2 days ago I went to take my son to work. I was in the truck, had just started it to get things to warm up. I hit the switch to unlock all the rest of the doors. When he tried to open the door it acted like it was still locked. I reached over and opened the door from the inside. Door opened just fine, but the lock stayed in the locked position.

At his work I tried to open it from outside. If I put the key in it and pull the outside handle, holding the key in the unlock position, it opens. However it forces the key back to the neutral position, with out positive pressure to hold in the unlocked state. The door will not open without holding it so, from the outside, or from the inside, it goes right back to the locked position.

I pulled the panel, and the actuator moves in both directions, but moves to locked on its own with no input from any of the switch or the FOB. Trying to pull the lock up manually, it won't move, it's like it is stuck. I don't see anything obviously wrong with the linkages, is the actuator bad, I've tried googling symptoms, and I've seen the threads on replacing the actuator. The actuator moves when commanded, other than manually. What should I be looking at now?

 

I think the actuator is bad internally with a short to ground from the symptoms you describe. If it was an external, wiring short to ground, it would likely not switch to unlocked momentarily like it is doing.

 

i had a similar issue, ended up being the little tab on the actuator that is supposed to lock it on the the latch assembly was broke off. so when the lock would move the whole actuator would also move and create a resistance so I couldn't lock my door w/o holding the key in place

 

OK, so the rod coming down to the actuator is slipping, The little metal bracket that secures the two rods together loosened up. I realigned the rods and tightened as best I could with the 2 little screws. I don't think it will hold for very long, I'm going to try to use a cable clamp to hold the two rods together better.

 

This is where it was slipping and wouldn't unlock
Cable clamp and tweaking rods to clearance the inner door
3/16 cable clamp

 

What the heck is that contraption? Someone installed aftermarket door locks instead of just replacing the OEM unit?

 

I guess, when ya'll said it might be the actuator, I looked them up. The ones I found look nothing like this. I'm just making due with what is there. Yes, it had me scratching my head for a minute. That's when I took a closer look to see what was wrong. It works, just don't look under the panel.