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Well.... lets call the booster clean up good to go... and hope for the best!
Pulled wire from proportion valve and light went out. This part needs replacement?
LOL good to go and hope......add fingers crossed
That valve does (should) not need to be replaced.
The brake system is a 2 part system, a front and a back, that is why the 2 sumps on the master.
Any way when 1 part losses pressure, front or back, a valve moves inside to block off that leaky side and trips the light to let you know there is an issue with the brakes.
Sometimes taking pressure away on the other side after the fix will push the valve back to center and turn the light off.
Other than that I cant help as mine have always reset themselves >
Dave ----
Pulled wire from proportion valve and light went out. This part needs replacement?
Sometimes they just get stuck and need cleaned. Also, I've heard of an O-ring inside there leaking and making the light go off. All that should be holding it in is a pipe plug or big bolt, so you should be able to pop it out pretty quickly and R&R it if need be
Sometimes they just get stuck and need cleaned. Also, I've heard of an O-ring inside there leaking and making the light go off. All that should be holding it in is a pipe plug or big bolt, so you should be able to pop it out pretty quickly and R&R it if need be
The tricky part is figuring out which way the little piston in the proportioning valve has moved. If you had a problem with the rear brakes, then the piston has slid to the rear brake side. If you had a problem with the front brakes, the piston has slid to the front side.
If the piston has slid to the rear brake system because you a problem back there, once you get it fixed you can open a bleeder on the front and stomp the brake pedal hard so high pressure from the rear system will shove the piston back to the middle.
When you stomp it, keep the pedal down and close the bleeder before you lift so you do not suck air into the brake system.
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