How's it going gents? I'm looking for advice on what you guys may have used for your clutches.

Year: 1966
Engine: 390
Trans: BW T10 4 Speed floor shift
Rear: 9 Bolt Posi (early style, no drain plug)

I built this truck pretty much from the ground up and have gone through 3 clutches in about 2yrs. I replace all components when reinstall (pilot bearing, throwout bearing, even the grade 8 bolts). I've been using the clutch recommended from Oreillys (I believe brake best). They have a lifetime warranty so it hasn't cost me money, just time and annoyance. I adjust the throwout bearing properly each time (It's been a min. But I believe 2-2.5in of travel before engagement) but everytime, the throwout bearing is pretty much torn apart and aside from rubbing marks from the 3 clutch spring prongs on the face of the bearing, there's no gouging or hard hit marks. I have no idea why it keeps going out. I don't ride the clutch or have any oil leaks to make it glaze over. I asked an old time hot rod buddy of mine who is big on everything Ford and he pretty much just said it's the quality of today's parts. I'm wondering if you guys have had this problem and what remedies you used by either mechanical or upgraded solutions. Thanks.

Also I'm oilfield and not starting on this for a few weeks so I might not respond right away but all input is appreciated.

 

390's use an 11 1/2" clutch on a 12 7/8" bolt circle. 352/360's use an 11" clutch on a 12 3/8" bolt circle.

 

Since your transmission obviously came from a car did you use the bellhousing and flywheel for the same car? If not you may have a parts mismatch that might need to be sorted out since some 390 4 speed cars used an 11 inch clutch and some used an 11.5 inch clutch. ND probably has the books if he knew what year and model vehicle all that stuff came from. My interchange parts manual is no help either without knowing model and year.

 

Anything but a Fenco. The first one let go a chunk of lining, the second lost tension in the hub springs. LUK has been good.

 

Alright so it's been a minute but I've finally been able to pull my transmission. I pulled the trans and the throwout bearing but not the clutch itself yet.

To answer some questions, the 390 is out of a 69 mustang. The truck originally came with a 352 and 3 speed on the column. I bought it with the current drive train in it so I'm not 100% on everything matching but the bellhousing is a factory bellhousing (FoMoCo). Everything seems to fit properly. I.e. proper rub marks on main shaft from the pilot bearing, it's not hitting the crank, and the drive shaft seats well into trans. The clutch that has been on it, and that I keep getting, is 11in. I don't believe there is room in the bellhousing for an 11.5in clutch but I could be off.

The reason I haven't pulled the entire clutch yet is because the throwout bearing doesn't seem to be messed up. I.e. still has grease, spins in alignment, bearings are still round. So I'm wondering if the throwout bearing is even the issue. The only way I can describe the sound I hear when I'm either in first gear or reversing (high torque) is that it seems like a low grinding noise but not so much metal on metal or spindals or gears hitting (zero problems shifting into gear). It seems like the flywheel is spinning faster than the clutch pad or the clutch pad is spinning in between the flywheel and metal surface of the clutch. If that makes sense and seems right would I then just need to adjust my throwout bearing? Again, I have had the proper 2-2.5in play in the pedal this whole time but at this point I'm fine with adjusting it one way, seeing if it burns up, and then on the next one adjusting it opposite direction haha. Thanks.

 

ND has the real books but this interchange manual says 11.5 inch in 67 and 11 inch 68-69. But they all seem to use the same bell housing according to this book C6OZ-6392-C. I'm just looking at 390 Mustangs of course. The flywheels seem to be the same even between 11 an 11.5, "I don't know how that works". The clutch disc's seem to be the same 11 or 11.5. The pressure plates on the other hand seem to be specific 67 shows C6OZ-7563-F, 11.5 inch, 68, C6OZ-7563-E 11 inch, 69,C9OZ-7563-A, 11 inch. and no telling how many small parts might be different. If it were mine. I would pull everything out including the pilot bearing and replace it all with parts that you know match up. But that's just me.

 

Nice Crop, thanks for the P/N. That's what I was looking for so I'll go through it later today and see what it looks like.

 

I prefer diaphragm style clutches vs your three fingered lever style. The diaphragm clutch is smoother and engages easier. Not that this is your particular problem, just my two cents on clutch types.

 

I agree Jack, that's what my others have been. I may try to go to that style. I'll post pictures soon of these parts.

 

 

I put a 390 in my 66f350 with a NP435, originally had a 352. i went with a centerforce clutch and plate. Instructions required a small amount machining to clear the fly wheel. No issues to date.

 

I see from your pictures that you have a bell housing from a 65-66 truck maybe you should be using a clutch and pressure plate for 1966, 352 truck.
Also make sure the centering flange on your transmission is the same diameter as the hole in the bell housing.

 

T10H-1: Borg-Warner T-10 4 speed from a 1965/66 Mustang/Falcon/Fairlane/Comet 289.

C5TA-7505-B = 1965/76 F100/350 FE bell housing.

D0TZ-7505-A (replaced C5TZ-7505-B) .. 352/360/390 Bell Housing / Marked: C5TA-7505-B / Obsolete

5K29: Bell housing cast October (K) 29, 1965 (5).

1965/66 F100/250 2WD; 1966 F100 4WD; 1967/76 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350.