IF.....you were to swap in a diesel engine, you would need EVERYTHING from the identical model year and configuration vehicle that is specific to the diesel option, to make it all work. This includes, not only the engine/transmission/transfer case, but also the chassis wiring harness, underhood harness, instrument panel harness, engine harness, ALL fuel lines, fuel tank and pickup/sender assembly, the front and rear axles (different axle ratios between gas and diesel), instrument cluster assembly (for the glow plug warning indicator as well as the diesel specific tachometer with the lower range RPM scale), to go along with the front suspension coil springs (the diesel version uses thicker coils to accommodate the heavier engine). By doing as such, you are about to substantially increase the cost not so much just in the parts alone, but the substantial increase in the labour to make it all work as well. I am not saying it is impossible, but rather to give you a clear picture of what is involved before you make the commitment. All too often, these kind of projects end up going incomplete due to running out of time, patience, interest, money and/or a combination of all of the above, with the end product becoming a vehicle that is not usable. For 2003 model year in particular, the diesel engines used were the 7.3L for the first third of the run, and the ever so problematic 6.0L for the remaining two thirds of that model year. Which of the two would really interest you?


As for swapping in a Cummins engine, well that's a whole other ball game altogether. I personally fail to see what all the hype is with the Cummins engine, other than it seems like they appear to be the Chevy small block of the diesel world. And for what it's worth, anything and everything will be far more expensive to service and repair on a diesel, versus that of a gas engine. Don't think for any moment that simply swapping in that Cummins engine will be the end of needing to go back under the hood for anything else. Quite the opposite actually!!!


As for crate engines, Ford is your best bet for that deal. Avoid anything made by Jasper engines unless you enjoy headaches and nightmares. As for any other source, I don't want to say what I don't know. What I do know is, with Ford it'll complete with valve covers, engine front cover, oil pan and spark plugs. Just transfer your intake and exhaust manifolds and bolt it right in!!! Is it the costlier option? Yes, but you get what you pay for, but if you were serious about pursuing this option I'm sure you can deal directly with the parts manager of your nearest Ford dealer local to you, about the price. I probably shouldn't be telling you this, but dealers will usually be willing to drop the price of the long block assembly down to only a percentage above cost price to those who are serious about it. And going this route, you involve the least amount of labour. By your own admission of not being very electrical savvy, I would strongly suggest against choosing anything other than what the truck came equipped with. Because by choosing otherwise, where the real work begins will be when the wrenches stop turning and the metal fabrication has completed....if you know what I mean. At the end of the day, it's YOUR truck and YOUR money. I hope I've put things into a little better perspective for you.

 

Ya i strongly dislike diesels, i dont know what i was thinkin! Interesting tidbit though, when i did my lift i got 12" lift leaves for a diesel( iv got leaves all the way round) which ended up lifting the front about an inch and a half higher than the back. The blocks that came for the rear were an inch smaller than factory and not shimed, so i was able to just use the factor blocks which leveled the truck out and gave almost perfect pinion angle again. Sorry just had to add that. I get excited as the say, when a plan comes together! anyway thanks for all the input everyone, its alot more clear what my options are, cheers