I failed at install this weekend. The engine is fully assembled and lubed. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow night it will get set in
I couldn't wait any longer tho I had to wash that dirty bird
It seems to clean up fairly well.

 

Looks like a nice looking Navigator that's either been lowered, or has air suspension issues to tackle as your next project after you get the engine installed. If I didn't mention it already, I'll mention it now. You can do a partial front end body lift if needed, if that's what it takes to shoehorn the engine back in. Good work.....

 

Oh it's aired out right now I'm hoping just from sitting.
Once it's running I'm hoping it airs up but if not I guess it will just have to get fixed also. The guy that had it before was pretty clueless as to solenoids at the wheel bags. He attempted to jump the compressor and when it wouldn't air up started throwing parts at it. He put a drier and lines on it. The dude was pretty clueless so I'm not holdingg breath and we will wait and see lol. I'm not afraid except for level sensors seem to be really expensive.

 

I believe the air bags for the suspension is quite expensive as well. 1000 bucks a piece if I remember correct for the OEM. Perhaps there's aftermarket available, not sure. But many just opts for converting to springs since it gets too expensive to maintain. The bags are rated for a 10 year lifespan.

 

I used some Suncore rear air strut assemblies on my old 2005 Navigator. It was their brand to the best of my knowledge and made extremely well. They have a set of rear air struts listed for $469 at their website. I do not see a listing for fronts :-(

https://suncoreindustries.com

 

You all are going about it wrong. Much less expensive routes to go. No biggie.

 

Well,it's in!! Heck I don't see any reason to be pulling a bunch of body stuff
I dropped it in by myself at home on the floor. No biggies, tonight I'm gonna try to get all the under side stuff bolted and done. We will see if we can't make some heat this week?!

 

All sitting at home ready to make some heat.

 

Looks great! It's a tight fit, but it does go in.

 

It may not look much different but everything underneath is done. Upper intake and accs tonight.maybe and then we make heat!!!

 

Hey, didn't know the oil filler tube was on the "wrong" side. hehe. All Expeditions I've seen has it on the passenger side, maybe that's a Navigator thing, or more likely a 4V DOHC thing?

 

Lol. I guess you are right.

Well...it runs and drives. I'm having a cyl head temp over voltage on initial test code. The battery is complete junk and barely starts the engine. I think I am not going to stress about this code untill I have a good battery. If I clear the code it does not return untill restart. The driver's retractable running board is inop but I hear motor. Hopefully I can remove assy and it just needs cleaning and lubrication of pivot points.
All in all I had a few hiccups but this ol dude runs and drives. I still have also to turn brake rotors to get rid of rust,bleed and rotate tires.

 

Well I got the brakes back together so to speak. It's just too bad that while braking the brake lines above the fuel tank gave up the ghost. The cht P1286 code is still present after a new battery. Fun times after that the right front air bag decided to randomly dump all of it's stuff.
I sure hope this thing stops kicking me in the teeth soon. I am sick as crap so this is really kicking my butt.

 

this is such a common problem on ford modular engines, it's not even funny. got a few pics of my own of a 4.6 pickup tube lol, if they made a metal bracket for it somehow, and the plastic was only a thin strip for the chain to glide on, they would be world class engineers. unfortunately, the only mechanical engineers that make it in/out are the ones in it after the money, prob drive way different cars, and switch when they hits 70k miles. if you aren't yet done putting it together, check the oil pump whether it's worn, it's prob got some life left. edit: judging by the latest pic, it appears that you got a clean and proper build almost complete

 

Heck yea!!!!! Great job bud. Im about to do the same thing to my 03 32v. It has a bad timing chain tensioner that causes chain slap at startup for about 5 seconds. That alone wouldnt warrant yanking the motor, but it has low compression on number 6. Its not enough to throw a cel light, and it even passed all its drive cycle monitors, but i can feel it noticibly shaking at idle and its bothering me so out it will come and get completely rebuilt.

Usually when i yank a modular motor i do it the same way, by pulling the heads first then i use 2 old head bolts to attach the chain to the block. I have a couple of questions for you.

1. Where did you hook your lifting straps to since the engine went in complete.
2. Did you have to drain the a/c system or did you just unbolt the compressor and set it aside like you can on a 16v.
3. Were your new timing chain tensioners the iron ones or did u end up getting the plastic ones.
4. Did you have to remove the a/c condenser, i cant tell from the pic. If you did i guess that answers number 1 lol.
5. Did you have to remove anything else from then body of the truck to get the engine out? Like cowl pieces, battery tray, etc.

sorry for all the questions, i have pulled many engines out of mustangs, f150's and even some super duties but ive never yanked a 32v with its super wide heads.

Andy
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