Engine stall help
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
Hey Nick,
Do you hear a loud noise coming from the tank when you open it? Are you running a vented
or non-vented gas cap? Did you add a vent to your new gas tank?
If you don't have adequate ventilation to your tank ... you can get starved for fuel.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Do you hear a loud noise coming from the tank when you open it? Are you running a vented
or non-vented gas cap? Did you add a vent to your new gas tank?
If you don't have adequate ventilation to your tank ... you can get starved for fuel.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
I think this might be might first plan of action. That should also space my fuel line up away from the thermostat housing.
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
A lot of good information has been posted so far, My 1/2 cent is while looking at your pic I noticed on your carb feeds, there are a lot of AN couplers along and close to your intake, each carb input and then one connecting to the fuel line, which all could be absorbing heat adding to the problem. I had a vapor lock problem with my Edelbrock carb. I cured mine with a little rerouting away from my intake, plus I also have a carb spacer as has been previously mentioned. I'm not saying this is your problem, as I'm probably the worst mechanic on the site. Best of luck Nick.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Nick,
Try the easy fixes like spacers & heat shields etc.. We have a vented gas cap
plus we had to add another vent on the top of the gas tank going to a charcoal
canister to get adequate ventilation (but it's a pain to drop tank so do this one last).
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Try the easy fixes like spacers & heat shields etc.. We have a vented gas cap
plus we had to add another vent on the top of the gas tank going to a charcoal
canister to get adequate ventilation (but it's a pain to drop tank so do this one last).
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 467
From: Mason City, Iowa
A lot of good information has been posted so far, My 1/2 cent is while looking at your pic I noticed on your carb feeds, there are a lot of AN couplers along and close to your intake, each carb input and then one connecting to the fuel line, which all could be absorbing heat adding to the problem. I had a vapor lock problem with my Edelbrock carb. I cured mine with a little rerouting away from my intake, plus I also have a carb spacer as has been previously mentioned. I'm not saying this is your problem, as I'm probably the worst mechanic on the site. Best of luck Nick.
These are some good suggestions. I would also think about adding some of that insulating sleeve material you find in the plumbing section of hardware/home improvement stores. It's cheap, and it works well for me. The downside maybe is that is covers up all your cool plumbing with AN connectors. If you add a carb spacer, which will add carb fuel bowl and fuel line clearance, your carb's float levels are set correctly, and there is no fuel pump or filter issues, and you still have problems, then try adding the insulating sleeves. If it helps fix the issue, then you could decide if you want to leave it, or order something that looks nicer from Jegs/Summit/Speedway etc..
If you are looking for a carb spacer, here is one that might work well:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/m...r/3710/4513994
You have a great looking engine bay BTW.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 81
From: Northville, MI
I guess that I would go back and look at why your original coil got so hot and, if i understand you correctly, your MSD distributor failed. I'd start by checking your body ground strap and negative battery cable to the block.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
I had the coil mounted sideways, rather than the vertical that MSD says it is supposed to be mounted at since it is oil filled. I think that is what caused the coil to fail, and the distributor failed at the same time, so I had thought it was because of the coil some how. I will check my grounds though when I change the coil. I know I cleaned the paint off where I hooked the ground to the frame, but my dad did the frame to engine and engine to body so I will have to double check those.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
A quick and dirty test for vapor lock is to install maybe 10 clothes pins on the fuel line in between the pump and carb. If it behaves better you have a vapor lock problem. Been there and done it.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
Yeah I ordered an epoxy filled coil and a carb spacer last week. I'll get that stuff installed next week when I get back from Disney.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
It seems like the oil-filled are the high-output coils, that need to dissipate more heat. I really question how many engines need 50k+ volts, more isn't always better, especially in terms of reliability. I'd try a Bosch "blue-top" coil of the proper impedance, they are high quality and put out plenty. For the MSD R-to-R, MSD told me to use a coil with 0.7 to 1.4 ohm primary. I've been using a NAPA Echlin IC10, 1.2 ohm, with good results. First one lasted 10 years.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
Im not sure if that would help as much on mine because I have a nylon braided line from the pump to carb. It is stainles braided line between the two carb inlets though.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 81
From: Northville, MI
Hey guys, I am hoping you can help me with an issue I am having with my truck. For those that dont know, it is a 429 with a mild cam, aluminum heads and a sual plane intake. The issue I am having is when the engine gets hot, it likes to stall. There are two symptoms that I am getting. The first one is that after driving the truck for a while, then shutting it off for a while, like when getting lunch or something, it will start up fine, but then stall after about a minute of running. It is very hard to start after that and I have to hold the throttle open half way to get it to fire again.
The second symptom I am getting us that after this happens it will stall while going down the road. Sometimes I can pump the gas and it will start up again, sometimes I have to pull off the road try to start it. One thing I have noticed is that If i open the hood, it seems to start easier.
I dont know if its related as well, but sometimes when shifting gears under high throttle, it will stall, but fire right back up when I get back in the gas.
I kind of have a gew ideas of what it might be, but was hoping someone here might be able to give me some guidance.
The second symptom I am getting us that after this happens it will stall while going down the road. Sometimes I can pump the gas and it will start up again, sometimes I have to pull off the road try to start it. One thing I have noticed is that If i open the hood, it seems to start easier.
I dont know if its related as well, but sometimes when shifting gears under high throttle, it will stall, but fire right back up when I get back in the gas.
I kind of have a gew ideas of what it might be, but was hoping someone here might be able to give me some guidance.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 103
From: Birdsboro PA
Then there is always our vented vs non-vented fuel cap. I'm not sure what year truck yours is (suggest adding it to your signature block) but if it is a '48-'52 make sure that you have a vented gas cap else as you use fuel you will create too much of a vacuum for the pump to overcome. Actually this can happen with any older gas tank that is not vented.