2010 6.0 no start
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Freshman User
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thanx, but its all greek to me
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Any background information on what led up to your no-start situation? Was it driving along as normal, then out of the blue it just died as though someone had turned the key off and unable to restart since? Or was it driving normally, then parked somewhere and then unable to restart since? If it quit while driving did it just quit gradually like you ran out of fuel? Do you have a device to read live data of all the PIDs others have posted for you to read while cranking the engine over? If so, what are the readings?
By the way VC-3-B is Motorcraft Orange coolant. This is the incorrect coolant for your vehicle. That is the coolant used on newer Ford vehicles. All 6.0L diesels use Ford Gold coolant (part number VC-7-B). I would strongly suggest you have that orange coolant flushed out of the system ASAP once you get your no-start issue resolved.
By the way VC-3-B is Motorcraft Orange coolant. This is the incorrect coolant for your vehicle. That is the coolant used on newer Ford vehicles. All 6.0L diesels use Ford Gold coolant (part number VC-7-B). I would strongly suggest you have that orange coolant flushed out of the system ASAP once you get your no-start issue resolved.
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Freshman User
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Ok, I have no problem with the work on the invoice that was done last summer. It was a partial bulletproof.
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head stuff.
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head stuff.
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Ok, I have no problem with the work on the invoice that was done last summer. It was a partial bulletproof.
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head studs .
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head studs .
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16599085
Here is a thread with more scangauge info and it is about a no start condition also. The link puts you in the middle of the thread with the scangauge information.
Here is a thread with more scangauge info and it is about a no start condition also. The link puts you in the middle of the thread with the scangauge information.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16599085
Here is a thread with more scangauge info and it is about a no start condition also. The link puts you in the middle of the thread with the scangauge information.
Here is a thread with more scangauge info and it is about a no start condition also. The link puts you in the middle of the thread with the scangauge information.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Ok, I have no problem with the work on the invoice that was done last summer. It was a partial bulletproof.
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head stuff.
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
EGR Delete kit , everything but the head stuff.
anyway,
about a month ago it started fine, went to work, came out, Wouldn't start, had it towed, next morning it started fine.
every once in awhile the oil lite on the Digital dash shows up.
like a limp mode lite. So after a bout 4 start no start incidences, i changed oil and filter, I changed the FICM sensor.
ran for a day. Then it thru a ICP code.
The EBP and ICP looked similar. I put the ICP in the EBP hole.
it started right up, poor power. Then it thru a EBP code.
then I found my mistake, so, new EBP, with new PIGTAIL,
and new ICP, in correct spots.
then DRAINED FUEL WATER separater.
now won' start. I primed the Fuel.
I'm at a loss
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
So what were the exact codes thrown? P2285, or P2290/P2291? For what it's worth, I have seen even 2010 model year E-Series 6.0L vans needing new updated dummy rail plugs replaced in order to correct the engine failing to start when the engine is at operating temperature (but starts fine when the engine is cold). Yes even the 2010 model year versions of this engine originally used the rail plugs without the updated white Teflon reinforcement rings. And yes I understand removing the passenger side valve cover to access and replace that rail plug sucks monumentally on an E-Series, likely even more so on a bus application like the one pictured in the original post of this thread with the barn door opening mechanism above the doghouse cover impeding access even more.
Hence why my signature about working on E-Series 6.0L Diesels, pretty soon to be updated to include 3.2L Diesel Transits too.....
Hence why my signature about working on E-Series 6.0L Diesels, pretty soon to be updated to include 3.2L Diesel Transits too.....
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 32
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So what were the exact codes thrown? P2285, or P2290/P2291? For what it's worth, I have seen even 2010 model year E-Series 6.0L vans needing new updated dummy rail plugs replaced in order to correct the engine failing to start when the engine is at operating temperature (but starts fine when the engine is cold). Yes even the 2010 model year versions of this engine originally used the rail plugs without the updated white Teflon reinforcement rings. And yes I understand removing the passenger side valve cover to access and replace that rail plug sucks monumentally on an E-Series, likely even more so on a bus application like the one pictured in the original post of this thread with the barn door opening mechanism above the doghouse cover impeding access even more.
Hence why my signature about working on E-Series 6.0L Diesels, pretty soon to be updated to include 3.2L Diesel Transits too.....
Hence why my signature about working on E-Series 6.0L Diesels, pretty soon to be updated to include 3.2L Diesel Transits too.....
gonna use my Scan G 2 2marro
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Freshman User
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nowhere on YouTube is their a 2010 6.0 video.
frustrating
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
A 2010 6.0L in an E-Series isn't any different from a 2006/2007 6.0L from an F or E-Series.