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Wheel spacers?

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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 11:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jason90f150
Don't recommend. Save your money and get wheels with offset
Best advice here.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 07:26 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jason90f150
I ran some G2 1.25" spacers on my 95 150. The old wheels I had I needed them. But now I got a 15x10 wheel with a 46mm offset. Still rubs with a 4" suspension 3" body with 35's only at full lock but not too bad. I went thru at least 3 sets of wheel bearings in 1.5 years. I had constant issues running 33s let alone 35s. After I took them off I noticed right away better brakes, less vibration, and less highway vibration. Don't recommend. Save your money and get wheels with offset
Explain the difference in the load that your wheel bearings/brakes see when running a spacer/wheel or just a wheel with a back space measurement that that puts the wheel in the same place.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 07:29 AM
  #18  
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Brian it's pretty clear that the wheel spacer cuased him to have bad brakes. Sarcasm
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 07:37 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by humphrey169
Brian it's pretty clear that the wheel spacer cuased him to have bad brakes. Sarcasm
And we surely don't want people bumping into grocery carts!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 07:44 AM
  #20  
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They have "bumpers" for a reason
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 02:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by raystankewitz
Sounds like you're thinking of an adaptor that has its own studs. A spacer is more of shim with holes in it for the existing studs to pass through.

My issues with spacers is the fact a thick enough spacer will prevent the center of the wheel from registering on the hub, making the assembly stud-centric and not hub-centric. Might not be bad on a 3/4 ton with eight 9/16" studs, not overloaded. On the other hand, a 1/2 ton having only five 1/2" studs, might not be too safe when typically overloaded by a Gen 7-8-9 owner.

Just my $0.02 USD worth.

1/2 tons in the 92-96 OBS are lug centric - centered by the lugs, not by the hub

Are 3/4 + tons hub centric?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 03:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by McLeod
1/2 tons in the 92-96 OBS are lug centric - centered by the lugs, not by the hub

Are 3/4 + tons hub centric?
My '97 F250HD is hub-centric. That's why the factory Alcoa aluminum wheels used more of a hubcap rather than a push-through cap. No room for that push-through. And, most aftermarket wheel push-through caps won't work due to that reason. I believe my '00 SD dually was that way, too.

So on an F150, the center pilot bore of the wheel is not snug to the hub? Free to rattle around before the lugs are tightened?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by raystankewitz
So on an F150, the center pilot bore of the wheel is not snug to the hub? Free to rattle around before the lugs are tightened?
F150 and Bronco- including my '66 = yes
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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Wheel spacers are 100% safe IF they are installed properly and are the right spacer for the application. If you are using the factory wheels they are hub centric so you must buy a hub centric spacer. If you use the ones that bolt to the factory studs and have there own studs (this is what I recommend) you have to make sure the factory studs don't stick out past the mounting surface of the wheel, if they do then you have to trim the wheel studs down. When you Install the spacers you need to use thread locker on the inner studs and torque them down to spec with a torque wrench. I have been running 2" hub centric aluminum spacers with my factory wheels for over a year without a single issue.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 05:27 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
Wheel spacers are 100% safe IF they are installed properly and are the right spacer for the application. If you are using the factory wheels they are hub centric so you must buy a hub centric spacer. If you use the ones that bolt to the factory studs and have there own studs (this is what I recommend) you have to make sure the factory studs don't stick out past the mounting surface of the wheel, if they do then you have to trim the wheel studs down. When you Install the spacers you need to use thread locker on the inner studs and torque them down to spec with a torque wrench. I have been running 2" hub centric aluminum spacers with my factory wheels for over a year without a single issue.
Initially, I was going to install the 1 1/2" spacers/adapters, but too much would have had to have been trimmed from the rear wheel studs...so I went with the 2" instead. Even then, I had to take about 3/8" off. I run factory Alcoas...no problems...and CK the torque of the studs when I rotate tires...always tight.
 
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