Better to be really safe than really sorry.

 

I wouldn't do this. Those are lifting eyes. They're not made to be put in bending. Or get the shock load that a disconnected trailer is going to create. Both combined are likely asking for either the shank to snap off, or the threads to strip clean out.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Susceptible to bending and are not designed for that. I was able to make my hooks work but otherwise would use the big D Rings or Hammerlocks that somebody posted further up.

 

I've tested those lift eye shackles, they're tough enough.

When my provided work vehicle was a GM Express Suicide 2500 van, it would get stuck pulling POS rental generators through mud all the time. I would have to un-hitch, raise the front jack or remove it. Often these trailers won't even hit the ground, or barely hit the ground with the jack up because of the tandem axles and short lengths.

Then the POS van would pop out and be unstuck. I could back up to the trailer at a 90 degree angle, and just drag it by the safety chains, hopefully it would rotate enough to pop both sides out of the stuck spot. Plenty of shock loading hyjinx. I don't care about damaging a POS van or safety chain.

Could they still fail, sure. They're the wrong tool for the job. I think farm and fleet stores have red shackles that are better for this.