Ok, and before anyone says "just get rid of the Banks 6 gun", no. Unless it's toast. I have enough money in this truck with other parts and upgrades and regular problems, I don't and won't replace it if I can't fix it.

That being said, when I tow, I run stock. When I'm empty, I run 3-4 because it responds like a gasoline truck, and gets better fuel economy, and seems to run cooler. But I don't trust the 6.0 to tow with a chip, so stock it goes.

So, over the last year or so, the Dynafact gauges fail as a pair; boost and EGT. I'll be driving, then they'll drop off, then back up, then may or may not fall off again and stay off until the truck restarts. Sometimes when they come back up, the boost will not be reading correctly; it'll be low vs. the dash. I monitor the EGT especially while towing, because at low RPMs it'll warm up if I'm not watching it, then I'll downshift and get more airflow to cool it down.

I'm assuming there is/was a grounding problem that those 2 are linked to, or maybe the wires were getting hot by being next to something, but it was installed when I bought the truck, so I didn't do it and I don't know where everything goes under the hood and into the harness (if).

So, fast forward to a recent trip to FL from TX, (allegedly) the IPR valve wire harness fell off, melted against the manifold and shorted that out causing the truck to misfire and borderline shut off between strokes. Took to dealership, and they found and fixed that, but in the process, the Banks 6 gun module was disconnected and the gauges do not work at all now, so I think they were linked up somehow? When I asked the dealership about it, they said that if the Banks was plugged back in, it could short out the IPR again and cause failure again, but if the pigtail was the failure, I'm not sure why the Banks would be a factor unless it was fried in the process.

How can I diagnose whether the banks is fried or not? I have a multimeter, but that's about the extent of my diagnostic tools for electrical work. Test light...

Anyone have or have installed a Banks 6 gun that could tell me what the wire harnesses go to and how to know if it is failed or not? I'm hesitant to just plug it back in now, because the dealership doesn't know enough about it so I don't trust that they know what they are talking about. I think they just wanted to eliminate it from the equation and that was "not their problem"...

 

Oh, and additionally, I have a 3 pod pillar with those 3 dynafact gauges, and I want to change it out for a 4 pod pillar and add a fuel pressure gauge. Glowshift makes one, as does MaxTow. Any experience with these? I would prefer to only add the 1 new gauge and the pillar, but if my Banks stuff is fried and no longer functional, then all new gauges may be warranted, but I can't imagine the gauges being fried, just not fed... But I'd be happy to listen to reviews on MaxTow and Glowshift, and especially fit of a 4 pod pillar of any brand. Thanks.