I am asking in case someone has had the same or similar experience. Researching has not really turned up anything definite. I see everything from “crankshaft sensors don’t go bad” to “replaced the crankshaft sensor and never had another problem”. Just looking for some guidance. I do plan on getting in there and troubleshooting myself but I can’t do that until Wednesday when I start days off. I’m trying to get a gameplan together ahead of time!

Yesterday my I warmed up Excursion and drove down the road and when I got on the highway I hit the accelerator and she started bucking and surging RPM. I drove slowly back to the house and checked my DTC codes and got these codes:
P0263- Powertrain
Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance
P0336- Powertrain
Crankshaft Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance

She starts and idles fine. Oil and filter has been changed within 2000 miles. The most recent problem has been blowing off my intake boot after replacing my degas bottle due to a heat crack. I had to pull off my Riff Raff upper intake boot for the first time since I installed them. I just cleaned the boot with Dawn and hot water to remove oil and cleaned the intake with brake cleaner and sprayed a little old lady hairspray on it to keep the boot on. I was contemplating the CCV mod where you add a Racor CCV filter and route the hose back into the turbo intake to keep the oil from saturating the intercooler, pipes and hoses.

Here is my readout at idle after this happened. Note the negative boost.

 

Check the crank sensor harness for chaffing, might take the plug off to check it as well.
Sometimes just removing and reinstalling the plug helps if there is a little gunk or corrosion messing with things.
Check the hose to the MAP sensor to be sure it's not cracked anywhere, check the nipple where it hooks into the top of the intake, might be gummed up. Clean with some weed trimmer line or wire.
I'm sure there are some other things I am missing

 

I will definitely check the crank sensor harness and plug. I didn’t have much time so I didn’t check the MAP sensor plug. I am wondering if blowing that boot off at 28 lbs of boost might have screwed up the sensor plug or wiring. Exactly the type of feedback I was looking for. Thanks!

 

I would double check the VGT solenoid wiring and plug if you blew the topside of the CAC boot on that hot side off.
That loom is right next to where the boot clamps to the turbo

 

Hmmm.... sounds very familiar. Going through this with my Ex 04 early build. I can't say for sure but the cylinder 1 contribution code is your key here. You have a bad injector. Still check your harness for chaffing, but I'm willing to bet it's shorting out and causing the problem. Check your fuel pressure too. when where the filters last changed? I've been under the weather and did enough to get it running. I'm pulling the injectors soon and will let you know. I'll bet that's your issue and not the the cam/crank sensor.

 

Fuel filters were changed 7,579 miles ago and oil 2,378 miles ago with Motorcraft parts.
I checked the crank sensor when I got home from work today and it looks like the o-ring is leaking a little oil but I started looking at the wires around the turbo because I noticed negative boost and found the wires were rubbing on the spring clamp on the hose fitting on the oil cooler hose. Perfect. Now I need to figure out if I can fix this chafing issue or need a new harness. I hope it can be cleaned up and spliced and I don’t need to replace the harness. Amazing how much trouble a 15 year old vehicle can be...I got to wiggling wires and now I got more codes and the truck is running rough at idle. Yeehaw!

 

This past summer I had surging issues. One morning on the highway it began to accelerate so since I was on the highway I let it go. Looking at my Scangage 2 I notced that the EOT read -6* F. When the the surging ended I noticed that the EOT was climbing up to normal temperature. I bought a new EOT sensor but never installed it and haven't had a surging issue since. On a side note; (a nod to the tin foil hat crowd) during the time that my 6.0 had surging issues it was running on Rottela T6 for the first and last time. It never surged before or after using Rottella.

 

I use Schaeffer’s, that ****’s expensive, it better not cause issues after all this time! It is definitely a chafing issue. I just hope it did not ruin an injector. I am searching for info on repairing chafed wires right now.

 

As far as the Rottela is concerned it's a non-issue because it's like proving a negative. However the EOT reading -6* while the engine is surging in the summer in McAllen Texas is of interest, the ECM (the computer) adds fuel during extreme cold operation. Just saying, you checked the gauges after the surge episode. If you experience another surging episode, take a look at the EOT and ECT gauges during the surge.

 

I’m probably just going to drop the coin on new harnesses for the engine and injectors because last thing I want are issues with some scabbed together harness. Looking for the best prices if anyone has any input.

 

I run the 5W40 Schaeffers in the boys truck, it's some good oil.
After the second change I noticed it stays cleaner longer, and I love the smell of that stuff

 

just out of curiosity do you have an idea of what your fuel pressure reading is when you got on it?? when both my regulator spring and lift pump went the truck bucked and then ran rough like you were driving down a cobble stone road till the pump caught back up after letting off...

also if i get on it while the trannys still cold it feels like it just sits there and slips during shifts.. will sometimes buck a little as its trying to catch the next gear.. once the tranny gets finally warmed up it quits that crap.. with your trans temps at 68 i wouldnt put it past that as being another possibility..

 

No I don’t have a fuel pressure sensor but do have the blue spring. I am very sure this is a chafing issue, I would put money on it.

 

tbh i know many here didnt have problems after the install of the blue spring.. but i had nothing but problems with them on mine.. why i ended up converting mine to a regulated return when i had the engine apart. fuel pressure gauge would definitely be a handy thing to get installed. but i hope the harness chafing is the issue for you..

 

I am working on the harness as a temporary fix...After messing with splicing the wires with crimp and solder with heat shrink butt connectors I noticed my VGT solenoid plug was cracked and the VGT sensor where the plug slides in is also cracked and brittle from heat (hence negative boost readings). I ordered a new VGT solenoid, pigtail and crank sensor while I was at it because my codes all cleared except the Crank Position code. There is oil around the sensor so I want to replace it too. I think this might be part of my issue but I’m also trying to decide which method I want for fuel pressure monitoring.