Yep, it's been brought up about going around the engine. That lends credence (to me) of preventing more cooling of the block itself during cold weather.

The vains are throwing the air radially, so I don't see a specific direction for other cooling with the exception of towards the alternator. Maybe not.

PCM sure isn't getting any air tucked behind the battery and nothing here is helping that.

Air hitting the front of the motor or deflecting off the hood and loosing energy is getting the same to the FICM, so I just don't see much difference in the air cascading over the motor, stator or not while trying to escape the engine compartment.

The 90 degree turn of the air because of the stator will get more on the batteries, but not that big of a surface for them, especially when the pass batt is blanketed.

So those are my SWAGs with the only measurable thing I've seen stator on to stator off is basically oil temp ..... and lower mpg. So that's all my little brain can process.

Now there's tons of goofy things that are altered under the hood because of how temp effects them, just as how temperature effects noise insulators on brake pads, the shims on the back of pads. Stiffness, NVH, life expectancy, etc. All we can do not being in the design group for cooling or knowing someone who was is guess. At least with an oil thread you can compare an oil analysis.

I've seen an oil temp differential. I've seen a milage change. I may be the only one who ever has and ever will (after a dozen people go to prove me wrong), but I ain't moving off of this belief until a Ford engineer shows up with data. (Boy do I have an urge to do a 100 mile run to Cape May and back).

A page not of the actual data for the period of no stator, but how I used to track things during my trucks life in a spreadsheet and the effects on mpg.

 

Like you say, we can guess all we want... I will say for my time with the Dmax and a bunch of folks on a GM forum trying to figure out home-brew solutions, there was one fellow I even sent money to, who was doing things like tell tales underhood with video and temperature probes placed all over: it was actually surprising where air went you wouldn't think it would, and corresponding cool and hot spots that didn't make sense on casual observation.

Ford could come up with other ways to make the engine oil run hotter than air flow around the block -- wouldn't you think?

Underhood air flow - there's probably an engineering specialty just for it...

ok, enough of that, oh and thanks for teaching me how to fish

Scott

 

Yep, a whole lot of other ways.

I take it off, my oil is 2-4°F cooler in the winter, coolant half of that. I put it back on, it’s back to normal. And my mpg changes. That’s all I know. I’m a simple man.

 

I would like to add a few more things, just throw it in, in case some brains can "storm" it out.

The plastic covers the engine, obviously will have an impact on the engine's temperature. Whether the amount is significant or not, like other said, maybe Ford engineers may know.

What else I think is that the stator support the plastic shield around the fan, so air don't circulate back to the front of the fan, which I said before.
What else I just thought of is the plastic shield hot air from the engine from the fan's clutch. I read somewhere that some engine overheat because the clutch does not get the temperature it expects from the radiator. So any heat around it may throw it off and it would work differently.

Another thing that I would throw out if it sticks is whether a "relay chatter" effect is in play if the stator is off.

What I meant to say is that when the stator is off, the coolant thermostat regulates the coolant flow. But if the air cools the engine down, then even the right temp for the coolant, the engine is still keeps cooling down, forcing the thermostat to close up more. Will it be able to reach stability/equilibrium or it keeps expand/contract and making the valve fails prematurely or make the engine having small fluctuation in temperature.

I really don't know. I do know that taking all the stator and the fan shroud off would give lot of spaces.

TooManyToys, did you take both off (shroud and stator) or just stator since if just the stator, then what would hold the shroud?

 

This is one awesome alternator thread. Removing the stator is a game changer for tackling the task myself. The Ford book time is 5 hours. It takes me at least 2x for all my repairs because I may not have the correct tools, I have to Youtube a removal of this and that, and because I am only a shade tree mechanic.

My go-to Ford Mastertech says he usually is able to remove the serpentine belt without removing the stator. He will R&R the alternator for $150 (3 hours@$50/hour.)

I am contemplating installing the slightly used rebuilt Ford 140 amp or buying a new Bosche 135 amp alternator. When I found the rebuilt sticker on the Ford alternator, I got a little nervous. I bought the alternator from Diesel Redemption. I have bought many items from this eBay seller and my experience is always excellent. The owner Jeff said the alternator came out of a fleet maintained 6.0 van with about 30k miles. I paid about $45 for it. Cheap enough to keep around as a spare.

"WE ARE A LICENSED AUTO RECYCLER IN ILLINOIS OUR MAIN FOCUS IS POWERSTROKE ENGINES. WE GET DECOMMISSIONED 6.0 VEHICLES FROM MUNICIPALITIES ALL THE TIME THAT HAVE ALWAYS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED (USUALLY BY A FORD DEALERSHIP) AND ARE IN GREAT SHAPE."

 

Regarding stator off and temperature stability you're talking about a feedback system. Whether it reaches equilibrium depends on the loop control parameters, but all being mechanical I would guess that you would reach a steady state

 

Deleted!!!

 

On a Van ....... ?

 

Sorry!!!!!!!!! Wasn't thinking van!

 

They are infrequent here.