37" tires will make your truck feel substantially sluggish compared to stock, particularly with the gas engine. I would highly recommend getting the 4.30 axle ratio with the gas engine over the very common 3.73. Your fuel economy will be pretty awful, but most people don't care.

If you're not planning on towing and just occasionally plan to use the bed, this arrangement will be fine. Even lighter towing would be OK.

 

Ya I don稚 mind the gas mpg going down and I have not bought the truck yet. I知 looking to get one this month. So I won稚 really be able to compare the before and after just want to make sure it won稚 be dragging in my every day driving.

 

Why not get an F350. They are the same price. If you want to do a lift, and look a bit more manly, a F350 is the way to go.

It will also help resale and if you ever want to tow, you are all set.

 

No price difference but what about gas I don稚 mind my gas mpg going down but I don稚 want 2 mpg haha

 

You likely already know this but with those tires and lift you won't fit in most parking garages. I know... Captain Obvious.

 

You'll drop around 2 probably. But if you're willing to pay for those tires and lift just for looks why worry about 2 mpg. And also I would get 3.73 and then go aftermarket for 4.56 or steeper

 

Definitely get the 4:30 gears with those tires. A F350 will cost you ~$1k more and would offer you greater payload rating. MPG would be slightly less with the F350's 6R140 tranny.
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How do you figure? He said he isn't towing.

The 250 has nicer rear springs for weekend offroader travels. You can get a 350, then toss the rear springs in the woods where they belong and put a set of Deavers on, or you can stick with the 250's softer springs. There's no point in getting stiff springs, just to remove them with a lift kit.

Sounds like you don't need the diesel. I recommend regearing to 4.56 for the 6.2L. If it's mostly a toy, heck, put 4.88 gears in. Powerwagons come with 4.56 gears. Put a locker in the front axle while you have it apart. Yukon Zip, Yukon Grizz, , or a Detroit. Make sure you order the rear E-locker. It's cheap, and actually pretty good. I don't know if the new generation Dana 60 front Eaton E-lockers are any good. The old ones weren't.

Look towards BDS and Carli for lifts. You only need a 4.5" lift for 37" tires. Some people are running 37's with just a leveling kit. You might need custom drive shafts made, especially if you do choose to go 6". Check out the "Stock truck, big meat" thread.

Most NEW modern design Mud Terrain tires will be quiet enough if you rotate them very often. Miss a rotation, and it's pure noise. Don't waste your time trying to wheel AT's, I recommend the Cooper STT Pro almost exclusively. It's not all that loud as long as you rotate them. Also check out the hybrid tires out there right now. Half way between AT's and MT's, and quiet as long as you rotate them. They'll never be as quiet as cheapo rain tires. Falken and Maxxis also have decent tires that "Walk the Walk". I wouldn't sweat noise too much. Well taken care of tires, aren't bad at all.

A little noise is worth the performance, and absolute durability increase, of better tires. I don't have any experience with the Atturo Blades. looks like an obsolete Cooper STT without the siping. For what they're charging, you're 75% of the way towards Real Cooper STT's or Maxxis tires.

 

I don稚 mind putting money into it because I want things done right but how much does it costs to get the axel changed and should I change anything else to make it run perfect

 

Starting with the best gearing option could save you a regear at roughly $2500+. Knowing you are going to run heavy taller tires the 4.30 should be a must on your purchase.

 

I have an F350 6.2 with 4.30 gears. I recently put Nitto G2’s on in a 35x11.5x20 tire. The truck had about 30,000 miles on it before I did the level and tire swap and I have not noticed a mileage change at all. I don’t even notice a difference in performance. I found a gear change/tire size calculator online and it says my effective gear ratio is about a 4.10 after my tire swap. I know the 37” tire is quite a bit bigger and I am sure you will notice a difference but I wouldn’t think it would be a big one. If you do the lift and tire swap and are not interested in changing the gears on a new truck make SURE you order the 4.30’s from Ford, the 6.2 likes to rev and having big tires and high gear ratios will kill your mileage and performance! I’ve found my truck gets better mileage while towing in 5th gear than it does towing in 6th. I think it gets lugged down too much and in turn burns more fuel. My truck is heavier than most because I have 2 tool boxes that are pretty much full all of the time, a 100 gallon auxiliary diesel fuel tank and 18 gallon DEF tank. On a scale my truck is about 10,000 pounds loaded normally for work.

 

Depends on the 37's. Big 37's and 4.30 will feel like the truck has a 3.55 gear. Some of the smaller ones maybe as good as 3.73. Even if you get the gears and RPM just right, you can't hide the extra weight of big tires.

Even with 4.56, it ain't going to feel peppy or impressive, just OK. Hence my rec for 4.88's if it's a pure weekend ride. I'm personally going with 4.56, because I'm perfectly fine with the way 3.73's feel on a stock truck. I don't punish my truck with the skinney pedal. I have other vehicles better suited for that.

I estimate $900 for gears maybe, $500 for the front Yukon Grizzly locker, and $1200 labor. (an entire day of labor ) But the guy I'm using does nothing but race car and truck axles. So he's quicker and cheaper than average. It's easy work for a pro that's done it before.

 

More like 3.85. Still higher than 3.73s

 

Know ahead of time, regardless of the brand of Truck you drive, Big offset Wheels/Tires equal a lifetime of unavoidable front suspension problems .. By doing so, you are changing the engineering of the entire vehicles steering, suspension and brakes.
If you go threw with this, I'd choose the F350 over the F250 to ensure the get the bigger transmission. As others have said, re-gearing is your only option a achieve any form of economy, let alone enough power to maintain Hwy speeds in OD.