New Batteries for E350 6.0 PSD Van
#18
01-17-2018, 07:45 PM
Y2K,I used to think the same way as you,and there is nothing wrong with that mind set. But I guess I'm getting old or something,maybe cheap if you want to call it that. I think for what he's doing, the best bang for the buck is Wally World. Oh, and just to let you know,I think you are a wealth of information, I learned a lot tonight
,
,
It's our family camping rig. We take 1 8k mile trip per year and several shorter trips. It has 807,000 miles and still running strong. We use it for pleasure only.
The extra $300 for 2 Odyssey AGM batteries is probably worth it. The batteries are mounted on the frame rail. I use a hydraulic jack to remove the batteries. It takes a few hours to remove and reinstall.
Just to mix things up, I found the Sears Gold AGM Die Hard on sale for $128,53! Y2K, is the one made by Deka/East Penn?
$128. 53 Sears Diehard Gold.<br/>
#19
01-17-2018, 10:29 PM
#20
01-18-2018, 06:32 AM
Yes, the Sear DieHard Gold AGM battery is made by East Penn, and the Deka branded equivalent can be found in this pdf flyer, which is usefull for the specifications listed, which can be compared to the Sears specifications, which you will find will be the same.
This single page brochure is specifically on the Severe Service Group 65 Deka AGM Intimidator, intended for applications like Ford E-350 Ambulances:
http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com...Flyer-1534.pdf
And this six page full line brochure depicts all the Deka Intimidator AGM batteries, and provides a "helicopter view" of the USA manufacturing facility.
http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com...chure-1721.pdf
Like the product selectors and marketers at Sears, I believe the Odyssey Extreme is the better battery over the Deka Intimidator... as indicated by the Sears designations of Platinum as the highest, with Gold being a step down respectively. But, now that evidence exists that at least two of the wax and oil auto chains have moved to Johnson Controls to supply their so called "Platinum" AGM batteries, I would argue that the Sears Gold AGM (from Deka) is better than the wax and oil store's (Advanced Auto, Auto Zone) so called "Platinum".
#21
01-18-2018, 08:33 AM
My 4th backup battery is a Canadian tire deep cycle AGM that I bought on the road.
It's overkill. I have 2 teenage boys and my wife who run gadgets 24/7.
#22
01-18-2018, 08:46 AM
Coolfeet, I understood the vehicle you were working with, after following your signature link. I have an E-350 as well. Some of my 6 points were directed at you, because I knew that they would be of interest to you, and this is your thread.
Yes, the Sear DieHard Gold AGM battery is made by East Penn, and the Deka branded equivalent can be found in this pdf flyer, which is usefull for the specifications listed, which can be compared to the Sears specifications, which you will find will be the same.
Like the product selectors and marketers at Sears, I believe the Odyssey Extreme is the better battery over the Deka Intimidator... as indicated by the Sears designations of Platinum as the highest, with Gold being a step down respectively. But, now that evidence exists that at least two of the wax and oil auto chains have moved to Johnson Controls to supply their so-called "Platinum" AGM batteries, I would argue that the Sears Gold AGM (from Deka) is better than the wax and oil store's (Advanced Auto, Auto Zone) so called "Platinum".
Yes, the Sear DieHard Gold AGM battery is made by East Penn, and the Deka branded equivalent can be found in this pdf flyer, which is usefull for the specifications listed, which can be compared to the Sears specifications, which you will find will be the same.
Like the product selectors and marketers at Sears, I believe the Odyssey Extreme is the better battery over the Deka Intimidator... as indicated by the Sears designations of Platinum as the highest, with Gold being a step down respectively. But, now that evidence exists that at least two of the wax and oil auto chains have moved to Johnson Controls to supply their so-called "Platinum" AGM batteries, I would argue that the Sears Gold AGM (from Deka) is better than the wax and oil store's (Advanced Auto, Auto Zone) so called "Platinum".
Sears no longer carries the Platinum battery. Gold is the only AGM.
I normally buy "top shelf" products as I keep my toys for years. If I buy the Odyssey batteries, I will install the higher 140 amp Ford OEM alternator that's sitting on my shelf. It's from a dual alternator set up van that had 30K.
Similar to you, I don't want to go under my van for another 10 years to install batteries on the frame rail. Hopefully, in 10 years, I will own a rig that I can stand up in. My wife wants more ceiling space. She is tired of low crawling.
#24
01-18-2018, 10:44 AM
I have the OEM 140 AMP alternator from a dual alternator set up. It's been running with the 110 amp for 800,000 miles. The 180 amp alternator requires upgraded cables.
I want this battery and alternator upgrade to last 5-10 years.
#25
01-18-2018, 11:56 AM
(The question is asked in an effort to help identify the internal voltage regulator in the alternator you want to swap. The type of voltage regulator could potentially have an effect on system voltage during glow plug operation)
I doubt he was kidding. I have a 230 amp alternator, PLUS another 110 amp alternator, on one of my trucks. It isn't the maximum total amperage rating that some of us are necessarily after. The peak current production capacity of alternators is generally rated at the highest rpm, but we don't drive at the highest engine rpm all the time. Rather, what some of us are after is the amperage rating at idle and at engine speeds below 1,800 rpm. Since the truck that I have two alternators on is simply a work truck, it rarely does any long distance highway cruising. It mostly shuttles around within a 25 mile radius, and more often than not will operate within a 2 mile radius.
In order to get robust battery maintenance with such short trips, I was looking for an alternator that could produce 100 amps just off idle. The 110 amp alternator only produces 50 amps just off idle. Alternators that are capable of producing double the current at idle, are usually rated to produce double the current at peak rpm too, more or less. So it isn't necessarily the appeal of 180 amps per se... it is the appeal of what the 180 amp alternator can produce at less than half of the peak rpm it is rated at.
Have you had it for all 807,000 miles? Or was there a previous owner?
It could be argued that even the 110 amp alternator would benefit from upgraded cables, especially Ford cables that are 14 years old that had reliability problems with the transition from lead terminals (that began in 2002, to eliminate the hazards of lead exposure) to the flimsy terminals that have been found to disintegrate in 10 years time.
Pick one. 5 years? Or 10 years? It will make a difference in your cost and approach.
#26
01-18-2018, 12:02 PM
#28
01-18-2018, 01:13 PM
I don't see those getting talked about much...
Scott
#30
01-18-2018, 01:35 PM
(You must have been reading my mind)
What year and the engine was the donor van that the alternator came from?
(The question is asked in an effort to help identify the internal voltage regulator in the alternator you want to swap. The type of voltage regulator could potentially have an effect on system voltage during glow plug operation)
I have to find the part number for the alternator. The alternator is from a 2005. I checked the part number against White Bear Autonation part # for my van year and it was a match per the parts guy. I bought the alternator for $60 delivered. I was about to buy the Bosche 135 amp alternator online. After reading the reviews, I saw too many failures. 1 failure in 100 is too many for me. I read 40 reviews and saw at least 3 failed alternators.
Won't this remove the stealth aspect of your camping operations? As well as restrict your access to remote areas? Or, is it more like I said earlier... as we get older, we care less about some things and more about others. In your case, are you wanting to trade lo profile free boondocking in exchange for more camping comfort, even with nightly fees? Have you considered the SportMobile pop top? If you are on Expedition Portal, I'm sure you've seen these Westfalia like roofs for Ford E-Series vans.
The Sportsmobile pop top is my first choice for stealth. I don't like Sprinter or Transit high tops because I already run into branches with my solar and cargo box.
I doubt he was kidding. I have a 230 amp alternator, PLUS another 110 amp alternator, on one of my trucks. It isn't the maximum total amperage rating that some of us are necessarily after. The peak current production capacity of alternators is generally rated at the highest rpm, but we don't drive at the highest engine rpm all the time. Rather, what some of us are after is the amperage rating at idle and at engine speeds below 1,800 rpm. Since the truck that I have two alternators on is simply a work truck, it rarely does any long distance highway cruising. It mostly shuttles around within a 25 mile radius, and more often than not will operate within a 2 mile radius.
In order to get robust battery maintenance with such short trips, I was looking for an alternator that could produce 100 amps just off idle. The 110 amp alternator only produces 50 amps just off idle. Alternators that are capable of producing double the current at idle, are usually rated to produce double the current at peak rpm too, more or less. So it isn't necessarily the appeal of 180 amps per se... it is the appeal of what the 180 amp alternator can produce at less than half of the peak rpm it is rated at.
Jack (Too Many Toys) is running the Bosch 135 amp alternator with the smaller pulley and I think his idle voltage is over 14 volts. If I choose to go higher than 135 amps, I will go with DC Power.
Have you had it for all 807,000 miles? Or was there a previous owner?
I took over ownership at 777,777 miles. It was owned by an airport shuttle company out of Monterey California until 760,000 miles. It appeared well-maintained everything in the van was squeaky clean.
The second owner maintained like a gasoline van. Their loss, my gain (free). I called AAA to jump start it when I got it. Battery cable was broken. It was running off 1 battery!
I replaced the FICM because the voltages were low. Probably caused by the broken battery cable terminal.
New oil and EGR coolers (high EOT-ECT), new radiator ( 800k), new ball joints, new glow plugs (800k) and new tires at 800k. Routine maintenance. It drives great after dumping in some coin. Made to Alaska last summer.
It could be argued that even the 110 amp alternator would benefit from upgraded cables, especially Ford cables that are 14 years old that had reliability problems with the transition from lead terminals (that began in 2002, to eliminate the hazards of lead exposure) to the flimsy terminals that have been found to disintegrate in 10 years time.
I am adding new battery cables in addition to the existing cables. Not sure how to do this on the van. Should I have custom made cables and jump (parallel) from existing connection points?
Pick one. 5 years? Or 10 years? It will make a difference in your cost and approach.
What year and the engine was the donor van that the alternator came from?
(The question is asked in an effort to help identify the internal voltage regulator in the alternator you want to swap. The type of voltage regulator could potentially have an effect on system voltage during glow plug operation)
I have to find the part number for the alternator. The alternator is from a 2005. I checked the part number against White Bear Autonation part # for my van year and it was a match per the parts guy. I bought the alternator for $60 delivered. I was about to buy the Bosche 135 amp alternator online. After reading the reviews, I saw too many failures. 1 failure in 100 is too many for me. I read 40 reviews and saw at least 3 failed alternators.
Won't this remove the stealth aspect of your camping operations? As well as restrict your access to remote areas? Or, is it more like I said earlier... as we get older, we care less about some things and more about others. In your case, are you wanting to trade lo profile free boondocking in exchange for more camping comfort, even with nightly fees? Have you considered the SportMobile pop top? If you are on Expedition Portal, I'm sure you've seen these Westfalia like roofs for Ford E-Series vans.
The Sportsmobile pop top is my first choice for stealth. I don't like Sprinter or Transit high tops because I already run into branches with my solar and cargo box.
I doubt he was kidding. I have a 230 amp alternator, PLUS another 110 amp alternator, on one of my trucks. It isn't the maximum total amperage rating that some of us are necessarily after. The peak current production capacity of alternators is generally rated at the highest rpm, but we don't drive at the highest engine rpm all the time. Rather, what some of us are after is the amperage rating at idle and at engine speeds below 1,800 rpm. Since the truck that I have two alternators on is simply a work truck, it rarely does any long distance highway cruising. It mostly shuttles around within a 25 mile radius, and more often than not will operate within a 2 mile radius.
In order to get robust battery maintenance with such short trips, I was looking for an alternator that could produce 100 amps just off idle. The 110 amp alternator only produces 50 amps just off idle. Alternators that are capable of producing double the current at idle, are usually rated to produce double the current at peak rpm too, more or less. So it isn't necessarily the appeal of 180 amps per se... it is the appeal of what the 180 amp alternator can produce at less than half of the peak rpm it is rated at.
Jack (Too Many Toys) is running the Bosch 135 amp alternator with the smaller pulley and I think his idle voltage is over 14 volts. If I choose to go higher than 135 amps, I will go with DC Power.
Have you had it for all 807,000 miles? Or was there a previous owner?
I took over ownership at 777,777 miles. It was owned by an airport shuttle company out of Monterey California until 760,000 miles. It appeared well-maintained everything in the van was squeaky clean.
The second owner maintained like a gasoline van. Their loss, my gain (free). I called AAA to jump start it when I got it. Battery cable was broken. It was running off 1 battery!
I replaced the FICM because the voltages were low. Probably caused by the broken battery cable terminal.
New oil and EGR coolers (high EOT-ECT), new radiator ( 800k), new ball joints, new glow plugs (800k) and new tires at 800k. Routine maintenance. It drives great after dumping in some coin. Made to Alaska last summer.
It could be argued that even the 110 amp alternator would benefit from upgraded cables, especially Ford cables that are 14 years old that had reliability problems with the transition from lead terminals (that began in 2002, to eliminate the hazards of lead exposure) to the flimsy terminals that have been found to disintegrate in 10 years time.
I am adding new battery cables in addition to the existing cables. Not sure how to do this on the van. Should I have custom made cables and jump (parallel) from existing connection points?
Pick one. 5 years? Or 10 years? It will make a difference in your cost and approach.