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I just bought a 77 f250 supercab ranger XLT w/460. Previous owner took it upon himself to rip out pretty much all the vacuum lines. Can someone point me in the direction to find a detailed vacuum diagram and if anyone knows if and where I can get a complete vacuum kit so I can just redo everything.
Never heard of any kit unfortunately. And it likely would only come for a few of the most popular, widely used still today, and expensive vehicles sold.
And with practically every vehicle having it's own unique setup back then, even a "kit" for, say, a '78 Torino Station Wagon would be totally different from a '77 F150 with 6100 GVWR, which would have been different from a '77 F150 with the 6550 GVWR.
So yeah, anything you need to do to bring it back almost into the modern world is going to be custom on your part.
Hopefully I'm wrong on all of that though, and someone has a kit that I just have not heard of. But the best resource is going to be pictures of still-original engine compartments.
Does your hood still have at least one legible vacuum routing diagram on it? If so that's a start.
Oh, and for '77, what is the DSO listed on your VIN/Warranty plate? Reason I ask is that, depending on where it was first delivered, you may not have several of the same items that another truck might. Such as a New Jersey truck vs a CA truck, for example.
The best bet at this point is that someone has a link to a diagram that you can at least start with. As you were asking originally.
That's what I was afraid of. My dad has a 78 250 ranger camper special. I checked his vacuum routing and his has many more lines than mine ever appeared to have. At first glance there is a VCV in the intake manifold where mine has a factory plug in it.
Ok, so, look at the drivers side valve cover. There was a tag on it that had loads of information. One of those is a number which is related to emissions. With that number, I believe numberdummy can get you a emissions lay out which has all the vacuum lines and associated pieces.
I don't know if more information is available or better than what I had access to when I was doing emission testing in the 80s and 90s but I had volumes of Chilton and motors vacuum diagrams and never found one 100% consistent with any vehicle I needed information on. I did not have access to any Ford publications because they were pretty protective and did not like to share anything with independent shops. I fought with the local dealership over things like the crappy Bronco II pattern failure rate and knew about the recall a year before the dealership acknowledged it. Sadly this vehicle is on the cusp of years when vacuum engine controls got pretty complicated and troublesome. By 78 they had a confusing tangle of vacuum engine controls. Much of what you need like delays and brakes were color coded and that's how you ordered a new component, by the color of the old one so if it's missing altogether, it is nearly impossible to know which part would be right for your calibration. I suggest just getting the basic systems down, like the vacuum advance and thermostatic air cleaner. You do not need to run the advance through a TVS or use the delays for a proper running engine. The thermostatic air cleaner is a plus in colder climates but if you live where it's warm can be eliminated.
If you live where a visual inspection is required for emissions testing, ask the test station to get you in touch with the referee station to see how to proceed. They must have a process for these situations. Most jurisdictions use private shops as test facilitys and it's very likely the testing tech isn't totally savy on ALL the processes available.
For vacuum diagrams, I have founds the factory service manual to be excellent. I have an old paper copy. These are available on Ebay. Or available on in electronic form on CD.
Lines and "T's" to replace original are available at most AP stores. Fittings in the help section and lines behind the counter. Last I checked the vacuum switches are as available as order also.
Sorting this out takes time and patience but I think parts needed are mostly readily available.
I will also share a philosophy... keeping the stock vacuum setup has advantages in both drivability and servicability. Non stock can work also with complete new carb and distributor setup. Simply removing vacuum lines from a stock setup is a step backwards. I understand why you want to put it back.
FWIW my Dent runs the stock setup (and runs well). Maybe some day I will change... if I do I will completely re-do the OE system... not just remove vacuum lines.