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Installing cab - best way?

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Old 01-09-2018, 01:13 PM
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That's an interesting idea - I have seat mounts that I could probably put eye-hole bolts on and attach the engine leveling attachment to
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Old 01-09-2018, 02:19 PM
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That's an interesting idea - I have seat mounts that I could probably put eye-hole bolts on and attach the engine leveling attachment to
Jerry, Just make sure your chains or straps are long enough so the load wants to stay upright- cab up. If the chains are short the load will be top heavy and want to tip over. I think the best way to do it as the others have said- using 4x4's across the roof. Hindsight is 20-20. That will be how I put mine back on.
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Old 01-09-2018, 02:59 PM
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Jerry, Just make sure your chains or straps are long enough so the load wants to stay upright- cab up. If the chains are short the load will be top heavy and want to tip over. I think the best way to do it as the others have said- using 4x4's across the roof. Hindsight is 20-20. That will be how I put mine back on.

I used adjustable ratchet straps so I could make front or back shorter or longer to keep the cab level. I'm not sure how much better or worse it is than the wood trick but I've seen both done on this site and I liked the idea of not having do buy wood and building something. i put the rag under just in case it started swing or something so it wouldn't ding my sweet paint job


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Old 01-09-2018, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jerry_s View Post
Just a couple of questions on the image that 56Panel uploaded:


The 4x4 under the two longer 4x4 beams are lag screwed together, the metal piece you see are 2" angle iron pieces on both side of the hoist beam. The pieces on top are there for 2 purposes #1 to help hold it together as a unit and #2 as a stop in case it were to slide . After the cab was in finish paint I used some old blankets to cushion and protect the paint.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:06 PM
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Here's a better picture from Nicholas' thread who took the time to improve on what I quickly did...lol But with the 4x4 with the angle iron pieces makes it quick and easy to remove or install on the hoist..
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by highdesert55 View Post
I used adjustable ratchet straps so I could make front or back shorter or longer to keep the cab level. I'm not sure how much better or worse it is than the wood trick but I've seen both done on this site and I liked the idea of not having do buy wood and building something. i put the rag under just in case it started swing or something so it wouldn't ding my sweet paint job


Both ways can get you there but better control lifting it high than slinging it low on chains and no risk of damaging anything. Wood is cheap ...
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:16 PM
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Some handy ideas here. Good to know that the floor (if in good shape) should handle the cab weight if one gets scared of paint damage.
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Old 01-11-2018, 11:10 PM
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One last followup as I want to build the four-by-four lift tomorrow. Where do I get those long threaded bolts and what length should I get?

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Old 01-12-2018, 09:25 AM
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any hardware store- called "all thread" and are cut to length
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:41 AM
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One point to make here...make sure that whatever design you choose that the "legs" will slide under the frame when you set the cab in position. This may mean that the frame will have to be lifted off the floor to give you enough clearance.
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Old 01-12-2018, 12:52 PM
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Not the best way, but something I could do myself. Lifted the cab up using the basketball pole and rolled the frame under. Iíll have to dig up the pictures of how I did the F100. Dennis






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Old 01-12-2018, 04:48 PM
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This is the way my wife and I did it. Four ratchet straps through eye bolts in the four corners of the cab. Each strap could be adjusted so cab balanced. Sorry no photos in the air as my wife balanced it as I moved the hoist so no one to take photos.
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