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When it's no longer clicking, are you able to start the engine? Since it fired earlier, you have to be close to where the problem is on the wiring. The engine wouldn't fire up if the PCM wasn't online.
1. With the ground jumper added, the clicking from the relay is gone; the dash still has flashing theft and ------- in the odometer. It briefly displays the mileage when key is first turned to the ON position. Then it reverts to -------.
2. Additionally, it appears that the THEFT is now only flashing intermittently. (Seems like the ground connection is simply not good enough)
3. We did notice a faint brief clicking near the engine. (turned out to be the IAC)
4. We are working on finding a way to remove the terminal from the Battery Junction Box so I can clean and solder a solid ground connection to it... I've looked at a few videos on this but it's not cooperating. Don't want to break it. I'll keep on it. Anyone happen to have a pic so I don't destroy this thing?
Seems like this truck is going to fight me to the very end.
Ok, good. Sounds like you're close to solving the problem. Once the ground is confirmed good, then turn your attention to pin 86 for battery voltage. Make sure you have good battery voltage on that as well. Both has to be present and stable to energize the relay properly.
So, a little more progress this morning.
I have not yet been able to pull the terminal from the BJB so I'm thinking I'll just splice a new ground into the line. I hate to do so as it looks sloppy but I'm losing patience and do not want to damage the terminal end in the process (It appears to be easy to remove but my tiny screwdriver and even flat thin metal bar - from an old wiper blade, is not giving me the ability to pull it out.) I looked for pics online... All except the one I need! LOL
Anyway, I jammed the ground line into the relay holder and re-located the ground briefly and here's what happened:
1. Odometer switched from ---- to the actual mileage. And truck started and ran perfectly for something like 30 seconds.
2. The THEFT light continuously flashed.
3. The truck died and the odometer went back to-------
Still no permanent attachment to ground. I did set a better ground and noticed that the THEFT light stopped flashing and the odometer was back to normal- The truck fired and ran fine. I shifted through the gears, no issue. Put it back in park and it idled until it dropped to around 900 rpm then died suddenly (BEFORE the RPM dropped)
I tried it again. Same normal dash and no THEFT light flashing. Truck ran and gave a hiccup or two. I pressed the accelerator a little to keep the rpm up and plugged in my scanner. While checking the scanner, I looked over at the dash and noticed that the temp gauge was not moving even though my scanner registered 100* in the coolant.
RPMs were around 1000 and it died again before the RPM even had a chance to drop.
I tried the key again and was back to the ----- and flashing THEFT light.
Well.. How about this: Try to jump the relay, pin 30 to 87 with a good wire. See if everything is working normally in that case. It's a quick and dirty test to see if there's anything else wrong or if the problem is isolated to the PCM relay.
I have now attempted several iterations of a solid ground connecting to the fender and even as far as the negative battery terminal. The other end of the wire bing jammed into the socket of the relay to ensure a solid connection. (I've not yet spliced it as I was looking for the best place to ground)
So far, no joy. I keep getting the ----- and the flashing THEFT light.
SKAUBER: is the jumper you suggest on the Fuel Pump relay? IF so, do I remove the makeshift ground?
No, it's not for the Fuel Pump relay, it's for the PCM relay. It's simply a step to ensure that the only problem which is preventing the truck to start is the PCM relay, or if there are other problems. Turning ignition to ON, jumping the PCM relay pin 30 to 87 will give permanent battery voltage to PCM and it should fire up. If it does and everything works as it should, then you know for a fact that the problem is with the PCM relay and all you have to do is to fixe ground and possibly battery voltage to the coil side of the relay. And of course, ensure that you're using a known-good relay.
ok. Got it. I have two new relays for the pcm and fuel pump.
Ok tried the jumper on the PCM relay without the ground to the FP relay. Lots of clicking. No change to the dash.
Tired the jumper with the ground affixed to the FP relay and there was a tiny hint of clicking. No change to the dash.
Once the dash changes over to the odo display and the THEFT light stops, it will run...
Ah, so there's multiple relays clicking? And grounding them removes the clicking? Since grounding the relays directly only partially helps, it makes me wonder if a main ground strap or main ground point to the battery is missing or damaged. Perhaps main ground to the fuse box under hood. A quick wire jump might not be heavy gauge enough to fix that, so it gives erratic behaviour as you're describing.
There was only one relay clicking. It was the FP relay. However it stopped clicking with the addition of a ground.
The problem is that the addition of the ground seems to be an intermittent fix.
As posted earlier, sometimes it fires and runs. Sometimes not (all with the same grounding points)
The issue of the random dying is next- once I can get it to start regularly.
Usually there's a retainer hook on it, I've pulled pins out of plugs many times. But I've never pulled any out of a fuse box on these, so not sure how that specific hook is released. A flashlight and a very small screwdriver should do the trick though