2000 v10 2wd 175k

Get a clunk when dropping into reverse. Can hear it and feel it. Is this solved by greasing the slipjoint? From what I've read it can fix problems with clunks off the line but mine is just when dropping into reverse at a stop. No clunking any other times.

 

Good to check u-joints while greasing the slip joint. Any excessive movement at the t-case or rear diff?

 

Slip joint, u-joints, or preload issues on the rear diff. Crawl underneath and start looking for slop. Turn the DS while in park and see how much movement there is at the pinion on the differential. If that's good, grab the DS and start looking for deflection at the u-joints in all directions. If tight, move to the slip joint and do the same there.

 

When you are checking u joints, make sure to jack up the rear end and support the axle on jack stands. That way it takes the load off the driveshaft and itll allow you to check for slop in the u joints.

 

Thanks guys. I had someone help me and shift through gears while I observed the drive shaft today. Funny thing was that it clunked into reverse getting into the driveway, then completely stopped doing it when I was recording. Looks like staying in park with the parking brake on, and letting off the brake pedal somehow got things to settle and made it stop clunking?


I haven't had a chance to properly check things for play yet... should be able to do that next weekend.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Let us know how the u-joints turn out.

 

I jacked up the rear axle and tested the u joints. The axle side seems pretty tight. The tranny side has more play. I can hear a clicking. But it doesn't seem like the u joint, maybe the slip joint?

I know that u joints can be hard to diagnose though, maybe I should just replace them while I have the driveshaft out? I already have a ball joint press that should work.

 

I dropped the drive shaft and lubed the slip joint. The U joints feel good. Move freely and don't seem worn out (clicking or anything).

The splines were completely dry so I put some bearing grease on them.

Still clunking the same as always. Only when dropping into reverse. Doesn't matter if I shift to park first.. go to neutral with parking brake... still thunks when I put it into reverse at my destination.

 

It looks like there is lateral movement at the output shaft. Maybe I'm seeing things in the video.

 

True there is a little, what would cause that?

Edit: want to add in a new theory... something in the rear axle. I noticed that when I was standing still in my first video there's no clunking. But if I move forward, go reverse, there's a clunk. It seems like there's some slack between the gears or something that causes that clunk. I've been told it could be the pinion needing to be shimmed or torque to spec? I'm hoping I don't have to do any sort of serious rebuild or anything.

 

Kinda a laundry list here:

1. worn differential carrier bearings or pinion bearings,
2. broken or worn differential (spider) gears,
3. a loose pinion nut,
4. improperly adjusted backlash, or

I replaced a pinion seal a few yrs back and will check the pinion nut for tightness for the cause of my clunk.

From da web:

Problem: Gears “clunk” from a dead stop.

Possible Cause #1: Does the “clunk” sound only occur when your vehicle starts to move? In this case, the gears typically aren’t the problem at all. Instead, it’s often a loose pinion yoke, bad U-joint, or worn transmission making the noise.

Possible Cause #2: A second possible cause is the crush sleeve. If the crush sleeve is not crushed properly, the pinion yoke will be loose and the pinion bearings will not be seated correctly. Keep in mind, it typically takes 300-400 ft.-lbs. to effectively crush the crush sleeve.

 

Thank you wpnaes,

Unfortunately I am not that schooled in rear axles. I honestly have no clue how to test for those different things, although I am aware of the different parts after some research.

I can say that it absolutely does NOT happen when the vehicle moves. I keep my foot on the brake -> shift to reverse -> CLUNK -> then move.


So I guess that DOES point to the gears.

I purchased this excursion about 6 months ago and changed out the rear diff fluid as one of the first maintenance items I did. Which I could go back and inspect things more clearly, although I do remember nothing seemed out of the ordinary or clearly chewed up to my eye. Although I was a bit weary of poking around too much at the time.

Edit: as far as testing pinion nut/crush sleeve I think that wouldn't be too hard to test. I guess I could drop the drive shaft again, remove rear tires and calipers, then remove the seal and make sure it takes 8-14in lb or whatever to turn it. I'd just have to replace the seal I suppose.

 

On mine, I’m going to try tightening the nut a 1/2turn and check again for clunking. Pinion Seal shouldn’t be affected. Might be a bit more crush left in the sleeve. As I recall the testing is done without the axles. See Ian’s video of the scout axle in post 40.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10449902

 

Thanks, that was a great video. Didn't realize you are dealing with the same issue.

So it seems 4x4 and 2wd excursions all share the same Ford 10.5 rear axle. These all have a crush sleeve as opposed to pinion shims?

 

As far as I know, they all came with Sterling 10.5’s and crush sleeves, but who knows, there might be an odd ball 10.25 out there that got swapped.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterling_10.5_axle