I've never run the F cam, but have run the B cam. It's got a really lopey idle (in a 302) and the LSA is 2* lower than the F, which would better fit your comp ratio. It's even better with 1.7 rockers. I've got the Z cam in my 331 and it requires 91-93 octane fuel with a 10.4 to 1 comp ratio. The 30 extra cubes tames the idle lope too, so you may not get what you want there in a 351

 

I already run 93 octane as it is so that is no problem. What cam specs would you recommend? Any popular off the shelf grinds that would fit my setup decently?
Edit: Also, playing with the calculator my compression ratio will be closer to 9.5:1 instead of the previously stated 10:1

 

The thing about the description in small block cams is they never specify what size engine (289, 302 or 351, or larger as in a 351W based stroker ) it applies to. The more cubic inches there are, the milder the cam gets, as was the case with the Z cam in my 331. Intake choice also applies here as well (single plane or dual plane) Single plane will accentuate the lope, dual plane will tame it. The Z was listed as being the "biggest badddest" of Fords Alphabet cams, but in my 331 it's really kind of tame in operation. It's LSA is 112*, the @.050 duration is 228* The Howards cam you listed, would be on the small side as far as giving it lope in a 351, you'd want more duration @.050 to give it more overlap, the overlap is where the lope comes from. I'd bet that in operation in your 351, it would sound like a nice RV grind, with only a hint of lope. More duration with a 110* LSA will naturally give it more overlap and thus more of a lope. I would look for something with 230-240* @.050 duration with a 110-112* LSA to get what you want.

 

One thing too to keep in mind is your heads. You don't want to get over more than around .520" lift with those P heads, I doubt they'll handle anything more than .530 lift before bottoming out on the valve guide bosses. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check how much clearance there is there before choosing a cam. The springs too also decide how much lift you can go with. The rockers you choose also have a roll to play here too as to how wild you can get with pedestal rockers before needing to go to studs. I've got Canfield heads on my 331 so I didn't have to worry about this in choosing the Z cam and 1.7 rockers

 

So good news, COMP told me I should have no problem getting a full refund for the bad cam and lifters. Also, my tax return hit today so I am going to be ordering new parts soon. Im looking closely at the Ford X303 cam.
Specs:
Basic Operating RPM Range:2,200-6,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:286
Advertised Exhaust Duration:286
Advertised Duration:286 int./286 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.542 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.542 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.542 int./0.542 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):112

My setup will be:
Stock bottem end Jasper Reman 89 351w Zero Decked
Ported and polished Gt40p heads shaved .010
Hooker Competition Longtube headers
Full MSD ignition
600 CFM Edlebrock Carb or 750 CFM vac sec Summit Carb
Edlebrock RPM air-gap intake
stock rocker arms (1.6)
4.10 rear gears
SN95 T5 transmission
9.5:1 compression
Howard Cams 91260 Linked Lifters

This combo is in my 1980 single cab longbed F100. This is by no means a race truck and I know I could do better with different heads and a modern cam but Im trying to stay as low buck as possible. Kind of a challenge to myself not to empty my wallet and still have fun. Im curiouse to what valve springs would be required with this cam as well. Any insight and comments are welcome!

 

Might want to make sure the stock rockers will work with that cam lift.

 

I am taking the engine to a local reputable machine shop that is familiar with these heads and Ford smallblocks. I'm going to get his thoughts and have him measure everything to be certain before I order the camshaft. Going to have him zero deck the block, clean it really well to remove the metal shavings from the failled cam, and install all new bearings. He is also going to port the heads. Since I am not confident in my engine assembling skills I'm going to pay the extra to have him check clearances, pushrod length, and assemble it into a ready to go longblock. Going to be a large chunk of the budget but I feel it will be worth it and put my mind at ease. With the added down time because of him building it, I may be able to afford some roller rockers. What brand would be good but budget freindly and should I do stud mount or stick with the pedistal type?

 

I'd be Leary of running that lift with pedestal rockers, but that's just me. It's been a dozen years since I bought rockers, the last being the Comp 1.7' s in my 331. These were their engine builders line that you never saw advertised. The only others being the set of Cobra rockers I bought used and have run in 4 different engines and currently in the 351 in my 96 E150. Just based on this I'd buy from them. Strange though that seeing your cam failure they haven't fixed that yet after 20 years. One of the fails I had was a 280H but in a 400M. I really feel its poorly machined lifters here at fault, not the can. Both fails I had were a single lobe/lifter during break-in . One Comp, the other was a Crane cam

 

Im looking at a set of pedistal mount Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers. They have good reviews and seem to be popular in the Mustang crowd. Part number is 1021. Would stud mounts really be necessary not going over 5500 rpm?

 

I used them on my build with GT40 heads and a .512 lift cam, and am very happy with them. I chose my parts so that I could beat on my engine (reasonably) and not worry about such things. With them, you will likely need to go to aftermarket valve covers, which can be had cheap.

 

I'd think the added cost of installing studs would be worth not risking more carnage

 

Don't mean to hijack, but whats the advantage of stud mount vs. pedestals?

 

Studs allow you to install adjustable rockers.

 

Pedestals use a 5/16"NC hold down bolt. Studs use a 7/16NC bottom with either a 3/8NF or 7/16NF top portion. Far stronger than the pedestals. And as said above, they're adjustable. He will need hardened pushrods for the guide plates needed with studs.

 

So it has been a while since I have posted thanks to work and other matters but I have finally made some headway, or at least made up my mind. Summit and Comp Cams were excellent with their customer support and they warrantied me a new cam and lifter set no questions asked. This has obviously made up my cam choice because of budget reasons. With the money I had saved for the roller conversion I purchased a used set of Trick Flow twisted wedge 170 heads with 2.02 intake and 1.90 exhaust valves and a 61cc combustion chamber completed with 1.6 ratio Trick Flow roller rockers and 3/8 studs with 5/16 pushrod guide plates. I am sending the engine down to Charlie Philips at Lone Star Machine Shop in FairField, Texas to be built. Looking for about 10:1 compression with a .060 over bore and either hyper or forged pistons. I would Like to do a small shot of nitrouse in the future.