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So here's the deal 8 months ago I crashed into a guard rail. I let insurance fix it and all was ok miner crash but I broke my steering box and bumper and such. I got the truck back and they had installed a redhead since my rig is lifted 8 inches with 37s. Also the pitman arm which looks different then the one I had it is strait down then turns only about an inch or so out. The old one was longer at the bend giving more leverage I think. At this point it just doesn't turn unless I am moving which is crazy because I thought the redhead would be better then stock. Any ideas why? Is it the pitman arm? Also I lost some fluid one day when driving and stoped flushed it and refilled obviously and it hasent happened again but if I over fill it it is better for some reason for a couple days. The lines are a little rubed on but can't see fluid leaking or spraying out.
When I had the same problem on my 02 with 35s, it ended up being the tires (no joke!) I replaced the BFG all terrains with Yokohamas and magically I could steer while parked yet again!
When I had the same problem on my 02 with 35s, it ended up being the tires (no joke!) I replaced the BFG all terrains with Yokohamas and magically I could steer while parked yet again!
That's crazy well mine started the day I drove it home from the shop that fixed it. they where hacks first after the crash the dual stabilizer was pushed way to one side and they dident notice and gave it back to me. I could turn 5 turns to the left and 2 to the right. And the body lines where all jacked So I took it back and 3 weeks later they got it to me but now like I said the steering is all ****ed. It was a one finger truck with the stock box to.
I had a situation after my wife's Nissan Armada got T-boned where the shop did fantastic body work, but they spliced the wire harness using butt connectors. After about a year we got a boatload of gremlins in the airbag system. I finally had to pull the interior apart myself and re-repair the spliced harness with solder and heat-shrink.
Hijack over.
I can't imagine the new Redhead causing the problem, maybe you can narrow it down by lifting the front end up off the ground then turning the wheel to see if there are any binds.
I had a situation after my wife's Nissan Armada got T-boned where the shop did fantastic body work, but they spliced the wire harness using butt connectors. After about a year we got a boatload of gremlins in the airbag system. I finally had to pull the interior apart myself and re-repair the spliced harness with solder and heat-shrink.
Hijack over.
I can't imagine the new Redhead causing the problem, maybe you can narrow it down by lifting the front end up off the ground then turning the wheel to see if there are any binds.
that's what I was thinking or many the pump is bad or the stabilizer is bent or some **** truck is killing me I got it a year ago and have replaced so many parts next is glow plug relay allready did glow plugs and the batteries and trans seal that's leaking like crazy
How are your front u joints? Seized or stiff u joints will also cause hard to steer and or not return to center issues.
I don't know I will have to jacket up take off the stabilizer and check it out it's just weird it happened after the crash after they fix it and like I said when I put tomuch fluid in the pump it works ok????? But over flows
As an experiment, what happens if you bump it into neutral and raise the rpm? does steering get easier while stationary?
I had a truck a few years ago and it was a bear to steer it while in a parking lot at low rpm unless you revved it up. I assumed that the pump was weak and needed an upgrade. I never did change it as that particular truck had a few other issues and I ended up selling it.
It is possible that your new Redhead just wants a bit more pressure than it is getting from a stock pump. If the revving changes anything then you will know.
Last edited by 73F700; Jan 5, 2018 at 08:20 PM.
Reason: spell check
I haven got to go out there yet it's raining and the batteries died from not driving it for 6 months so now when I do let it sit they die every night and I sent the wife to get me a new gpr. 16 bucks at auto zone 😎 Hopefully it's the right one looks the same but when I get her running I'll try it.
So after a long couple days.... to say the least I replaced the gpr and new set of batteries gave the reving the motor in neutral thing a try and no dice so it's not a low supply issue that can be solved by Rpms This came at the perfect time as I was driving to work in my little ranger and blew the rear end. Damn thing spun one tire backwards for a mile while I was trying to get over at 70 in heavy traffic **** my life.
So at this point I'm thinking....hoses new pump or take the truck back to the hacks that installed the gear box at Randy's off road. 😐 or it might be the damn stabilizers unfortunately I'm not sure that my floor jack will reach the axle to lift it haha I'll try to in hook the stabilizer first.
Next I have to drop the trans to replace the front seal that's leaking like crazy anytime I tow.
Since the steering system was apart, I wonder if there is an air bubble trapped in it? Not a common problem but there is some procedure turning lock to lock several times to work the air out.
I'm leaning towards the pump being shot. If you disconnect the hoses and go for a spin it probably will feel the same.
Since the steering system was apart, I wonder if there is an air bubble trapped in it? Not a common problem but there is some procedure turning lock to lock several times to work the air out.
I'm leaning towards the pump being shot. If you disconnect the hoses and go for a spin it probably will feel the same.
that's what's weird is that with it off the ground it moves ok but with it on the ground it seems to strait up stop. once driving it feels ok but doesn't return to center is there somthing to grease u joints? I think I will try to flush it posibly. There is a rub mark in the high pressure side and the gear box is soaked in fluid but like I said before there's no visible leaking?????