Finally got my dad's best friend (master Mechanic) to get the trans lined up to the block....(took me attempting three days and not getting it) and the tech
took only 20 minutes to get it to give out that satisfying thump sound indicating the units were mated...

Anyhow....I finished installing the front units on the engine only to crank the engine and find out the air pump had siezed (when removing it, plug the inlet/outlet bungs as ANY moisture will make this pump sieze...

We went to Kragen's in Watsonville and the clerk brought out an air pump that looked more like an import alternator......After driving to San Jose and finding the truck wrecking yard closed (Sunday morning) GF and I drove back toward Capitola and the guy at the Kragen there told me that the store in Watsonville had two units in stock...and both happened to be the same part number for the application. (there are four kinds)

So I ask the clerk to kindly bring out both and there it was....after all that trouble and driving...

so....it bolts on no problems and GF gets the #3 injector plug on (with the upper intake already installed) heheh

we finish going over and checking everything tightening and wiping down.

we crank it up and it fires right up.....the idle surges and there is a slight miss....

My bud Chris grabs his Snap On timing light and we basically warm the engine up per Ford MoCo spec recommendations....turn it off and allow it to cool,
we then disconnect the dist timing plug and turn the engine back on to set the timing to 10*ATDC. THe engine no longer surges and begins an extremely silky smooth idle (absolutely no shakes).....we continue to revv it to 1500-1800 rpms to help with breaking in.

After tightening the dist we checked the timing once more and it was right on.

the oil psi was good and the temp never touched the N.

The Edelbrock cyl heads and the intake port matching really woke this engine up......we decided to install the cam on Friday and that went pretty quick.

The low end grunt is superior to the stock heads and cam, But the power really starts to kick in at around 1200rpms....throttle response is excellent. This is a great setup for towing and passing situations. The exhaust smells like a new car's exhaust. Tomorrow the Bronco will go in for its Biannual emissions inspection.

The comp cams pro magnum roller rockers (1.6) are not as noisy as most have assumed or asserted (Perhaps they want to steer me clear of an option that will allow me to blow their bowtie doors off.) These really helped smooth the idle out and reduce valvetrain friction as well as relieve valve head and stem side loading (which can cause premature valve guide wear)

The FRPP "motorsport" valve covers fit right on the money.....just grind down the thee large cylindrical bumps and remove the baffles (I also used the FRPP O ring type valve cover gaskets which add some clearance)

(Note: use the existing air cleaner to valve cover filler tube nipple tubing, just insert a hose that will fit inside the larger diameter tubing and the smaller one will press onto the smaller diameter FRPP valve cover nipple)

I then disconnected the battery for 5 mins so the ECU can reset and checked for codes and got none.

The drive to WIne country tonight was quite fun, the onramps are not a challenge anymore and passing is a an exhilarating reality, which is something every Bronco owner desires.

Uphill the beast just has the torque to speed up at an alarming rate, no more bogging or slowing traffic down.

In a week I should gt the Bassani Y pipe and have it thermal barrier coated and the Dyno for the Diablo chip going.....then a final Dyno to share the numbers with you folks.

remember, running Emmissions legal horsepower can get expensive but boy is it worth it!!!

My hope is to go from 210 stock hp to close to 300hp and to better the stock
325 ft lbs of torque with at least 400.

regards
R

 

Sounds like a pretty stout setup. If you dont mind me asking, how much did that set you back total? I am always trying to find new ways to make my 96 even better.


Rich

 

edelbrock performer heads $1090
portmatching intake did myself (coatings $150)
one new injector $45 (all others were good)
cap and rotor $35 motorcraft
ford racing 9mm wires $35
shorty headers $400
Flowmaster catback SUV 2 chamber 2x2.5inch $180
motorsport valve covers $140
K and N air filter $30
NGK iridium plugs $42
MSD6AL $going rate at summit
heat dispersant coating on heads $150
FRPP 5.8 shortblock $1100
gaskets from Ford $120
MR Gasket exh gaskets $20
Flexplate $65
New Balancer (EFFed original one up pulling it) $85
Water pump $60
custom camshaft camresearch $165
fomoco hyd lifters $65
Trickflow hardened pushrods $100
comp cams pro mag roller rockers $250
Transgo shift kit $130
Fomoco ign module $45
smog air pump $49.95

the stuff adds up quick....

But I now have an extremely reliable truck that I know won't leave me on the road...

other costs coming soon,
diablo chip and custom programming fee
bassani y pipe and thermal barrier coating

 

hey capone are you still running the speed density system on there or did you convert over to mass air. and were did you order the 351 ford shortblock. not a bad price and what kinda warranty came with it?

later

 

I am still running the speed density with no problems...

just make sure that when you assemble the motor, you have no vacuum leaks....I even went so far as to apply an ultrathin film of copperseal on the intake gaskets.

Also make sure the hard vacuum lines aren't cracked etc..

The truck did surge because of the dist timing....just warm the truck up to normal op temps and follow the instructions on the catalyst sticker located on the air cleaner.

The 5.8 immediately settled down and started running silky smooth.

I just looked at my cam card and need to let you guys know that my lobe separation angle is actually at 113. I mistakenly said it was 112. Sorry about that.

Scott at camresearch is awesome, these guys do custom grinds and they even break the cams in for you flat tappet guys...

The shortblock was ordered through a friend of mine....at a dealer.The warranty is non existent since ford racing products are aftermarket products.

This however doesn't mean you will get a shoddy engine it just means that it is not a production engine and ford won't back a unit that isn't stock.....this stuff will last 200k miles...if maintained properly and depending on driving application and habits.

The oil is gonna get changed today in preparation for the smog test....will post the results of that test.

After a run in period of 3000 miles, I will switch over to royal purple synthetic oil, one of the if not THE best synthetic engine lubricants on the market. I would also suggest using Wix oil filters or even purolator (same as motorcraft).

Now where's that guy with the powerstroke diesel....I need to blow his doors off!!!

 

You should be more like 350-370 HP WHOOOHOOO!!! DW

 

I don't know, but it sure does get up and Go!!! It really responds well to 91 octane.....perhaps I will just run the 87 plus some 104+

Absolutely no knocking or pinging either...even with the 87 octane.

 

That great, what flexplate & balancer did you get for the motor

late

 

"I am still running the speed density with no problems..."

That's good to hear. All I have read all over the net is how you can't possibly modify an SD motor very far from stock or you'll have nothing but misery. Glad to hear you're so pleased with your engine. Please share your future troublespots with us should any arise with the SD. That kind of info is usually more helpful to us than the success stories.

 

Kem, buddy of mine got balancer and flexplate from the Ford dealership he works at...

I tore the original balancer apart using the 3 pronged extractor so this is the first doofus of the day...

the second doofus was cutting the fuel lines to remove the engine.....bad move...since these are now obsolete....use a smaller prybar to back the flared plastic hose off the barbed connections.

The third doofus happened when I was reassembling the powerplant....preinstall the injector harness BEFORE you install the upper intake.

the fourth and final doofus was when I did not cover the lower intake ports AND the distributor access hole. (dropped a bolt in there..and had to remove the oil pan after all that work...)

Now, the largest thing about adding a cam in is the vacuum signal....If you are a bit paranoid about messing with the vacuum signal, run a custom grind that uses lobe separation angle no less than 112 (stock is 114) for excellent vacuum...)

I would add a bit of lift and keep the duration as stock as possible
(If running stock heads run a bit more duration on the exhaust side) this is known as a double profile camshaft.

I also went with the 1.6 roller rockers to add a bit of valve lift as well.

I would also advise on keeping the thermactor air system as it helps in keeping the unburnt gases burning as it travels down into the cat converter...

Use this time to clean that thermactor air pump crossover..
I used my mustang's onld oil dipstick as it is flexible...
I ended up removing gobs and gobs of carbon deposits and continue to jab at the tubes via the alum mounting blocks until you can blow unrestricted air into the check valve.

Next I will add the Y pipe and the chip, and I will also have the chip man calibrate the rig for 32 inch tires. The Y pipe is at the shop getting it thermal barrier coating (black inside and aluminized out) I will also follow Greystreak's adive and wrap the
intake air hoses with thermal barrier tape to help control air temps going into the engine.

It is also adviseable top use spark plug cable thermal boots to keep the EGR stovepipe from burning through the insulation...and causing the crossfiring I experienced before the teardown.

I haven't really jumped on the truck yet as I am allowing for breakin period to set in.

I am sure the truck will now cook the rear tires on demand.

First oil change after initial startup was done yesterday.

be sure to use a good quality oil filter....Fram, Bosch and STP filters don't cut it....they use plastic resin stops and this allows the contaminated oil to seep back into the moving parts upon shutdown.

I like WIX, Purolator and Motorcraft.

 

awsome makes my heart pound