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ive been having issues with my 97’ f250, two weeks ago, I went to start the truck, turned the key, and I got nothing. I jumpered the starter relay and it fired up. I bought a new relay and installed it, still nothing when I turn the key. I also load tested my batteries and one was bad, one was weak so I put two new interstate megatron-plus’s in it, and cleaned/greased all grounds and power connections.
Still no crank from key, battery voltage 10.6v while cranking, and I’m not hearing the injectors clicking when cranking. 12.2v at one large post and the two small posts on the glow plug relay, nothing on the second large post.
Could this just be something wrong with my key switch?
Auto or manual tranny? If auto try starting in neutral, instead of park. When you check the GP relay, how soon did you check it after the key was turned to the run position? The relay will stay on, depending on engine temps, for up to 2 minutes. To me it sounds like a problem with the transmission position switch if an auto, or if a manual the clutch safety switch isn't completing the circuit when the clutch is pressed.
I replaced the starter relay before I realized I needed to replace the batteries because it wouldn’t crank with the key. And when I’d jumper the relay, it would crank over.
Yes when the key is in the run position the wts light comes on, radio, and heater.
I just tried to start it in neutral, it wouldn’t crank, tried moving the gear selector around but still no crank with key.
Below is a picture of the starter relay on my 97. The connection at the top screw looking post is what goes to 12 volts when turning the key to start. You can verify if the relay is good by jumping that post to battery plus. Not necessary to have the key in, engine will just crank over. Just make sure truck is in park. The wire next to the screw looking terminal with rubber boot is what plugs into that terminal. If you have a volt meter you can measure that wire while someone turns the key to crank and it should go to battery plus voltage.
^^^^^ If it were fuse #22, there would be no WTS light.
Tests referenced in post #9 are where to START (no pun intended...). Way cheaper than continuing to throw parts at it.
In 9 years of owning 2 PSDs, I don't recall ever hearing the injectors click, while cranking or while running. I can't imagine hearing them over the engine noise.
I will verify the tests at the starter relay, but the issue is more that the engine won’t crank with ignition key, either in Park or neutral, it has 2 good new batteries, and good battery voltage while cranking by jumpering the relay, but it won’t start or even try to start. It seems like it’s rolling over with the key off.
I will verify the tests at the starter relay, but the issue is more that the engine won’t crank with ignition key, either in Park or neutral, it has 2 good new batteries, and good battery voltage while cranking by jumpering the relay, but it won’t start or even try to start. It seems like it’s rolling over with the key off.
Odd question.
If you grab the steering wheel in the truck can you shake it and physically move the steering column without using the tilt adjust lever?
... the engine won’t crank with ignition key... It seems like it’s rolling over with the key off.
So does that mean it IS cranking, or it ISN'T? You realize that the transmission neutral safety switch switch, starter relay, and associated wiring have nothing to do with whether the engine will RUN, only whether it will CRANK.
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