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EFI 460 help

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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 03:05 PM
  #16  
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I have tested it, no analog meter so I don't know if there are minuscule breaks somewhere, but it all checked out on my digital. This efi sure is a pain.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 03:34 PM
  #17  
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From: Ky
Any troubleshooting section in any manual will have a list of symptoms, the symptoms you've outlined, that have to be systematically addressed, it's a vehicle, not the Shuttle.

But if it were the Shuttle for example, there is a scheduled periodic replacement of parts based on time, not breakdown.

Your truck is 30 yrs. old, and as such, if your going to keep it, anything you do is money in the bank from the stand point of an A&P wrench.

Anything original is ready to go!

If you have good compression on all cylinders, a full tune-up with plugs, cap/rotor and wires, you have to time that truck with the SPOUT shorting bar removed, per MANUAL, to 10 degrees TDC, then verify advance with the shorting bar installed to the manual's spec.

Eliminate any question of fuel shortage, ICM slowing failing, or PIP coil in distributor failing.

There are no shortcuts on old digitally-controlled vehicles.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 01:01 PM
  #18  
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Check your Dizzy shaft for play.
Take a close look at the electrodes inside the dizzy cap and the rotor button to see if they are are making contact due to play in the shaft.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 12:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Check your Dizzy shaft for play.
Take a close look at the electrodes inside the dizzy cap and the rotor button to see if they are are making contact due to play in the shaft.
Will check in AM if I have time. Cap and rotor are making solid contact. Going to get a TPS, TFI, and EGR next time I'm at the JY.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 12:45 AM
  #20  
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"Going to get a TPS, TFI, and EGR next time I'm at the JY." ...

this will introduce new variables into the mix.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 01:19 AM
  #21  
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Well I figured it must be a sensor that isn't throwing a code, like the TPS, maybe there is a dead spot in the sensor, or maybe when the TFI heats up it doesn't always want to work right. Anyone got any better ideas? Also, timing verified 10* BTDC
 
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 08:55 AM
  #22  
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Have you done a fuel pressure leak-down test after engine shutdown?

Warm up engine to perform test, seems like a good idea.

Ford spec. is a hold of pressure/max leak-down not to exceed 2psi in 3 minutes (approx. didn't look it up).

Also when you refer to "TFI", I'm curious, the system is "TFI", I'm not aware of a particular component with that abbreviation.

When the truck is properly timed, the distributor-mounted "ICM" should be pointing forward, or slightly to the right, and no where near the thermostat housing.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 09:36 AM
  #23  
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TFI is "thick film intergrated ignition" which is how Ford describes it's type of ignition system in this generation vehicles.

Yes he technically should have referred to it as ICM.

No biggie.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 09:42 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by TobaccoBarn460
Also when you refer to "TFI", I'm curious, the system is "TFI", I'm not aware of a particular component with that abbreviation.
TFI stands for Thick Film Integrated.
It is a way of putting electronic components together.

Ford uses this way to manufacture the ICM.

Thick-film circuits are widely used in the automotive industry, both in sensors, e.g. mixture of fuel/air, pressure sensors, engine and gearbox controls, sensor for releasing airbags, ignitors to airbags; common is that high reliability is required, often extended temperature range also along massive thermocycling of circuits without failure.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TobaccoBarn460
Have you done a fuel pressure leak-down test after engine shutdown?

Warm up engine to perform test, seems like a good idea.

Ford spec. is a hold of pressure/max leak-down not to exceed 2psi in 3 minutes (approx. didn't look it up).

Also when you refer to "TFI", I'm curious, the system is "TFI", I'm not aware of a particular component with that abbreviation.

When the truck is properly timed, the distributor-mounted "ICM" should be pointing forward, or slightly to the right, and no where near the thermostat housing.
Timing was a bit off, couldn't tell what It was before as I had to use a wrench to loosen the distributor and it was off. I believe it was pointed a bit toward the thermostat housing. Now it is factory correct with no change. Fuel pressure leak down was satisfactory when I checked earlier.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 07:44 PM
  #26  
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Getting a bunch of sensors from a truck that ran great a few weeks ago tomorrow. I also found this: it is my symptoms exactly, and my front tank reads past full and my rear reads empty. I thought the sending unit only shows how much gas you have, it should not have anything to do with fuel pressure or rough running conditions. Any input? Name:  photo610.jpg
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by 84red
I thought the sending unit only shows how much gas you have, it should not have anything to do with fuel pressure or rough running conditions.
The sending unit does not have anything to do with fuel pressure or rough running conditions.
It is a separate circuit to the dash cluster. The only thing the sending unit has in common with the fuel pump is the grounding point.
A gauge that reads passes full has an open circuit to ground. A gauge that reads passed empty has a short to ground before the sending unit.

Note the EVTM page 84 below say just the other way around but I think it is wrong on the resistance.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 07:57 PM
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Where is the grounding point? Do both pumps ground at the same spot? Both tank fuel pumps put out 4psi when KOEO. I read yet are supposed to put out between 8-11.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 08:13 PM
  #29  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by 84red
Where is the grounding point?
G801, LH (drivers side) inter fender behind headlamp.
Originally Posted by 84red
Do both pumps ground at the same spot?
Yes they do.
Originally Posted by 84red
Both tank fuel pumps put out 4psi when KOEO. I read yet are supposed to put out between 8-11.
Both tank pumps should put out 8-11psi.
Where are you hooking the fuel gauge, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail should be about 40psi with pin #6 of the self-test plug grounded and the key on.

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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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Looking around on the inner fender, all I am seeing is one small probably 14-16gauge wire grounding right next to the washer fluid reservoir. Is that it? Seems like it's too small to be that important. Any where else it would be? That's the only grounded wire I see behind the headlight housing.
 
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