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These things are frustrating me. I've soaked them for months in MMO, I've hit them repeatedly with an impact wrench and short of starting to strip them I've seen zero effect.
Is there some hidden trick to removing the 6 door screws? Drilling them out seems like my last resort and I'm worried if I put too much torque I'll them I'll snap the heads off like I've done on every other bolt so far.
When I removed those screws I cleaned the threads exposed on the back with a wire brush to remove as much rust as possible, otherwise it will bind the threads upon extraction.
Once I had them clean I hit with PB and heated pretty good with a MAPP torch and then hit them with gulf wax from the front and back. More heat and more PB, then hit with impact and a big #3 Phillips bit. When they started to get tough more heat and more wax.
One broke off but I welded a nut on it and finished pulling it.
I saw a link recently that I can't find now that showed how to remove rusted or frozen bolts. They used a simple wax candle and a cigarette lighter. Heat up the bolt real good and than melt some candle wax and let it drip onto the heated bolt. The heat will draw the wax back into the threads and make it easier to remove. Good luck, it is worth a try, I have only used it on log nuts so far and it worked perfectly.
I assume that this is on your 1950 Ford F4? And I assume without pictures that you mean the door hinge half that goes to the A pillar? It really depends upon how rusty your truck is. Mine came from Minnesota and was pretty bad. I had to drill out those bolts then retap the threads in the tapping plate. One plate I butchered pretty badly but luckily I was able to get a replacement. You can put a self locking nylok nut back there or make another tapping plate out of 3/16" plate. Try printing out the last picture below at 100% to get the right bolt hole spacing.
Backside of the tapping plate
Here is a clean scan of the tapping plate at full resolution.
Kano Sili Kroil Aerosol as Jake said, works great.
Packed in a 16.5 Oz can, this oil is able to assist you to loosen up or disassemble any mechanical parts that are rusted and stuck together. It is able to dissolve iron oxide particles in the rusty, metallic parts. This frees them up for you. The Kano Sili Kroil also acts as a lubricant after application. This prevents further rusting. The oil also resists moisture and wetting. Hence, it is an affordable, effective solution for stuck metal components today.
My brother is a toolmaker/machinist and has equipment in his garage. He made me a couple of those plates properly sized and threaded.
There's not much to them but he used my original to size it, drill, and tap the holes. Not that it's necessary but he programmed it using his CNC Mill so that he can produce them again. If anyone needs them I'm sure he would make them for a reasonable fee.
He also Programmed the "bell" looking weight for the 6cyl (226) heat riser. Not sure if it's the proper weight but it looks perfect as far as that goes.
No, i'm not really soliciting(no prices) just throwing it out there if needed.
That is great as they are not available anywhere that I can find. You should contact Macs, DC, LMC, etc. to see if you can sell them to them. A simple part but not easy to get the holes in exactly the right place by hand. CNC machine would do it best.
Last century, I wrote an article that was published in Old Car Weekly. In it I commented that I had tested many different penetrating oils and one thing stood out with many of them. They evaporate too soon. What I did was to spray or drip a little into plastic bathroom cups in the evening. the next morning I went into the shop and most of them were empty. That means that during the night, the fluids evaporated. So if they evaporate that fast, how can they penetrate rust and loosen it? I performed this test on all of the popular oils (sic), including one in an olive drab metal can with a milspec number. Sadly, I do not remember all that I tested but I do remember that it was about 6 or 7 different brands. What prompted me to do this was the '46 Chevy P/U that had clutch head screws holding the door hinges on. After many days of frustration, I just drilled them out and tapped them for new bolts. It was quicker and gave me the opportunity to put new screws in.
We do like to play around in rust... over the years observed what sticks on or washes away on materials. I've a mix of regular diesel fuel, kerosene, Type F ATF, Marvel Mystery oil and you can add a bit of any of your other popular rust buster products.
As mentioned- heat, apply mix, light air blow to cool, but not drive away mix. Yes best to let soak over nite. When trying to actually loosen, also, give an occasional, reversal tighten torque. And, yes, as you can get to it, give it some smacks with a flat punch/hammer. Personally, I think the diesel is the key and as much heat as you dare apply, after overnite soaks... your mileage may vary .. good luck- have fun..johnh
I have two sets of 61 to 66 door hinges I am preparing to sell. They were frozen fast. I stuck them in a bucket of kerosene overnight and all but one hinge came loose. The one still stuck had to be persuaded with PB Blaster and a hammer and another nights soaking in the kerosene.
I have taken off at least 8 doors of these 48-52 years and what works good for me is constant spraying of liquid wrench/PB blaster or Kroil a week before from the back side. A good #3 phillips on a 1/2 inch impact gun I heated the screw back cooled it fast and let the impact vibrate them loose pushing in until it just shakes and vibrates.I have only ever had to weld one and what i did was weld inside a small cheap socket and put the ratchet on the back and twisted it out. I weld a square nut to the back of a plate after they were out for theads because the hinge itself no longer has any.or the door post.
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