2000 6.8 No start
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 9
From: Central Florida
Guessing, but FPR?
You could have one other problem. When you replaced the FP did you do the whole assembly or just the pump? If just the pump, on top is a tube and it you don't have it seated or you had to mickey mouse the pump itself as it was not a direct drop in you will have problems.
Tell us what you did when you replaced it, pictures are better
You could have one other problem. When you replaced the FP did you do the whole assembly or just the pump? If just the pump, on top is a tube and it you don't have it seated or you had to mickey mouse the pump itself as it was not a direct drop in you will have problems.
Tell us what you did when you replaced it, pictures are better
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New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I bought the fuel pump as an assembly and installed it as such.I replaced it last weekend. I dropped the tank, disconnected the wiring harness, disconnected the fuel lines, pulled the old assembly out, popped the new one in until it snapped into the clips, tightened the lock ring back down, reattached the fuel lines and harness, and bolted the tank back on.
I did nothing to to the fuel pump itself, just stuck the new one in as is. About the only stupid thing that I can think of doing to have screwed that up, while it was pouring down rain and my herd of kids were hovering over me asking me any number of questions, is to switch the fuel lines. I don’t even think that would work though, and I will check that after work. Once it starts, which it always has now, it runs just fine.
The check valve makes sense to me, except for the part where it builds a little pressure before I start it. You would think it wouldn’t build any pressure.
I did nothing to to the fuel pump itself, just stuck the new one in as is. About the only stupid thing that I can think of doing to have screwed that up, while it was pouring down rain and my herd of kids were hovering over me asking me any number of questions, is to switch the fuel lines. I don’t even think that would work though, and I will check that after work. Once it starts, which it always has now, it runs just fine.
The check valve makes sense to me, except for the part where it builds a little pressure before I start it. You would think it wouldn’t build any pressure.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
1) pressure loss after motor shut off could be one or more faulty injectors, a bad fpr, or pump check valve.
If new pump came from autozone or the likes I would suspect it 50% of the time as faulty.
I recommend a walbro replacement pump and or assembly.
I recommend always replacing fuel filter and fpr when new pumps are installed.
I also recommend buying refurbished injectors.....they only cost about $100 for a set of 10.
If new pump came from autozone or the likes I would suspect it 50% of the time as faulty.
I recommend a walbro replacement pump and or assembly.
I recommend always replacing fuel filter and fpr when new pumps are installed.
I also recommend buying refurbished injectors.....they only cost about $100 for a set of 10.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
The Delphi pump came from NAPA and was stated as the actual mfg OEM. I assumed that they made the pump for motocraft and motocraft just put their sticker on it marked it up and called it theirs.
Regardless, to me it makes sense that the check valve is bad. That would allow for the fuel to flow back into the tank after the engine is shut off, although, I don’t think that explains why the pressure builds only slightly when it primes the lines.
I did change the fuel filter when I did the pump, so I guess I will do the FPR next, and if that doesn’t help, I’ll drop the tank again. I probably need to anyway to swap the pump again.
As for the FPR, I have not found a lot of information on it here in the forums. Where is it, and how much of a bear is it to change out? I suppose I’ll get a Haynes on my way home today.
Regardless, to me it makes sense that the check valve is bad. That would allow for the fuel to flow back into the tank after the engine is shut off, although, I don’t think that explains why the pressure builds only slightly when it primes the lines.
I did change the fuel filter when I did the pump, so I guess I will do the FPR next, and if that doesn’t help, I’ll drop the tank again. I probably need to anyway to swap the pump again.
As for the FPR, I have not found a lot of information on it here in the forums. Where is it, and how much of a bear is it to change out? I suppose I’ll get a Haynes on my way home today.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
It's a bear to get to. It is part of the fuel rail, and is on back side of motor.....where the fuel return and supply lines connet to fuel rail.
If I were doing it I would remove the 5 screws that hold fuel rail onto injectors, and disconnect fuel return and supply lines and pull fuel rail up and out.
this gives easier access to fpr snap ring and the plyers needed to wiggle fpr out of its seat.
can it be done on vehicle YES, I just would rather do it my way.
If I were doing it I would remove the 5 screws that hold fuel rail onto injectors, and disconnect fuel return and supply lines and pull fuel rail up and out.
this gives easier access to fpr snap ring and the plyers needed to wiggle fpr out of its seat.
can it be done on vehicle YES, I just would rather do it my way.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
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